AR-15 Grease ?? what's a good kind..

skinnadoor

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Aside from using CLP:dancingbanana:, what is a good type of grease to use on the AR15, and where exactly are the points on the rifle i apply it... ?:)

Can i use a generic auto grease of a certain type ???
 
Why are you/do you want to use grease? CLP is a lubricant, and my preferred one for AR's at that.
 
He wants to use grease because it's the best thing to use.

High temp lithium wheel bearing grease from crappy tire = gtg.

Apply anywhere there is metal on metal contact...except the bolt face.
 
He wants to use grease because it's the best thing to use.

High temp lithium wheel bearing grease from crappy tire = gtg.

Apply anywhere there is metal on metal contact...except the bolt face.


the white lithium grease i use on my M14, and i did get it from crappy tire....

I need the DO's and DO - NOT'S for grease points but more importantly i need to know what spots to apply it on ......

Can you put it on the Lugs of the bolt where it locks into the chamber???? I would be iffy about putting grease on that pare of the bolt...
 
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i've been using militec gun grease, mainly because its free. but have gone back to clp.
 
Being that AR15's are tight fitting, I will assume never using grease, Its gonna be thicker and well will collect the carbon much faster and gum it up faster. I know when I was issued my brand new C7A2 out of the box there was the packing grease still on it and had only 20mins to clean it off before we headed to the range. So it was a quick wipe though, pull through and then 200rds. It fired but the grease collected the carbon much faster and the rifle was getting sticky.

Also more dirtier then usual. Smoked like crazy too.. After we fired most of the rifles were smoking for about 5mins after.

Also I would advise *NOT* to put any oil, grease etc on the actual bolt. Outside the bolt carrier but not on the bolt. ANY gas effected parts, Keep it dry from oil.

Grease/Oil on the bolt inside the chamber will create higher pressure and run a risk of a KB.


Extreme cold I was told to use a pencil. Rub it all over the carrier and rails... Will act like a dry lube.
 
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On the C7s there was what appeared to be dried up white lithium (lubriplate, or you can buy a small tub from Cdn tire much cheaper) located in some of the spring and detents, like for the change lever and the rear takedown pin. These tended to gum up. Remember that guys did things that you wouldn't do to your AR like take them into the hot shower, use the carwash on them, or dunk them into the mystery solvent bath.
It was no big deal to get at these items. You have to remove the pistol grip and the buttstock to get them out. Quite often you would see where the users would bend the little spring in between the body and the butt, a sure sign that they had gone further than they were supposed to when they were cleaning their rifle.
A weapons tech could pipe in at this point to confirm what type of grease, if any, was supposed to be in these spots.
 
Also I would advise *NOT* to put any oil, grease etc on the actual bolt. Outside the bolt carrier but not on the bolt. ANY gas effected parts, Keep it dry from oil.

QUOTE]


What about the lug's themselve's, that go around the face of the bolt, and lock into the chamber?? When i was in the reserves i would put CLP over everything except the bolt face.......Should i keep that portion dry ??? Hrmmmm, Can't seem to remember my cleaning regime of my C7 back in the day.



:eek:
 
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Also I would advise *NOT* to put any oil, grease etc on the actual bolt. Outside the bolt carrier but not on the bolt. ANY gas effected parts, Keep it dry from oil.

QUOTE]


What about the lug's themselve's, that go around the face of the bolt, and lock into the chamber?? When i was in the reserves i would put CLP over everything except the bolt face.......Should i keep that portion dry ??? Hrmmmm, Can't seem to remember my cleaning regime of my C7 back in the day.



:eek:

Wasn't till I took small arms coaching I found out that a Dirty/Wet chamber will increase the chamber pressure over 30,000 PSi more.
 
yeah but ive found using TW25 on the back of the bolt, not the face or lugs actually keeps carbon build up down... How would this area increase chamber pressure? I dont see how it could.
 
The lubricants could be acting like a seal around these parts. With direct impingement blowing gas right into that area, it's quite possible that this is happening. That being said, I've always soaked everything but the bolt face with oil myself. :eek:
 
Grease is not recommended by manufacturers on any parts on the AR.
I have yet to see a manual - be Colt- Armalite - Bushmaster - that say to use grease..
Same on the M16 platform and GI cleaning instruction of the rifle..
 
Packing grease and lubricating grease are two different things.

Who cares what the manual says? I'm gonna go with experience. mine and others.

Grease the charging handle track, the carrier, the bolt (except the face) and the trigger mech.

Anyone who recommends oil, clp, ect hasn't fired 1500 rds in a day using fat mags.


