AR lube help needed

Claven2

Claven2

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Probably already discussed to death, but a quick search didn't find it :oops:

What lube do you guys use for your AR's and what areas do you lube.

I know the CF guys will say to use CLP, but alas to many folks (like myself) it's not readily available. So what is best to use that can be found almost everywhere?

At this point I've film greased the bolt carrier rails with GI Lubriplate, along with the contact surfaces of the charging handle and the handle hook so it would cam over the upper notch easily.

I also put a little Hoppes machine oil on the gas rings of the bolt.

Beyond that I'm not sure what else to do? Advice, opinions?

Thanks in advance :)
 
Bennies in stittsville has FP-10. I'd have to say that it lubes better than CLP as I have both and have switched to the FP-10 for the AR.
I lightly lube the inside of the upper where the carrier rails run, the carrier rails, inside the carrier where the bolt runs, the contact points on the bolt, the cam pin, and the hammer face.
 
Lets be clear here, most of us including myself simply play "highspeed enthusiast", 99% of the time a simple bottle of Hoppes #9 oil (orange bottle) will keep an AR running perfectly, is there better, yes, do most of us need it? no. Don't over think this, keep it clean and lubed and you're GTG.
 
Breakfree is CLP
- MILITEC - CLP will do a good job -- I have experience with FP-10.


As per Sparrow you gun is not going to fall apart from a strange lube (provided it is a lube)
 
Hitzy said:
Bennies in stittsville has FP-10. I'd have to say that it lubes better than CLP as I have both and have switched to the FP-10 for the AR.
I lightly lube the inside of the upper where the carrier rails run, the carrier rails, inside the carrier where the bolt runs, the contact points on the bolt, the cam pin, and the hammer face.
Click to expand...

OK, makes sense :) Dunno if I need FP10 for the bench shooting I do, but I've been offered some CLP to try and I'll give her a whirl!

I have lubed the insides of the upper and the carrier rails with the same lubriplate I run in my M1 carbine. It's probably not needed in an AR, but I doubt it'll hurt either. Next time I strip and clean I'll switch to CLP.

I haven;t lubed the inside of the carrie yet, but will. I have lubed the gas rings though with hoppes oil as well as the cam pin. Hadn't thought of the hammer face. I suppose I could oil that too though ;)

What about the buffer tube? I've heard some people say to grease the #### out of the buffer spring to reduce wear on hte buffer tube interior. Some people run it dry - what do you guys do?
 
I've had great success (used CLP-Break Free lots and lots) with the Hoppes Gun Oil (Orange Bottle) for many years of service rifle competition. 8)

Not a single hiccup. Just use a lube that you trust. Try several brands and share them among your gun club buddies. :D

Cheers,
Barney
 
Hungry said:
I've had great success (used CLP-Break Free lots and lots) with the Hoppes Gun Oil (Orange Bottle) for many years of service rifle competition. 8)

Not a single hiccup. Just use a lube that you trust. Try several brands and share them among your gun club buddies. :D

Cheers,
Barney
Click to expand...

I'm guessing you lube all the same spots mentioned above?
 
Yes Claven2, I lube all the spots that you have mentioned.

Now, from the M14 side of things, I took a chance and greased (yup, using my M14 dentist supplied curved tip syringes) the sear engagements in the trigger group of my AR. That smoothed up the long, creepy factory trigger.

In Service Rifle we are tested for at least a 2.5 kg trigger (DCRA NSCC), so I ain't about to start altering the geometry of my AR factory trigger, even if it can be awfully creepy, gritty and long. A little dab of grease really makes a difference.

Now back to the original subject topic... I recall a conversation with a Double Distinguished US ARMY Reservist shooter (CFSAC 2000) with a tour in VN and he told me to just slap the CLP to the M16 and just give'r. :lol: Okay, that works for me.... :mrgreen:

Cheers,
Barney
 
Amsoil ATF works great for all guns and you can`t beat the price compared to those teeny little bottles.
 
I use CLP.REMOIL,Miltech whatever I have on hand..guess what folks there is no difference in how they work,gun oil is gun oil is gun oil. I have lubed my C7 with CLP,LSA,hell even used grease in it once or twice when the supply chain was not providing the proper lube. they all work equally well as far as I have seen. Like was said above don't overthink it ,it isn't rocket science and there are no magic lubes out there.
 
I goop up the recoil spring heavily to dampen the "sproing" noises, etc. I use Shooters Choice red wide-temp grease on the recoil spring/buffer, and the cam pin (or whatever it's called), Hoppes gun oil everywhere else. Sometimes I'll put a light film of grease on the carrier body, but mostly I use the Hoppes oil.
 
I use Loctite's synthetic Super Lube as grease. It is extremely sticky in thin film and doesn't smell. You apply it on the breech block races and wipe the excess off.
Totally clear. It doesn't degrade, too.
Just don't get some on your fingers, you'll have a tough time getting it off.
PP.
 
PerversPépère said:
I use Loctite's synthetic Super Lube as grease. It is extremely sticky in thin film and doesn't smell. You apply it on the breech block races and wipe the excess off.
Totally clear. It doesn't degrade, too.
Just don't get some on your fingers, you'll have a tough time getting it off.
PP.
Click to expand...

Hmm... loctite as a LUBRICANT huh? That just doesn't sound right. I might want ot take it apart someday! :lol:
 
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