Applying Tru-oil over the current finish ??

I've done a few Tru Oil finishes, my last one here: http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/1260584-Ruger-44-Carbine-Refinish

Post 24 in that thread describes how I applied it. Always used my fingers, coats got thinner as I went higher in numbers, and I wet sanded with water in between coats after the 4th coat. I didn't worry too much about any imperfections as I knew I would knock them down on my final coats by lots of slow sanding using 2000 grit. I find with Tru Oil, you need to work fast as you don;t want to start rubbing on the oil that is starting to dry or it clumps it.


Very nice job and thanks for the info. If you have time could you please elaborate on this comment

The final coat I diluted the Tru-oil with mineral spirits and put on a very thin coat - let that dry for 12 days and then I polished out any finger streaks from that final coat.

I'm wondering what ratio of dilution, and what method you used to polish. I can see how diluting would make the final coat easier, after a while I found the viscosity of the tru oil changed, making it thicker and harder to apply evenly, I started a new bottle and the problem went away. After trying every conceivable method of application, foam brushes, paint brushes, cloth, finger, I've finally found the best method for me seems to be coffee filters, I'm using one filter to apply liberally to the whole stock, then I take a dry filter, place it flat in the palm of my hand, and wipe from one end of the wood to the other in a long smooth stroke. If I crumple up the filter the ridges will leave streaks, so I leave it flat and apply even pressure, that way there is no one point that digs in deeper than others and leave fine lines on the surface. After each application I'm wiping nearly all of the oil off to the point where really all I have done is moisten the whole surface evenly with the oil.

I lost count at some point but I'm around 25 coats in, I've abandoned the steel wool, I do three or four very thin coats and then a light wet sanding, the look and consistency improve with every cycle. It still doesn't look like the pictures you posted with the very high reflective finish but that's ok, I like the way it looks currently, I'm just trying to work out the last imperfections now and then I'm ready to polish and wax.

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Just layed another coat of tru oil, wet the whole thing down with the oil, then slicked it off with a dry coffee filter, whole process took thirty seconds, the faster the work the better the results.
 
Final update, I'm all done with this thing and I'm very happy with the way it turned out. In the end I was able to match the colours by giving the stock ma few more treatments than the fore end. Total about 30 to 35 coats.

Thanks to all who took the time to offer all the great advise and expertise - it's not professional grade like some of your work but I'm very happy with it and couldn't have done it without you.




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sand the old finish off lightly, don't get carried away and start sanding into the original wood. Use a Water base stain the same color of your wood. Oil base stain Hides the natural look of the wood, & Water base Enhances it. Guitars are all done this way. It really makes the grain Stand out.
If you just True-oil over an aged or dull finish ,..your end result will be Blurred.
Be smart when sanding...Follow THE Grain. Never kriss-cross or you'll have a checker board finish.
Apply the True oil 1 coat at a time. Once in the morning and 1 at night.
After you get 6 coats on..wet sand the stock with 1000 grit WET sand paper till all the little nibs are flush.
Apply 4 more coats then wet sand with 1500 Wet sand paper.
Then use Automotive Cutting & polishing compound. Then rub down with car wax. It will look like GLASS !!
Here is a few stocks I colored and oiled using this method

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Love the look of those, great job.
 
When I was doing this, to work on stocks with thru holes, I would turn wood sticks to make handles , or you could try old broom handles.
makes it so much handier, when drying , I would clamp in vice till next coat. I used a fair bit of tung oil, takes longer to dry than truoil
 
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