Below is from getoffthex

Lubrication:

People tend to OVER lubricate their handguns and UNDER lubricate their rifles.

* NEVER put lube in a magazine or in a firing pin channel.

* ALWAYS lube handguns EXACTLY as the manufacturer recommends.

* ARs do NOT need to be “dripping” to run. In fact it could be harmful.

Oil is adequate (although we don’t recommend it) for the range but for offensive or defensive weapons we use and recommend a high temperature lithium based grease. We use grease on all of our weapons. You can buy the fancy ones in the syringe or just go to AutoZone and buy the tub of high temperature lithium wheel bearing grease at a much better value. We also recommend grease for weapons that go unused for long periods. Oil will drip off, dry up or soak in over time. A THIN coat of grease will be there indefinitely.

In our High Risk Civilian Contractor courses we abuse rifles, primarily ARs, with rigorous drills. Several times a day, each day of class, the students will do drills where they expend 6-8 mags quickly. As you know this gets the guns red hot. Each student shoots about 4k rifle rounds and 1k pistol rounds in this 5 day course. As a class they will expend on average from 50k-65k rounds. This amount of volume combined with the rapid paced drills that have the students shooting 200+ rounds in a single string of fire allow us to really see what works and what doesn’t. The students that turned their noses up at the wheel bearing grease on Monday are reaching for it on Tuesday. We have found NO lubricant, at any price, which meets or exceeds high temperature lithium wheel bearing grease for keeping Fighting Rifles in the fight.

There are no "magic" lubes. High temperature lithium wheel bearing grease and motor oil works as good as anything and is cheap. I have bad news for the guys that buy “special” gun lubes in little bottles and syringes – there are no special refineries for gun lubricants. There are no guys in white lab coats designing lubes just for guns. Every lube on the market has one thing in common – they weren’t designed for guns. If motor oil and wheel bearing grease will keep a car from detonating driving 80mph do you REALLY thing they won't lubricate your gun? I know it goes against most folk’s delicate sensibilities to put automotive lubricants on their guns because you can get a lifetime supply for $5 but trust me on this one. More than once my car's dipstick has become a field expedient lubrication point because no other lube was available. I know this all sounds barbaric and uncivilized but it does work…and I am uncivilized. 

Three tests to see if your gun lubrication method works:

Test #1 - Lube your gun properly with your lubricant of choice. Take a training class where 750+ rounds are fired in the course of the day. If your gun needs to be relubricated before the training day your lubricant isn’t as good as the $5 a gallon high temperature lithium wheel bearing grease.

Test #2 - After the class concludes you should properly clean and lubricate your gun. Put it away or carry it for a month and then take it out and look at it. If it is dry because the lube leaked out or dried up you need a new lubricant. You can find the oil in the bottom of your holster and grease at AutoZone.

Test #3 - Look at your AR (assuming it is lubricated) right now and if it has oil on the outside around all of the pin holes you need a new lubricant. Yours is so thin it has seeped out and it not protecting your gun anymore. You can find the oil in the bottom of your safe or in your rifle case and grease at AutoZone.

---------------------------------------------

This is my bolt after a three day Pat Rogers Carbine class with NO cleaning and NO lubrication after the class began. It was about 1100 rounds (+/-). The $2.86 a tub high temp lithium wheel bearing grease from Wal-Mart worked like a charm...again. You can see it is pretty dirty but is still "wet" even with all of the rounds fired.

SLR-15Bolt.jpg


This is where your oil goes...it runs out of the gun:

ARwithoil001.jpg
 
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Excellent pics........ very nice explanation.... That bolt looks pretty coated i must say. Never seen an AR one with grease on it before. :)
 
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Grease sounds like a great idea till you carry an AR in the desert. Grease and CLP pick up dust but with CLP the bolt wipes clean quick with a rag. Running ARs wet allows for quick 1-2 minute functional cleaning and that is all they need to keep them running.

From what I have seen grease turns to clay and you need solvent to get it out of the bolt and receiver recesses.
 
Skinnadoor, I used to get my grease (and coveralls, and Kodiacs, and raingear and….) from DEVCO. Just joking, I thought you might find that east coast humor funny! All I use is Lucas Gun Oil that I buy from a local automotive store (Russel Hawkins w w w.autosence.ca). It works great, seems to be attracted to heat which is a good thing, is cheap and lasts along time and is easily wiped off for cleaning. It does however look suspiciously like transmission fluid. Lucas also has a line of grease that looks just like, and has the same viscosity, as Brian Enos’ “Slide Glide”, it also works very well. My $0.02
 
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