AR-15 Grease ?? what's a good kind..

Ya know, I would REALLY like to hear what our KevinB to say on this topic.

I've used grease, and I've used specialty gun oils. On an AR, I have to say I prefer the oil, especially for ease of cleaning.
 
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i use graphite lubricant it can be found in the keys section of your local big box hardware store works like a charm in cold temperature. In the sumer i use light oil or clp
 
Grease does not attract dirt. Dirt simply sticks to grease(or anything wet for that matter). Desert conditions are bad for any system with any lubricant. The benefits of grease(high temp stuff) is the ability to remain in place under high heat. Oils run, leak, or burn off. A dry AR even a clean one does not run. A wet and/or dirty AR will run.

Grease for the win...

TDC
 
TDC said:
Grease does not attract dirt. Dirt simply sticks to grease(or anything wet for that matter). Desert conditions are bad for any system with any lubricant. The benefits of grease(high temp stuff) is the ability to remain in place under high heat. Oils run, leak, or burn off. A dry AR even a clean one does not run. A wet and/or dirty AR will run.

Grease for the win...

TDC
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Never had any problems with my AR15 platforms in the desert.....
 
I have never every had a problem using only CLP. If you have a properly built AR you too will also not have any issues, and grease is not needed.

I've read about people having stoppages and FTF's the whole nine, and then they used grease and like magic their AR never crapped out once. Sounds like they have a POS rifle to me
 
Graphite and Aluminum do not play nice together. Although anodizing protects the aluminum from being corroded when graphite comes into contact with it, I'd recommend a graphite-free grease (if you absolutely have to use grease).
 
Gunnerlove said:
Grease sounds like a great idea till you carry an AR in the desert. Grease and CLP pick up dust but with CLP the bolt wipes clean quick with a rag. Running ARs wet allows for quick 1-2 minute functional cleaning and that is all they need to keep them running.

From what I have seen grease turns to clay and you need solvent to get it out of the bolt and receiver recesses.
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your right..theres some pretty serious desert like conditions in Southern Ontario these days... I find the sand intollerable when Im out herding my camels on the way to the well...:rolleyes:
 
Brentn said:
I have never every had a problem using only CLP. If you have a properly built AR you too will also not have any issues, and grease is not needed.

I've read about people having stoppages and FTF's the whole nine, and then they used grease and like magic their AR never crapped out once. Sounds like they have a POS rifle to me
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That's the problem with factory Colt's, RRA, Stag, Bushmaster....they are crap guns that need to be babied.

Very few problems occur with a 5 rd mag and slow fire off a bench.
 
AR and Lubrication

So, It seems as I read these threads that there is not much info on the way to achieve satisfactory Lube.

I have a brand new Armalite, and I use oil. I dont remember seeing any particular Lubricant Preferred, in the Manual that cane with this rifle.

So, >> if there is a trained professional or Armalite Rep. I would appreciate
knowing the proper technique of lubricatng this metal..
 
juliet lima said:
That's the problem with factory Colt's, RRA, Stag, Bushmaster....they are crap guns that need to be babied.

Very few problems occur with a 5 rd mag and slow fire off a bench.
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No problems here rapid fire, 10 round magazines in quick succession going through sometimes 5-8 magazines in less than a minute. CLP only

Its not just 5 rounds and slow fire off a bench that makes my rifle work fine with CLP :rolleyes:
 
I'll stick CLP/SLIP2000/Mobil1. I've never had a problem with any of them, and my guns work just fine. Mobil1 is my fav because a lifetime supply cost $8. The owners manual calls for CLP.
 
Heh.. I used to use mobil 1 mixed with dextron III atf and stp oil treatment. Made a great gun oil. I still use it on my shotguns
 
No grease in my AR either. As I live Canada and its cold up here. I use a light oil in winter heavier in summer.

Yes an AR will run dry!!!
 
Graphite and rapid fire are bad. if you fire fast enough for the graphite to heat up to a lubricating temperature, breaking the bonds between the 'sheets', you will also cause the graphite to align 90 deg to the source of heat and when the rifle cools the graph will solidify once more and may seize your bolt closed. also graph has little to no water displacing properties so as the rifle cools the water condensing on the metal will soon freeze, and you have a seized rifle. not a problem on the range doing deliberate fire, big problem if you are burning through 200+ Rds in a few min. Motor oil works well but ATF seems to breakdown after a short while. my guess is that it is due to the additives or it's just the liberal red colour.
 
I use clp/motor oil specially in the desert. very thin layer and i had zero problems. I am pretty sure grease in the desert may not be as effective. Just like RobertMcC has stated previously.
 
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Grease=Bad why? well it freezes and it atracts and hold in dirt
Graphite=Bad why? well it work for abit but builds up and acts like carbon
CLP=Good
 
I give my bolt and charging handle a wipe of 10w30,the FCG gets a drip for each part after cleaning.

All in all,motor oil works just as good if not better than any high-priced oil i've ever used
 
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