AR trigger jobs?

TacMed said:
Don't take it as im giving you crap we all have to learn.
I was thinking that you could get correct info with a couple ways I listed.
You have to take forum info with a grain of salt.

But really the books by Patrick Sweeney are great when I took my Gunsmith course all his books are required reading.
And don't worry he is a gun guy it's not endless specs its picture's and laymens terms and you can read the posts here and trust me he is easier to understand then alot of the post's I and alot of other people make.
They aint much money try them out for a beginer they are solid gold!!!!
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Thanks
 
CZ85Combat said:
As Lawman said, Arms East is the place to get them
For install, less than 20 mins and I am no gunsmith or expert
Plenty of example on youtube, have a look
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Watch the videos on Arms East's website in the ad for the Geissle SSA trigger, its all explained quite well by Bill Geissle himself.
 
thanx very much for all the good info! as usual.

I suspected it would be a bit more complicated, that's why I asked. :)

I will pay close attention to the case hardening issue and will take off VERY minimal metal.

I may try those springs too.

Again tho, over all not disappointed with the trigger, its quite good for a semi that only has 300 rounds thru it.
 
I have never handled a rifle with a Giselle (Sp). I did try an AR with a Rock River and have put 2 of them in ARs, and have 2 more on order for the 2 new NEAs.

I think the RR is available as a single stage and a 2 stage Match. I prefer the 2 stage, because it has lots of sear engagement. The one in my Norinco is about 3 pounds and crisp. I think a 5 pound version is also available. The Rock Rivers sell in the USA for around $120. They drop right in.
 
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Would using high grit (1000 range) mylar sheets for a couple of passes to get the burrs off and polishing with Dremel red mess up the case hardening? I can't imagine that taking off like 20 mils... More like 3
 
bilkathegerman said:
I have done trigger jobs on all my ARs, also changed the springs for JP's, the pull is much cleaner and they work perfectly fine. Lots of youtube 'how to' videos.
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Some of them are pretty bad and include removing the case hardening and butchering the springs... Just because it's on youtube doesn't mean that it's best for your rifle.
 
The most I would do to my stock trigger is to dab autosol (automotive metal polish paste from cdn tire) on all the contact and engagement points, and dryfire a thousand times (roughly a 60 minute tv show). Then wipe clean and follow up with lube. Be sure to put some padding and masking tap where the hammer drops.

There's things u can do with the stock springs, but with the variety of ammo out there, don't mess with them.
 
Ganderite said:
I have never handled a rifle with a Giselle (Sp). I did try an AR with a Rock River and have put 2 of them in ARs, and have 2 more on order for the 2 new NEAs.

I think the RR is available as a single stage and a 2 stage Match. I prefer the 2 stage, because it has lots of sear engagement. The one in my Norinco is about 3 pounds and crisp. I think a 5 pound version is also available. The Rock Rivers sell in the USA for around $120. They drop right in.
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Curious where you get these Rock River triggers? In Canada?
 
I recently had a trigger job done on my AR, now it has about 1.5 lb pull, and very short, crisp travel..
Shot some rounds through it and was very pleased. Double taps are super fast now.
 
Dmitri said:
I recently had a trigger job done on my AR, now it has about 1.5 lb pull, and very short, crisp travel..
Shot some rounds through it and was very pleased. Double taps are super fast now.
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I would have some serious safety concerns with an AR that has a trigger pull that light. There is such a thing as too light and 1.5 pounds in an AR is pushing that limit.
 
Here's a post I saved on a simple trigger job that works extremely well. I have a small piece of foam I put between the hammer and frame.

Originally posted by Longshot

Don't waste your time and money on a new one. Give yourself a .25 cent trigger job!

How do you do it you say?

Stage #1
Take off your upper. Find a piece of para cord or other similar rope/twine. Put said para cord under the hammer. #### the hammer. Pull straight up on para cord as hard as you can while squeezing the trigger slowly. Trigger will be extremely hard to pull. If it is you know you're doing it right. Eventually trigger will break and the hammer will go forward. DON’T let the hammer slam into the frame. Enough of this will dent the aluminum and make it so your bolt catch does not function. Repeat as much as necessary. Put back on the upper and try it holding the rifle as per normal.

Stage #2
Enjoy your new smooth trigger.

Note:
This method does NOT change the trigger weight. What it does do is smooths out the pull so you don't notice the weight.
There are other options including honing the sear, but I have never really had to after using this method.
Doing this has smoothed out the triggers on all the rifles I have shot in competition including 2 second place CFSAC finishes, a third place at NSCC and a good showing at Bisley. You DON'T need a fancy light trigger on these guns to make them shoot. Save your money for practice ammo!
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homer76 said:
Here's a post I saved on a simple trigger job that works extremely well. I have a small piece of foam I put between the hammer and frame.
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That sounds sketchy lol

I'm not gun smith here obviously but that can't be good for the sear can it?

I'm just assuming that the idea would be the upward pull on the hammer forces the hammer sear into the disconnecter sear and pulling the trigger during this hard tension will somehow smooth out the sears making for a cleaner release/break?

I don't know about this, I'm not willing to do damage to a trigger group either in the name of science.

Can anyone else here attest to this method actually working?
 
Travis Bickle said:
That sounds sketchy lol

I'm not gun smith here obviously but that can't be good for the sear can it?

I'm just assuming that the idea would be the upward pull on the hammer forces the hammer sear into the disconnecter sear and pulling the trigger during this hard tension will somehow smooth out the sears making for a cleaner release/break?

I don't know about this, I'm not willing to do damage to a trigger group either in the name of science.

Can anyone else here attest to this method actually working?
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I am not sure but I imagine it just accelerates the normal break in and wear out process… I can’t imagine it would have any affect other than creating a little extra friction between the sears.
 
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