Anyone In Canada Carry Boyd's Walnut Stock (M305).

Yep I love Boyds.
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That space in the second pic is okay. Just press down on the trigger guard until it locks in. May take a bit of force though.

Do the hammer follow test afterwards
 
When you get M1a Boyd's stocks you need to get all of the stock metal. Plastic stocks don't have all of the parts to mount a wood stock to the gun.
 
Had the same thing with my M1 stock from Boyds and its a good thing. Its oversized so you can fit YOUR rifle to the stock. Lightly sand the area with a sanding block to keep things even until you can pop the trigger group in.
 
thedevnull said:
Thanks again Odd Shot. This looks/sounds exactly what I'll have to do for the trigger guard to successfully engaging into the receiver. I've taken a look a few times and there's no gap (when testing outside of the walnut stock) when the trigger guard locks into the receiver. I think if I forced it any harder, I'd bend metal ;)

I'll give it a few days before giving it a fresh look again and calmly making my fitting adjustments.
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how much of a gap is there when fitting the trigger group into the receiver while mounted to the original plastic stock?

The fit is meant to be quite tight. Like I said, mine was pretty tight too. Tight is good. When I first installed mine, it looked like your's in the second picture. I just kept pressing down firmly until it locked into place.
The wood will compress a bit under the pressure of the clamping force provided by the trigger guard when it's locked up.
 
thedevnull said:
I ended up just trying some light taps using a hammer/dead blow together to slightly compress the wood where the trigger house 'wings' rest. It did the trick, just enough to close up the trigger guard with some force for a snug fit:

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Gonna let things settle over night and run the sear test tomorrow. Any suggestions on how to match the original stain/finish would be appreciated.
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That's purdy!!!

I originally tried pure tung oil, but that stuff takes FOREVER to dry (still wet after 4-7 days).
Switched over to Circa 1850 Tung Oil which is pre-thinned with mineral spirits and I suspect also has chemical polymerization catalysts (metal "dryers") which dried overnight. Did 7 coats. Now waiting 1 month for the oil to cure (harden). Would suggest sanding/buffing with Circa 1850's extra fine "scotch pads" 24 hours after applying a coat, prior to applying the next coat
 
can14 said:
When you get M1a Boyd's stocks you need to get all of the stock metal. Plastic stocks don't have all of the parts to mount a wood stock to the gun.
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Oh?

Ok, what metal parts are missing from the Chinese plastic stocks?

And do I need every single metal piece, for the USGI fibreglass stocks, or does the Chinese plastic stocks have enough metal parts to use on USGI synthetic?
 
1) None
2) No just the rear metal butt plate unless you want to get the aftermarket butt pad. Also you will need to replace the wood screws for the machine screws. Check the stickies at the top of this form for more info.
RickR1100 said:
Oh?

Ok, what metal parts are missing from the Chinese plastic stocks?

And do I need every single metal piece, for the USGI fibreglass stocks, or does the Chinese plastic stocks have enough metal parts to use on USGI synthetic?
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Sorry for the late response, I forgot all about this thread. But yes, under the trigger group is where it needs sanding and lockup should be quite snug. As for the finish I have no idea what Boyds puts on them. On their site they say the put "one of Boyds superior finishes" whatever that means. Looking at your pics its probably a single stage finish and not stained. I would call or email Boyds, they should tell you since they know their stocks require fitting. My M1 stock was unfinished and I rubbed it with pure linseed oil for the best look and smell.

thedevnull said:
I take it that was around the trigger guard that you used a sanding block?
Another question for Yourself and Odd Shot, what products did you use to match the original Boyds stain/finish?

I'll likely sit down tonight to finish the fitting. I imagine some light sanding will be the amount of give needed to secure a minor latch and force it closed (hitting just a little too low atm to secure an initial latching/hook into the receiver, even with excessive pressure).
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