Apex Tactical DCAEK & RAM for S&W M&P

T

Topdollar

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Just installed one of these kits plus the reset assist mechanism (RAM) into an M&P Pro 9mm I picked up on the exchange and thought I'd share my findings.

Impressed would be an understatement. Apparently the PRO's have a better stock trigger pull than the stock M&P's but I did not have anything to reference. I found the trigger pull on mine to be quite gritty and spongy.

I think the biggest difference was the new striker block (they call it the USB). Goodby gritt. Then the new sear, RAM, etc. went in. While the pre-travel was still there (as expected - think APEX offers a different kit for this), the trigger pull seems much more consistant and with the RAM, you get a nice - tangible- reset feel.

Highly recommend for anyone with an M&P. I'm a novice when it comes to this kind of work, but it all went together quite easy watching the videos on Youtube. Hardest part was getting the rear sight off the slide to install the new sear block and spring. All that said, it probably only took about an hour and for anyone proficient, I'd say less than half that.
 
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How did you remove your rear sight? Did you require a special tool for that. Also, can you list the Apex part numbers that you used for this conversion. I'm very interested in doing this to an M&P that I haven't even fired or tried the trigger on yet. Also where did you order your Apex kit from? Thanks.
 
armorman said:
How did you remove your rear sight? Did you require a special tool for that. Also, can you list the Apex part numbers that you used for this conversion. I'm very interested in doing this to an M&P that I haven't even fired or tried the trigger on yet. Also where did you order your Apex kit from? Thanks.
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I got everything from Brownells. Don't believe the rules let me hotlink, but if you go there and search for Apex Duty/Carry kit and RAM you should get what you need. Two seperate kits.

You'll need a 1/8 roll pin punch to, well, remove the roll pins. Highly recommend getting the proper punch - keeps those pins from getting smushed. Again, got it from Brownells.

I just used a brass drift punch and a gunsmithing hammer to remove the rear sight. There's a very small hex screw (1/16th) that needs to come off and then it just goes left to right. I used a small carpentry vice that had rubber grips to hold the slide while I whacked away. I tried using electric tape to keep the amount of brass transfer down, but it only worked so-so. I think a bit of solvent will take it right off and as long as you use brass or plastic (something softer than steel) you should be fine. I'm no expert - first time I've done it - but it was pretty simple. Check out the Apex vids on Youtube; walks you right through it.

Good luck!
 
My Apex Competition Kit installed on my M&P PRO brought the trigger pull down to a very smooth sub 3#'s with a much faster reset. My 5" PRO came with a relatively smooth +5# trigger. The parts replacement are legal for IDPA SSP Division but not for IPSC Production.

The gritty trigger you deel on the stock M&P's comes from the striker block. The PRO comes with a slightly more rounded striker block while the APEX striker block is dome shaped which really does make the trigger smooth as glass.

Take Care

Bob
 
armorman said:
How did you remove your rear sight? Did you require a special tool for that. Also, can you list the Apex part numbers that you used for this conversion. I'm very interested in doing this to an M&P that I haven't even fired or tried the trigger on yet. Also where did you order your Apex kit from? Thanks.
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Here you go:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=41314/Product/S-W-M-P-ACTION-ENHANCEMENT-COMPONENTS

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=42321/Product/RAM-S-W-M-P-RESET-ASSIST-MECHANISM


I wonder if the RAM causes any excessive wear on the trigger bar.
 
Topdollar or Canuck44... either of you interested in getting rid of the trigger innards from your Pro since you upgraded to the APEX parts?? I may be interested...
 
I removed my rear sight by using a brass drift and hammer, and lightly clamping my slide in a vice with wood blocks. It takes a fair bit of force to move the rear sight to the right and off. The brass marks came off the rear sight easily with a bit of solvent and a rag.

See my post about the DIY trigger job. You can easily modify the striker block yourself using a drill, some fine sandpaper or stone, and some scotchbrite pad.

mp001.jpg
 
h-rev said:
When you're installing back the rear sight, how do you know that it is sitting in the correct spot? Thanks
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Use a China marker, Wite-Out, or something similar to make a witness mark on the slide and rear sight before removing the rear sight.
 
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