AR Jam, need help

D

Doumbogey

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Hi,

I have a Stag Arms AR-15 with a 10.5'' barrel and i'm having jaming issue.

Here is the situation:

The first problem apear after +- 200 first rounds then after every 10 rounds, the shell fail to eject and a new round try to go in with the empty shell ending up with two rounds jam togetter(one empty and one new).

I did clean the bolt assy properly and lub it, and still get the same problem after 80 round, then each 10 round....

I tryed apling lots of lube, i tryed with a verry small amount of lube and i even tryed with ball bearing grease... The worst case was with grease, jam after 40 rounds....
I'm using miltec lube.

Is there anything i should do to solve this problem, i'm kinda new with AR so i need to lern.

Thanks for your help guys and please forget my bad english writing as it is not my first language...

Dom
 
Your English is fine, but I don't know enough to properly diagnose this from the description.

For an intermittent failure to eject on a shorty, a new viton o-ring around the extractor spring will often help and is decent SOP for shorties anyway. If you want to go that route drop us a line and we'll get one out to you.

I echo the questions above on ammo, and with that, what buffer?

Is this a factory gun? All Stag? I ask as there are no Stag Arms 10.5, but we have a couple of 10.3" varieties out there. I realize the difference is not apparent.
 
Push in on your ejector with a punch or screwdriver. If it does not spring back you may have some carbon build up on your ejector spring.
 
I tryed with 3 different mag, and i still get the problem,

THe ammo i used is american eagle that i buy at my local club.

And the riffle is stock and it can be 10.3'' barrel.

I have read on the net that short barrel can built carbon faster, is this true???
 
Doumbogey said:
ANd yes i'm open to try the Viton O-ring.... How do i proced.?
Click to expand...

Is your fired round being extracted ? and your getting stovepiped rounds ? I had a rifle brought to me last week with a similar stopage, it turned out his ejector spring was bound up with carbon.
 
I had this problem with a Daniel Defense upper when I went to a competition muzzle brake. Sometimes the gun becomes over gassed, and cycles the bolt to harshly, inducing stove pipes and FTE's. Going back to an A2 flash hider fixed it, but I ultimately went back to a brake, and installed a H2 buffer. Solved the issue.
 
Could it be the chamber? If there is an imperfection in the chamber, when the brass expands it will stick. I have chased extractor problems before only to find out it is a bad chamber. It's very unlikely in a new or properly cared for rifle, but what makes it difficult to source is that the brass will cool quickly in the chamber and become easy to take out. This makes it seem likely to be the extractor when in fact it is the chamber.
 
it sounds to me like he may have a damaged extractor.it will work when the gun is clean,but when the chamber is dirty and extraction is a bit harder,the extractor will ride over the rim.also broken or tired extractor spring.the part about using different lubes and getting different results makes me wonder if it isn't something else.just a bit more info please.check brass for extractor force.if rim is damaged it is not your extractor,but like pomlt3-08 pointed out,chamber may have a rough spot,please keep us posted,we're all trying to help.
 
a few things to look at:

- bolt carrier key - is it on tight? Also is there any damage at the opening of the key
- gas tube end - is it OK in terms of shape?
- Bolt - check you rings
- Extractor - you need the heavy spring and black buffer for shorty barrels...Get the Viton o-ring - this will likely solve the problem
- check your mags - not likely - but possible

Boltgun
 
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