I just got into the ar-15, with all the talk around here I decided to get one ,I got a DA556 nato 20 inch, before I even fired it I got a upper from a cgn here on the forum its a NEA upper with a 10.5 barrel, I installed it on my DA lower all is fine I change the stock for a imi defense sopmod stock came with its buffer tube, spring and buffer, again no problem installing, so today I go to the range and the stupid thing will not feed I am firering by pulling the charging handle every rounds should got a bolt action lol,I know its probably nothing major buy help would be very helpful,i use 2 diff type of magazines and I am using good ammo Remington nothing surplus, but it will not feed, can anybody help I am useless in the AR department, thanks.
ar-15 problem
- Thread starter docryan61
- Start date
The problem almost certainly is the NEA upper. I had the same problem and I promptly hucked it on the EE for cheap with a full disclosure of problems. Washed my hands an never ever EVER got another NEA product. (I’ve had 3 NEA products, all had issues and many parts just diddnt fit. Too far out of spec)
I am a stage 3 fully deranged animal when it comes to NEA I will be the first to admit.
-Yes definitely check your buffer weight though, especially being a short barrel
NEA facts, not derangement. They make garbage.
If he put the original rifle length buffer and spring into the new carbine length tube he would not even be able to pull the charging handle back far enough to manually cycle rounds through the rifle.
Since he as no problem manually cycling rounds through the rifle it's looking like the NEA derangement syndrome is still plausible
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Also, OP, if rounds will strip from the magazine and chamber while manually cycling the rifle with the charging handle you DON'T have a feeding issue. You have a function issue.
Perhaps, as eatredmeat157 suggested, you should check your buffer weight.
Perhaps, as eatredmeat157 suggested, you should check your buffer weight.
What BCG are you using, is the gas block on straight, does it shoot with the (higher quality) 20inch upper on it, will it feed from lock (if you put a mag in, and hit the bolt release, does it work?) - lots of possibilities, but I'd try to run it with the 20 inch upper first. If it functions well with the 20 inch on the lower, we know it's a problem in the short upper, if not we're looking at buffers and springs, and feed paths.
Yup this
If start with the other upper then if that upper is fine then I'd be looking at the gas block is on straight and from there then look at the buffer weight.
Is your rifle oiled enough??
I'm a little late to the party here and hopefully you found a solution. If not, what set up do you have for a gas block and handguard? Had a similar issue on my first built that came down to using a drop in handguard and a low profile style gas block. The handguard cap being installed means the gas port no longer lines up. I now try not to get too excited buying parts and actually read the specs.
So you rack a round into the chamber and it fires and ejects but doesn't strip a fresh round? Going to need a lot more detail to troubleshoot it without seeing the rifle.
It won't cycle with either upper or just the NEA upper?
It came with a rifle stock (A2 style)???
Free float handguard? remove the upper from the lower and remove the bolt carrier group, plug the chamber with a dummy round or something and blow into the muzzle with an air hose, you should be able to hear the air coming from the gas tube inside the receiver, sometimes the gas block gets put on crooked which blocks the gasses, or a gas block from a non free floated handguard is used with a floated handguard (front sight type cut off) and the gas block sits too far back putting the port out of alignment. If this is the case a shim can be made or you can just slide the gas block towards the muzzle a little and re -tighten it. This can go either way, barrel with gas block saddle cut for a front sight type gas block or barrel cut for a low profile gas block are slightly different. Gas blocks are slightly different between the two so there are a lot of variables to work out which is very hard without more detail or being able to see the parts being used.
If it passes the above then put the old stock back on and try it with the 20 inch upper. If that works fine then try it with the NEA upper, if that works fine the problem is the buffer/spring combination with the new stock.
If it quits as soon as you put the NEA upper on you've found the problem. Even if the NEA upper is the problem it can probably be corrected or at least sent back for warranty if it is a complete NEA upper and not pieced together from various parts.
Can you post some pictures of the stocks and buffers and springs? There is a difference between a rifle buffer and spring compared to a carbine buffer and spring and they are not cross compatible.
It won't cycle with either upper or just the NEA upper?
It came with a rifle stock (A2 style)???
Free float handguard? remove the upper from the lower and remove the bolt carrier group, plug the chamber with a dummy round or something and blow into the muzzle with an air hose, you should be able to hear the air coming from the gas tube inside the receiver, sometimes the gas block gets put on crooked which blocks the gasses, or a gas block from a non free floated handguard is used with a floated handguard (front sight type cut off) and the gas block sits too far back putting the port out of alignment. If this is the case a shim can be made or you can just slide the gas block towards the muzzle a little and re -tighten it. This can go either way, barrel with gas block saddle cut for a front sight type gas block or barrel cut for a low profile gas block are slightly different. Gas blocks are slightly different between the two so there are a lot of variables to work out which is very hard without more detail or being able to see the parts being used.
If it passes the above then put the old stock back on and try it with the 20 inch upper. If that works fine then try it with the NEA upper, if that works fine the problem is the buffer/spring combination with the new stock.
If it quits as soon as you put the NEA upper on you've found the problem. Even if the NEA upper is the problem it can probably be corrected or at least sent back for warranty if it is a complete NEA upper and not pieced together from various parts.
Can you post some pictures of the stocks and buffers and springs? There is a difference between a rifle buffer and spring compared to a carbine buffer and spring and they are not cross compatible.
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Is all the hate for earlier gen NEA stuff or late model ? . Last fall I bought a 18.5 nea upper and bcg and put it on a bush master lower . I was quite pleased with accuracy , cerekote treatment . prob 1200 rounds now of AE223 and not one hiccup.
Not every NEA/BCL is bad, when you get a Wednesday rifle you're probably getting a decent rifle but they are so hit and miss with quality you just never know what you're buying.
I have an NEA upper/lower and they work great and I haven't had any problems with parts from other manufacturers fitting but not everyone has been as lucky.
New or old doesn't seem to matter.
I'd be leaning towards the buffer and spring combo like others have stated. Hopefully your buffer is just a standard buffer (3oz or 85grams) for a carbine/M4. The shorter barrel doesnt usually allow enough gas to recycle, thus no cycling of the bolt assembly.
Well, at least thats my 2 cents on the problem
Cheers,
Russ
Well, at least thats my 2 cents on the problem
Cheers,
Russ
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This is completely wrong and doesn't make any sense.
Well it does if you think of it in terms of back pressure of the gas. The bullet is leaving the end of the barrel very shortly after passing the entrance to the gas tube. So it hasnt had much time to build up the pressure behind the bullet thus creating less pressure back down the gas tube.
There was an article I read on Brownells tech site about a very similar problem.
There was an article I read on Brownells tech site about a very similar problem.
You will have a much shorter dwell time compared to a longer barrel and your bolt will unlock earlier while there is still more pressure inside of your fired case, which is expanded against the chamber. Your extractor has to work harder but your carbine will cycle fine. You don't magically lose so much gas that it won't cycle. 5" and shorter barrels aren't practical but they exist and work.
