AR Won't cycle or chamber next round

Although I haven't tried the rifle yet with the new upper, I have a good feeling my short stroking issue will be solved, but the bump fire issue not so much. I also have a feeling this is going to be quite the rigamarole before I get this rifle functioning properly as well. It will be a nice unit when it is complete, but very frustrating as well. I'm actually tempted to just purchase another lower to build one of my own and work on this one another time :D then I can find my 7.5 or 10.5" upper for this lower when the time comes haha.
 
Its not rocket science, do some research, get the military maintenance manual, look at parts. Use a magnifying glass as a visual aid. Most problems can be solved after close visual inspection and truly understanding whats going on. Back when shorty barrels were a thing of wonder, there were lots of problems getting the gas port size perfect for the functioning of the firearm. Nowadays this problem is solved but you can still have problems if parts are out of spec. or worn. If you really need a part and can't find it in Kanada, gimme a pm and I might be able to help. Some of the responses to your problem are laudable.I wonder if some of these guys have ever even seen an AR. Be patient, one round in chamber, squeeze trigger (and release pressure on it) the bolt should come back all the way and lock open.....if it does not, find out why through detailed inspection. That is how you learn. Asking in an open forum will open up such a can of worms that you will replace everything 2x just because someone said 'this is it'. Go slow, have fun, learn....thats what I had to do, there was no 'internet help' in those days.
Just another FUD, that might know sumthin.
bobsonofbob
 
jonathonh said:
Hey guys,

I received my new upper yesterday morning. But following a suggestion from a fellow CGN'r, I attempted to do a function test on the rifle before I take it down to the range again. Here's the one I did:

Patrol Rifle Function Test:
Make certain that there is no live ammunition in the rifle or associated magazines. Again, I find a physical chamber check going up through the mag well faster and more accurate than a visual check.

-Let the bolt go forward.
-Insert a mag and lock it into the mag well.
-Pull back smartly on the charging handle. The bolt should lock to the rear. If it does not, check the orientation of the magazine springs. Unlike most pistol magazines, the spring in most AR-15 mil-spec mags is attached to the follower and is difficult to orient backward. But, if it is humanly possible…
-Push the charging handle forward into the locked position.
-Push the magazine release button. The magazine should fall free under its own weight. -If it does not, it could be due to either a bent magazine tube OR the magazine release catch has been screwed too far into the mag well. If you have the same problem with all of your mags, try backing off the catch arm one full turn and repeat the test.
-Slap the bolt release. The bolt should fly forward sharply and lock up into the rear of the barrel.
-Point the muzzle in a safe direction and put the safety on “Safe”. Pull the trigger, hard. Nothing should happen.
-Put the safety on “Fire”. Press the trigger. You should have a normal trigger press and hammer fall. Keep the trigger depressed.
-Rack the charging handle.
-Let the trigger go forward slowly until you hear and feel the very loud disconnector reset.
-Press the trigger again.
-Attempt to put the safety on “Safe”. With the hammer down on an AR-15 and variants, the safety cannot be put on safe.
-Repeat for all remaining magazines.

I run into issues on the bold underlined red font area. After I rack the charging handle and let pressure off the trigger, I do not "feel or hear the very loud disconnector reset."

Then when I pull the trigger again immediately after i follow this procedure nothing happens. So he hammer must be falling as the bolt slams forward when I rack the charging handle while holding the trigger? Am I going to be looking at maybe a new lower parts kit for the rifle?
Click to expand...


What you just did was proper testing of the trigger group. That's about exactly the same as we do in the CF with our C7/C8, except for automatic firing where we test functionning of the automatic sear. If you don't hear the loud noise from the disconnector, it's clearly not functionning properly. As I stated earlier, disconnector or trigger sear might be worn out. It was also mentionned that disconnector spring could be the cause. These parts are not too hard to dismantle and inspect. I would check them prior to order a new lower parts kit.
 
jonathonh said:
would you guys suggest giving the one piece spiral gas spring a go? or just stick with the conventional 3 rings?
Click to expand...

i would not go with the one pc gas ring to many issue.
Cheack to make sure that the gastube lines up with the gas key, this sometimes gets out of alinement when a bbls is changed.
Any sign its had a .22 kit instaled and pluged the gas port hole with lead?
bbb
 
jonathonh said:
I had a browse on Brownells and couldn't find much for triggers that were under $100 making it hard to buy from them without the hassle of importing. