AR barrel nuts and hand guards

jonnyboy1014

jonnyboy1014

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Hello.

I have a question or two about AR barrel nuts.

I was told free floating is the way to go from the guy at my LGS, why?

Iv'e read about torquing the nut, and looking at hand guards you buy, most come with their own proprietary nut, do these all generally use the same ft.lbs inch./lbs? Or is it manufacturer specific? If so, what is the general amount?

Any recommendations on a paticular brand? I was thinking this one from seekins at CTCS
https://ctcsupplies.ca/seekins-precision-sp3r-v3-m-lok-rail/

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
Free floating equates to less exterior forces on the barrel which equates to a more repeatable shot.
Unless you’re running a fixed front sight post like an A2, I don’t even think there are other options aside from free floating.

Torque ratings are typically within a range and are used across the board. Never heard of a company saying you must torque to 36.657 ft/lbs or your pecker will fall off.
Typically it ranges between 30-50ft/lbs

Brand wise, simple google searches will tell you what’s worth the money and what to avoid. Never used seekins but I’d regard them as a well made component.
 
FoxAlpha said:
Free floating equates to less exterior forces on the barrel which equates to a more repeatable shot.
Unless you’re running a fixed front sight post like an A2, I don’t even think there are other options aside from free floating.

Torque ratings are typically within a range and are used across the board. Never heard of a company saying you must torque to 36.657 ft/lbs or your pecker will fall off.
Typically it ranges between 30-50ft/lbs

Brand wise, simple google searches will tell you what’s worth the money and what to avoid. Never used seekins but I’d regard them as a well made component.
Click to expand...

Awesome! Thank you for the reply.
 
jonnyboy1014 said:
What's the difference in price?

Also what's the deal with "timed" hand guards?
Click to expand...

FF handguards vary in price as they vary in quality. You get what you pay for. Although a decent FF handguard can be found for around $200.

A timed handguard means the barrel nut must be indexed or "timed" to either gas tube, the handguard or both. Some handguards use a simple round barrel nut that only needs appropriate torque. Other styles use a barrel nut that uses shims or other bits to index/time the barrel nut for proper alignment.
 
Free floating a barrel reduces or virtually eliminates the effect of putting stuff on your handguard or loading it up on a barricade has on your barrel and how it affects any poi change. Its relation to accuracy is that the barrel is unaffected by the different loading around the the rifle/carbine.

As for the rest I don't have much to add here that hasn't already been added.

As a fyi Free floating a mediocore barrel will still net mediocore results. Your rifles inherent accuracy comes mainly from barrel quality. It needs to be mixed with good ammo and good optics. And you need to do your part. So don't expect free floating to magically make your gun substantially better shooting if it wasn't shooting good to begin with.
 
r34skyline said:
Free floating a barrel reduces or virtually eliminates the effect of putting stuff on your handguard or loading it up on a barricade has on your barrel and how it affects any poi change. Its relation to accuracy is that the barrel is unaffected by the different loading around the the rifle/carbine.

As for the rest I don't have much to add here that hasn't already been added.

As a fyi Free floating a mediocore barrel will still net mediocore results. Your rifles inherent accuracy comes mainly from barrel quality. It needs to be mixed with good ammo and good optics. And you need to do your part. So don't expect free floating to magically make your gun substantially better shooting if it wasn't shooting good to begin with.
Click to expand...

Finally, someone else who understands.
 
Yycbulletsandbrass said:
FF handguards vary in price as they vary in quality. You get what you pay for. Although a decent FF handguard can be found for around $200.

A timed handguard means the barrel nut must be indexed or "timed" to either gas tube, the handguard or both. Some handguards use a simple round barrel nut that only needs appropriate torque. Other styles use a barrel nut that uses shims or other bits to index/time the barrel nut for proper alignment.
Click to expand...

ahh ok.

Most quality hand guards iv'e found are around the $300-$350 range. I have a 16" barrel and was thinking either a 15" or a 13" hand guard, I'm leaning towards the 15" for more rail-estate, but the 13" would offer less weight. I'm torn

As for which brand I've decided between geissle or bcm.

Thoughts?



r34skyline said:
Free floating a barrel reduces or virtually eliminates the effect of putting stuff on your handguard or loading it up on a barricade has on your barrel and how it affects any poi change. Its relation to accuracy is that the barrel is unaffected by the different loading around the the rifle/carbine.

As for the rest I don't have much to add here that hasn't already been added.

As a fyi Free floating a mediocore barrel will still net mediocore results. Your rifles inherent accuracy comes mainly from barrel quality. It needs to be mixed with good ammo and good optics. And you need to do your part. So don't expect free floating to magically make your gun substantially better shooting if it wasn't shooting good to begin with.
Click to expand...

My barrel is a standard colt chrome lined with a 1:7 twist, I will be using standard 62gr ammo with a red dot.
 
jonnyboy1014 said:
ahh ok.

Most quality hand guards iv'e found are around the $300-$350 range. I have a 16" barrel and was thinking either a 15" or a 13" hand guard, I'm leaning towards the 15" for more rail-estate, but the 13" would offer less weight. I'm torn

As for which brand I've decided between geissle or bcm.

Thoughts?





My barrel is a standard colt chrome lined with a 1:7 twist, I will be using standard 62gr ammo with a red dot.
Click to expand...

Between the geissele and the bcm the geisselle will be heavier but tougher. The bcm will be lighter but not quite as duty tough as a geissele.

For a 16 inch barrel you will be using either carbine or midlength I would definitely recommend the 13 inch rail. Maybe even the 11 inch if they have one.
 
lower cost free floating hand guards and I admit only tried 2 they are poor quality, never tried a quality one but ended up getting a cheap non floating from China, its just a round tube that threads over a external threaded barrel nut, it is supplied as a pair, thread the barrel nut on to correct torque and thread the tube on the nut, totally solid and best part the tube could be cut down to any length, all for $25.00 us
 
jonnyboy1014 said:
ahh ok.

Most quality hand guards iv'e found are around the $300-$350 range. I have a 16" barrel and was thinking either a 15" or a 13" hand guard, I'm leaning towards the 15" for more rail-estate, but the 13" would offer less weight. I'm torn

As for which brand I've decided between geissle or bcm.

Thoughts?





My barrel is a standard colt chrome lined with a 1:7 twist, I will be using standard 62gr ammo with a red dot.
Click to expand...

I think r34skyline has it right. A shorter handguard like the 13" or less would offer you lots of rail estate and even less weight than the longer one. I'm a fan of lighter is better and I try not to bash my gear, so a super robust rail isn't needed for my uses. Personal choice in the end, but either rail will work just fine.
 
laurencen said:
lower cost free floating hand guards and I admit only tried 2 they are poor quality, never tried a quality one but ended up getting a cheap non floating from China, its just a round tube that threads over a external threaded barrel nut, it is supplied as a pair, thread the barrel nut on to correct torque and thread the tube on the nut, totally solid and best part the tube could be cut down to any length, all for $25.00 us
Click to expand...

Thank you for the suggestion but I would really rather not lol
 
r34skyline said:
As a fyi Free floating a mediocore barrel will still net mediocore results. Your rifles inherent accuracy comes mainly from barrel quality. It needs to be mixed with good ammo and good optics. And you need to do your part. So don't expect free floating to magically make your gun substantially better shooting if it wasn't shooting good to begin with.
Click to expand...

This really is the best piece of information you’ll receive regarding this. For a lot of us guys who’ve been shooting a while this is just common knowledge but it’s absolutely 100% truth and should be recognized by every one. No trinket or part exists that will make you, the shooter, any better than you were before.

jonnyboy1014 said:
ahh ok.

Most quality hand guards iv'e found are around the $300-$350 range. I have a 16" barrel and was thinking either a 15" or a 13" hand guard, I'm leaning towards the 15" for more rail-estate, but the 13" would offer less weight. I'm torn

As for which brand I've decided between geissle or bcm.

Thoughts
Click to expand...

I own and run a geissele MK8 as well as 2 BCM KMR’s and can attest to both models’ robustness and quality.
I’m regarda to your original question, both barrel nuts simply need to be torqued in place no need to worry about timing.
Either choices would suit you well, and while they may be on the pricey side of rails, they will last you a long time.
Buy once cry once.

In my opinion, rail length vs barrel length is purely subjective to your personal preference. There’s no “wrong way” or “proper way” as it’s largely a matter of cosmetics. The weight difference between a 13” or a 15” rail is marginal at best unless you’re counting every ounce.
My 13” MK8 sits overtop a 14.5” barrel and my 15” KMR sits atop a 16” barrel as that’s just my preference. I’ll see if I can dig up some photos of them for your own reference and see what you prefer visually.
 
FoxAlpha said:
This really is the best piece of information you’ll receive regarding this. For a lot of us guys who’ve been shooting a while this is just common knowledge but it’s absolutely 100% truth and should be recognized by every one. No trinket or part exists that will make you, the shooter, any better than you were before.



I own and run a geissele MK8 as well as 2 BCM KMR’s and can attest to both models’ robustness and quality.
I’m regarda to your original question, both barrel nuts simply need to be torqued in place no need to worry about timing.
Either choices would suit you well, and while they may be on the pricey side of rails, they will last you a long time.
Buy once cry once.

In my opinion, rail length vs barrel length is purely subjective to your personal preference. There’s no “wrong way” or “proper way” as it’s largely a matter of cosmetics. The weight difference between a 13” or a 15” rail is marginal at best unless you’re counting every ounce.
My 13” MK8 sits overtop a 14.5” barrel and my 15” KMR sits atop a 16” barrel as that’s just my preference. I’ll see if I can dig up some photos of them for your own reference and see what you prefer visually.
Click to expand...

I would greatly appreciate that.
 
16” barrel with 15” BCM KMR

dP1oD8B.jpg



14.5” barrel with a 13” Geissele MK8

qoaD5yG.jpg
 
FoxAlpha said:
16” barrel with 15” BCM KMR

dP1oD8B.jpg



14.5” barrel with a 13” Geissele MK8

qoaD5yG.jpg
Click to expand...

Not to go off topic but is that the nightforce nx8?

And I agree with foxalpha. The length is more personal choice with some incremental performance benefits. Pick what you like. The only real rule of thumb i use for handguards is to not leave the gas block exposed. I obviously choose the shorter style of handguards if it were my call. I will leave it up to you. But both the bcm and geissele hg are good choices. Pick the one that tickles your fancy more.
 
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