Aquafortis ferric nitrate iron nitrate, oh my.

I don't see why it would not work and appears to be a lot cheaper and probably much easier to obtain than concentrated nitric acid. Re dissolving iron into nitric acid --- acids need to be somewhat dilute, in order to ionize; I haven't tried it but suspect that concentrated nitric (in excess of 95%) would only marginally dissolve steel wool. As I wrote earlier, 30% nitric will very actively dissolve steel wool

cheers mooncoon
 
I believe standard concentrated nitric acid tops out at about 68 - 70%. When the concentration exceeds 86%, it is known as fuming nitric acid and is really dangerous stuff. If you are not a Chemist, you don't want to be anywhere near it.
 
Have not read through all the posts to see what folks have recommended for a ferric nitrate solution using crystals.
I mix my solution at a 1:5 ratio by volume of crystals to distilled water and it works just as well as the commercial products. I see no reason to make a more concentrated solution. For a darker blush, one can apply a second coat or, better yet, apply a pre-wash of tannic acid. Always test on scrap from the stock or in an inlet, such as the BBL channel, first.
 
With apologies to any who were looking forward to my being able to provide Aqua Fortis from the carboy of strong nitric acid stored in a friends warehouse, I checked on it on Monday and found that some kind soul became aware of the risks of using it and decided to find other means to passivate large quantities of small welded stainless steel fabricated parts. The whole quantity was donated to an eco centre, unopened.
 
B_noser said:
Have not read through all the posts to see what folks have recommended for a ferric nitrate solution using crystals.
I mix my solution at a 1:5 ratio by volume of crystals to distilled water and it works just as well as the commercial products. I see no reason to make a more concentrated solution. For a darker blush, one can apply a second coat or, better yet, apply a pre-wash of tannic acid. Always test on scrap from the stock or in an inlet, such as the BBL channel, first.
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Great advice on the inlet tests, but the rest of the post confuses me. You posit why bother making a stronger solution, because you can just add multiple coats, or use another product to darken the stock wood...but, neither a 2nd coat, nor would another product be necessary if you just proofed up the original ferric nitrate solution.

I'm also to understand from Jim Kibler that all the inletting on OG stocks weren't finished, and that one should be cautious doing so as the finish will corrode steel and iron if it isn't completely neutralized.
 
Painkillers said:
I'm also to understand from Jim Kibler that all the inletting on OG stocks weren't finished, and that one should be cautious doing so as the finish will corrode steel and iron if it isn't completely neutralized.
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You don't need to neutralize the crystal solution ... no acid to neutralize, one of the big reasons I use them. I finish my channels, inlets etc. just a choice .. does seal up the stock though - if you plan on getting it wet - cleaning can get water under the barrel if not careful.... or even if you are careful for that matter.

multiple coats? I never really saw much improvement with additional application/heat cycles - it's kind of "you get what you get" once the tannins have reacted to the ferric nitrate - aka bonded with the iron they will not react again. unless there are still unbonded tannins left....

then again I mix my solution till the water will not dissolve any more of the crystals ... soo probably on the strong side.
 
Painkillers said:
Great advice on the inlet tests, but the rest of the post confuses me. You posit why bother making a stronger solution, because you can just add multiple coats, or use another product to darken the stock wood...but, neither a 2nd coat, nor would another product be necessary if you just proofed up the original ferric nitrate solution.

I'm also to understand from Jim Kibler that all the inletting on OG stocks weren't finished, and that one should be cautious doing so as the finish will corrode steel and iron if it isn't completely neutralized.
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If you mix a stronger solution, you run the risk of making the stock darker than you wanted. The objective is generally not to make the stock as dark as possible. The objective is to create a certain hue and, in most cases, enhance contrast in the grain - ie. curl. When adding color or shading to the wood, it is generally prudent to start on the light side and build up the color or shading, as needed, to achieve the desired effect. A stock can often be darkened by applying a wash with tannic acid after the first blush with ferric nitrate and then applying a second coat of ferric nitrate and reblushing. Experimentation is the key to success. Different sticks of wood can, and will, react differently to the same coloring treatment.

Ferric nitrate is not a finish. It is a coloring agent that reacts with the tannins in the wood. Ferric nitrate crystals are not acidic and will not attack steel. If a person wants to be extra cautious they can neutralize with baking soda in water or, better yet, washing soda in water.
 
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what I have not seen mentioned is the need to use heat to bring the colour out. After wiping on the ferric nitrate onto the sanded stock, the colour is sort of like washed out coca cola. I used to hold the stock over the large element on the kitchen stove, with the element on high, and keep the wood moving. The colour changes to a dark brown with a hint of red although the red disappears within days. More recently, I have been using a heat gun to bring out the dark colour. I usually give the stock a very light sanding afterwards to remove any fine lifting of the grain

cheers mooncoon
 
I've received an email from Kibler yesterday that my kit is ready to ship. I'm like a kid with a dollar in his pocket, turned loose in a candy store. I don't know whether to giggle or sh1t. :LOL:
 
Time to read up on how the originals were finished. As I recall, the Kiblers are stocked in black walnut whereas the originals were stocked in English walnut. Dave Person aka SmartDog on the American Longrifles site gave good information on how to make black walnut look more like English walnut. I recall it involving the application of a yellow stain to produce a warmer tone. Dave is a Guru on the subject and his work is outstanding.
Enjoy the ride
 
B_noser said:
Time to read up on how the originals were finished. As I recall, the Kiblers are stocked in black walnut whereas the originals were stocked in English walnut. Dave Person aka SmartDog on the American Longrifles site gave good information on how to make black walnut look more like English walnut. I recall it involving the application of a yellow stain to produce a warmer tone. Dave is a Guru on the subject and his work is outstanding.
Enjoy the ride
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This rifle will be stocked in Maple (sugar or red) and is classed as "fancy maple". A $225 upgrade to standard maple which I'm told will already have curl in it, so I'm hopeful the upgrade has secured a remarkable piece of wood.
I've opted to brown the barrel, rather than blued or leaving it in it's traditional "white".
 
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