Applying Tru-oil over the current finish ??
- Thread starter FPSAirgun
- Start date
I read somewhere about using a toothbruish to clean out checkering. Maybe with a little (or diluted) chemical stripper. Likewise for applying the oil finish. Should keep the area from clogging up.
Use furniture stripper....... And a toothbrush and light steel wool to clean it all off.... Wear rubber gloves, you will need them....
Then start your tru-oil process on the bare stock...... If you have black powder handy, rub a little into the checkering before you try-oil.... Makes a nice touch....
Then start your tru-oil process on the bare stock...... If you have black powder handy, rub a little into the checkering before you try-oil.... Makes a nice touch....
This is everything you ever wanted to know
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=275
R
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=275
R
Excellent. Bookmarked for reference. Thanks
- Location
- Calgary, Alberta
Nice Cooey Superbrad! I have one with checkering I'm planning on re-doing eventually. I'm getting more motivated from this thread. Also thanks for the great resource link ronnie01! Looks like I got some reading to do.
Since we're sharing projects though....
Norinco M305 with Italian walnut, finished in Tru-Oil (The picture doesn't do it justice. It's a gloss finish with the wood glowing and
shimmering with an iridescence):
Norinco M305 with Boyd's walnut stock, finished in Circa 1850 Tung Oil (satin finish):
Remington 597 Laminate stock finished in Tru-Oil (gloss finish)
Norinco M305 with Italian walnut, finished in Tru-Oil (The picture doesn't do it justice. It's a gloss finish with the wood glowing and
shimmering with an iridescence):
Norinco M305 with Boyd's walnut stock, finished in Circa 1850 Tung Oil (satin finish):
Remington 597 Laminate stock finished in Tru-Oil (gloss finish)
- Location
- Calgary, Alberta
Odd Shot I think you might be showing off. So thank you!! Very nice projects. Got any more??
Yep, thats what I do as well. If using paint stripper, use a toothbrush on the checkering to remove the old finish. When ready to sand, tape off the checkering as OddShot described. When the new finish is totally complete, remove the tape from the checkering, apply tape to the newly finished area and apply the finish to the checkering area with a toothbrush.
I have not read all 4 pages of this post, but my 2cents, Why are you doing this?
A new gun, Steam will not work on this stock.
If you are wondering about rain , just give it a coat of oil, if none soak in the stock is sealed.
If you don't like the look,give it a couple of coats over the original finish.
I you want to strip the checkering, use old tooth brushes to clean the stripper /old finish out.
If you sand the checkering, it will look like hell, then you will have to take up checkering /recutting.
You can not steam out checkering that is cut , and that is what you have
A new gun, Steam will not work on this stock.
If you are wondering about rain , just give it a coat of oil, if none soak in the stock is sealed.
If you don't like the look,give it a couple of coats over the original finish.
I you want to strip the checkering, use old tooth brushes to clean the stripper /old finish out.
If you sand the checkering, it will look like hell, then you will have to take up checkering /recutting.
You can not steam out checkering that is cut , and that is what you have
You would understand if you read all 4 pages.... or one page, if you change your settings you would be on page one......
I had to put my plans on ice as my boss had other ideas for me this week - and this weekend. Next week he has me doing backflips too, but stay tuned because this project is going to happen and it's either going to be really great - or really funny.
I appreciate all the input, I'll post some pics once I get started.
I appreciate all the input, I'll post some pics once I get started.
sand the old finish off lightly, don't get carried away and start sanding into the original wood. Use a Water base stain the same color of your wood. Oil base stain Hides the natural look of the wood, & Water base Enhances it. Guitars are all done this way. It really makes the grain Stand out.
If you just True-oil over an aged or dull finish ,..your end result will be Blurred.
Be smart when sanding...Follow THE Grain. Never kriss-cross or you'll have a checker board finish.
Apply the True oil 1 coat at a time. Once in the morning and 1 at night.
After you get 6 coats on..wet sand the stock with 1000 grit WET sand paper till all the little nibs are flush.
Apply 4 more coats then wet sand with 1500 Wet sand paper.
Then use Automotive Cutting & polishing compound. Then rub down with car wax. It will look like GLASS !!
Here is a few stocks I colored and oiled using this method
Very nice work
I got started on this today.
Before.
Supplies total cost about 70$, the gel was the costliest item at about 30$ the tru oil was about 15$. There were cheaper options than the gel but I decided it would be easiest to work with indoors.
You're supposed to apply the gel and let it soak for " enough time" The fore stock lost its color almost immediately, but the butt stock never lost its color despite the fact I let it soak in the gel longer ( about two hours then I buffed it off with a coarse sponge)
I sanded it all a bit with the (*edit) *600sandpaper, it doesn't seem to do much but I might work with it a bit more. The two parts are different color now and it looks pretty stupid, I put some coffee on the fore stock with a rag to try and even it out - but it didn't do do much and I'm afraid to keep soaking it in because the wood might crack. I'm debating if I need to go get some stain for the fore stock, also I'm wondering if I've removed enough of the old finish on both or do I need to sand more or even go back to the solvent..
Any thoughts? If I didn't care about the colour difference does the wood look ready enough to apply the tru oil?
Before.
Supplies total cost about 70$, the gel was the costliest item at about 30$ the tru oil was about 15$. There were cheaper options than the gel but I decided it would be easiest to work with indoors.
You're supposed to apply the gel and let it soak for " enough time" The fore stock lost its color almost immediately, but the butt stock never lost its color despite the fact I let it soak in the gel longer ( about two hours then I buffed it off with a coarse sponge)
I sanded it all a bit with the (*edit) *600sandpaper, it doesn't seem to do much but I might work with it a bit more. The two parts are different color now and it looks pretty stupid, I put some coffee on the fore stock with a rag to try and even it out - but it didn't do do much and I'm afraid to keep soaking it in because the wood might crack. I'm debating if I need to go get some stain for the fore stock, also I'm wondering if I've removed enough of the old finish on both or do I need to sand more or even go back to the solvent..
Any thoughts? If I didn't care about the colour difference does the wood look ready enough to apply the tru oil?
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I just picked up some minwax polyurethane gloss from Rona. Looked up some threads on that and think it looks good too. Some people say it will turn yellow tinted with time though.
