Anyone running 180gr Nosler Partition and IMR4320

GSoD

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If so, how much powder are you running?

I had the parts lying around so I thought I'd work up a load and see if anything catches.

I went to the Nosler site where they suggested throws of 40, 42 and 44 grains with 44 being the most accurate.

After I load up I check my Lyman 48 manual and it lists 42 grains as maximum load.

Obviously I'll be looking for pressure signs and the like as I go along. I just was wondering what everyone else is running grain wise to see if I'm in an ok ballpark as I wander up to 44grains.

Its running through a rem700p in .308 btw.
 
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GSoD it's brutal on here isn't it....so many smart asses it's sick..almost too much to bear...i wish i had the answer for you but unfortunately i don't..just that i feel your pain...hopefully somebody who isn't full of themselves stops by and offers you some assistance.
 
Start at 40 grains and work up in 1/2 grain increments.

Once you hit around 2600 fps or see pressure signs - whichever comes first - stop regardless what your final charge weight is.
 
You should be able to get a slightly warmer load in Winchester brass as it is lighter(more case capacity) than other makes.A Federal case weighs 175gr on average as compared to a WW case at 165 gr.
 
All outrageously helpful.

As were you, by using this term:



run·ning (rnng)
n.
1. The act or an instance of running.
2. The power or ability to run.
3. Sports The exercise or sport of someone who runs.
adj.
1. Ongoing over a period of time: a running conversation; a running joke among us.
2. Set in continuous or unbroken lines: running text.
3. Printed at the top or bottom of every page or every other page: a running title; a running footer.
adv.
In a consecutive way: four years running.
Idioms:
in the running
1. Entered as a contender in a competition.
2. Having the possibility of winning or placing well in a competition.
out of the running
1. Not entered as a contender in a competition.
2. Having no possibility of winning or placing well in a competition.


To describe both powder charges and the act of shooting...

Sorry if some of us got confused.:wave:


The short answer is- Consult several load manuals and work up slowly.
 
GSod...pay Gatehouse no mind...for a person who if he spent 2 mins writing each post...x 13,898 = 27,796 mins.../ 60 mins = 464 hrs /24 = 19.3 days just physically typing messages....and that's being very conservative...clearly has some issues and or no life...and this is not a personal attack before you start whining..it's simple math and it's me being as rude to you as you're being to GSod.
 
GSoD, back to your original question. Being a longtime reloader, I am always amazed at the modern method of reloading, whereby they want a listing for every make of bullet. For years, the loading charts never distinguished between makes of bullets, just their weights. In other words, the chart would show zz grains of xx powder for a 180 grain 30-06 bullet. They usually gave suggested starting loads and maximum loads, for each weight bullet.
What I have done throughout my entire loading career is to apply any 180 grain say, bullet, to a loading for my rifle, then use any make of bullet of the same weight, at the same charge.
I have loaded and shot Nosler partition bullets in several calibres. In every case I used a cheaper bullet to work up the load and do preliminary sighting, then use the Nosler bullets at the same charge. For example, a Speer pointed bullet looks much like a Nosler. So in my 270 I would use 150 grain Speer to get a load, then switch over to the Nosler bullets to load for hunting.
In all the times, in several different calibres, that I have done this, I have never detected the slightest difference in pressure between the different makes of bullets. Also, all my rifles are carefully bedded, they are therefore not particular about slight variations in powder charges, etc. When I sight in with Speer, say, then switch to Nosler, the sighting is usually exactly the same, or at most, requires a very slight adjustment.
I always work my loads up to quite a heavy, but certainly safe load, for the rifle I am using. I can not recall a single case of where a lighter load was more accurate than the heaviest load I ended up at. As I stated, the rifle must be properly bedded in order for them to work this way. And by the way, I do not have any rifle that has a free floating barrel!

Please note carefully. What I have stated is a bit of reloading history and an account of how I have done things. This should in no way be construed as me giving you, or anyone else, instructions on how to reload. My advice is to carefully follow the directions as given in your reloading manual(s).
 
Being a longtime reloader, I am always amazed at the modern method of reloading, whereby they want a listing for every make of bullet. For years, the loading charts never distinguished between makes of bullets, just their weights. In other words, the chart would show zz grains of xx powder for a 180 grain 30-06 bullet. They usually gave suggested starting loads and maximum loads, for each weight bullet.
What I have done throughout my entire loading career is to apply any 180 grain say, bullet, to a loading for my rifle, then use any make of bullet of the same weight, at the same charge


that can be done safely when using similar style bullets, and in 1955 when you were loading either Speer bullets or Nosler Partitions in your 30-06, you could get by with using the same data for either bullet. Try stuffing a 180 grain Nosler E-tip under the same powder charge grandpa used in his 30-06 with Speer soft points & IMR 4350. What was safe could likely now blow your primer right out of its pocket.

as always start low and work up slowly


PS, whatsknew, you're on pace to spend 2 days in the next year telling people what to do on the internet, good work! :)
 
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In case anyone is interested, they all shot without pressure signs through 44 grains.

At 43grains, three bullets grouped in .473" at 100 yards.

I'm going to load up a string of 10 and chrono to see if it repeats.

Thanks H4831 for the explanation about how things were. Very interesting.

I'll be keeping an eye out for Gatehouse and his liberal use of dictionary.com.
 
Tod, I am not doubting you, I wish I had a few of those bullets, just to see how high I could load them, before the high pressure signs showed up.
What makes them create the extra pressure?
The theory is that the bullet is in the barrel and sized, well before peak pressure is reached. This theory is touted by no less of an authority than Parker Ackley.
I have heard what you are saying before, and curious as to why it shoud be.
 
here's a hint

note bullet length/bearing surface, between 154 gr Hornady SP vs 150 gr Nosler E-Tip

Etip001.jpg


do you think it could raise chamber pressure, with the same powder charge?
 
GSod...pay Gatehouse no mind...for a person who if he spent 2 mins writing each post...x 13,898 = 27,796 mins.../ 60 mins = 464 hrs /24 = 19.3 days just physically typing messages....and that's being very conservative...clearly has some issues and or no life...and this is not a personal attack before you start whining..it's simple math and it's me being as rude to you as you're being to GSod.

Oh dear..DR Phil showed up....
:runaway:

Look, if the dude wanted .308 information, all he has to do is ask for it. If he wants to use some silly loading lingo like "I'm running this and running that" then he should be prepared for jokes at his expense...

You want info, just ask. Stop trying to pretend you are cool and talk about "running" this and that...Because if you actually *were* cool , you wouldn't even be asking this rudimentary question.:p
 
This theory is touted by no less of an authority than Parker Ackley.

Yes, back in the day when standard cup & core bullets were the norm.



Today however the differences between a C&C bullet and an all-copper Barnes or Nosler for example are enough ruin a rifle if like-weight bullets are randomly substituted without re-working the load. As "Tod" mentioned different bearing surface areas alone are enough to cause major pressure difference. Throw in different "hardnesses" of jacket and/or core materials and the problem grows worse. The only safe way is to start from scratch when any component in a load is changed.
 
Thanks guys, for the info. You will note from how I ended my thread though, that I was only giving historic data and how we used to do it.

This was the last of my story.

Please note carefully. What I have stated is a bit of reloading history and an account of how I have done things. This should in no way be construed as me giving you, or anyone else, instructions on how to reload. My advice is to carefully follow the directions as given in your reloading manual(s).
 
Oh dear..DR Phil showed up....
:runaway:

Look, if the dude wanted .308 information, all he has to do is ask for it. If he wants to use some silly loading lingo like "I'm running this and running that" then he should be prepared for jokes at his expense...

You want info, just ask. Stop trying to pretend you are cool and talk about "running" this and that...Because if you actually *were* cool , you wouldn't even be asking this rudimentary question.:p



i didn't detect a hint of "trying to be cool" in his original question..the "dude" was asking for .308 info...and i don't think it's a silly term at all..and now you're insulting his lack of knowledge, he's not cool because he wasn't sure about a certain load...you're a real class act and you almost cracked 14,000 posts!! now that's cool...
 
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