Apex FSS for M&P9

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Purple2

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I want to smooth out and lighten the trigger pull on my M&P9. I have put 500 rounds through the gun so far and I do not like how heavy and rough the trigger pull is. Unlike a lot of people, I have no problem with the reset (it is loud and tactile).

I see that people like the Apex forward set sear kits. I found one here, but I think that $300 is a crazy price for what it is (especially when the gun costs $580). Are there cheaper options available to improve the trigger?
 
With the CDN $500 export exemption happening these days, you may be able to cobble up the same kit via Brownels. Check it out.

Love the FSS installed on my pro, and ya I paid CTCS their ridiculous markup but had no choice at that time (either pay it or go without).

BTB - There is a UTUBE video out there that claims some careful parts polishing will achieve the same results?

M

Check this out!

h tp://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/trigger-group-parts/trigger-parts/triggers/red-flat-faced-forward-set-trigger-sku100017345-78083-164028.aspx?cm_mmc=Email-_-Spop-Email-_-lm_11812054-_-www_brownells_com_handgun_part&cm_lm=craigschultz@shaw.ca&cm_mmca1=BR_ProductAlerts_042015_ApexTrigger%20(1)&spMailingID=11812054&spUserID=Mjg4ODIwMzY2MjQS1&spJobID=483796437&spReportId=NDgzNzk2NDM3S0
 
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Can anybody recommend a gunsmith in Vancouver area that has experience installing these? I have one installed on my MP9 and about 5-10% of time I'm getting the dead trigger syndrome (trigger does not reset). Online search tells me trigger bar loop needs adjustment. The gunsmith who installed it tells me that it's normal due to lighter trigger reset spring, but I emailed Apex and they insist that it has nothing to do with the spring and the trigger bar loop adjustment will fix the problem. I'm not confident enough to try doing it myself. It's driving me crazy!
 
I ordered the FSS and aluminum trigger kit from Brownells and by the time I paid exchange, shipping and customs fees, it was about $280. So not a big savings over buying it here in Canada.

jermyzy, I did my own install and trigger bar adjustment. I was a little leery at first but I followed along with the Apex YouTube videos and it wasn't that bad. They have one specifically for trigger bar adjustment. There is really nothing you can mess up or break with the bar adjustment. It is simply using a flat screwdriver to bend the trigger bar loop a small amount to increase the gap at the end of the loop or using a small pliers to squeeze the loop a small amount to lessen the gap. I measured the gap in the trigger bar loop with a feeler gauge before I started any adjustments so if worse came to worse I could set it back to where it was. I had to open the gap up a little on mine and that was it. Just go easy and make small adjustments. You can do it.
 
^Thanks for the tip 686 Shooter. I might just give it a go myself. Is there any way to test to see if the loop is engaging properly after adjustment without live fire?
 
jermyzy said:
^Thanks for the tip 686 Shooter. I might just give it a go myself. Is there any way to test to see if the loop is engaging properly after adjustment without live fire?
Click to expand...

I just dry fired it, then racked the slide while still holding the trigger in, then let the trigger reset to mimic live firing as close as possible. Did this 10 or so times. After everything worked good doing that, I have had no issues with live firing.

Purple2 said:
I tried contacting irunguns a week ago through email to see if they can ship the polymer kit (below) to me. I hear that they are known for not responding to emails and calls. I might just leave it because it is not worth spending $315 + shipping on a $580 gun.
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This is an expensive upgrade. I installed mine in my Pro Series 40L CORE and I love the trigger now. I am probably going to install one in my 9 as well. I think it was well worth the money, but that's me personally. Heck, I've spent $300 on a lot stupider things.
 
You can do a trigger job yourself - simply take it apart, use very fine sandpaper (start with 1500), and then polish (I use Flitz). To take the grit out of the take-up, polish the trigger bar 'nob' (the part that lifts the striker block), and polish the striker block. To lighten and improve the let off polish the sear (top and rear - lightly, do not remove metal) and the striker extension (the part of the striker that catches on the sear). Again, in all of this you're looking to polish, NOT remove metal - surfaces should end up shiney, they should be the same size and shape. The whole thing takes about 30 minutes and costs maybe $10.
 
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Haha. Could you imagine how boring it would be if there were only 1911's? What would shooters jab each other about?

Thank God for 9 vs. 45, steel vs. polymer, and M&P vs. Glock. :runaway:

M&P's are the better choice of course..................... :nest:
 
Purple2 said:
I want to smooth out and lighten the trigger pull on my M&P9. I have put 500 rounds through the gun so far and I do not like how heavy and rough the trigger pull is. Unlike a lot of people, I have no problem with the reset (it is loud and tactile).

I see that people like the Apex forward set sear kits. I found one here, but I think that $300 is a crazy price for what it is (especially when the gun costs $580). Are there cheaper options available to improve the trigger?[/QUOT

Just buy an Apex trigger return spring and their USB and you have 95% of the trigger job done. Most of the `gritty feeling you get when you slowly pull the trigger is the striker block being pushed aside to allow the gun to fire.

Take care

Bob
Click to expand...
 
Phat Eagle said:
I admit it, I'm an unabashed M&P baiter... I love my S&W revolvers, but I still remember the Sigma train wreck. I just can't understand how S&W hasn't been able to design a functional semi trigger in the past 25 years!
Click to expand...

It's all good fun - right? I've never owned a Glock, but I've considered it on more then one occasion and I'm sure they are excellent pistols - judging by their popularity anyway. I've had my M&P40 since 2007/2008ish and it has
served me beyond reproach. The only flaw, or complaint, that I have ever had has always been the trigger ( and I'm sure many will agree with that sentiment ). My M&P40 came out of the box with a 5.5 lb trigger pull which is
quite acceptable. My biggest problem is the over-travel and general grittiness of the trigger - although a 3 - 4 lb trigger would be ideal in my books. Once those issues are dealt with, then the M&P is easily one of the premier
polymer pistols on the market. It really is a very well designed, beautifully balanced handgun.
 
358BLR - Let the Queen breath. Install the Apex Competition Kit in your gun ( you don't need the FFS trigger kit) and you will have a nice 3.5# trigger pull with little to no over travel. If you just want to go budget buy the Apex USB and their trigger return spring and you will have most of what your complaint is covered. S&W sells the guns for under $400 to police agencies in the main. We plinkers and sports shooters playing IDPA and IPSC make up next to nothing in the grand scheme of things relative to the volumes Smith sells to agencies. None of what we want in the M&P is of much interest to the Blue Shield crowd.

Take Care

Bob
 
The plastic trigger felt spongy to me from day one. The APEX metal trigger alleviated that syndrome for me even without the FSS.
The FSS really made it shine.

The full FSS kit is my recommendation.


M
 
Canuck44, you nailed it with respect to S&W catering to their most lucrative market segment - they're in the biz to make money and they know exactly where that money is.
I have been looking into the various Apex kits and it all gets a little confusing to say the least. But as it stands now, given the age of my M&P, it looks like the "sear housing block"
in my pistol will have the 1/16 inch sear return spring and from what I can tell most Apex kits require a "sear housing block" that can accommodate 1/8 inch sear return spring -
which from everything I've read is not in an M&P as old as mine. Brownell's carries replacement "sear housing blocks" for only $30 US, but they can't tell me if it will accept a 1/8 inch
sear return spring. I got the impression from the tech I talked to at Brownell's that they get a lot if inquires about their M&P "sear housing Blocks, as he thought it was something that
Apex should be willing to supply for their customers. And I have to agree. :)

All of that said, you seem to be very knowledgeable about this whole Apex/M&P business, so if it isn't too much trouble maybe you can point me in the right direction. I'll detail what
I'd like to end up with and hopefully you can tell me what kind of Apex kit will work for me. If you can do that, I'd be extremely grateful and I'd advise you to get a job as Apex's
Canadian representative. ;)

What I'd like to do:
- Clean up the grittiness
- reduce the over-travel
- reduce the trigger pull to 3.5 lbs (+/- 0.5 lbs)
- get a more tactile trigger reset.

I hope this isn't too much trouble.
Rob
 
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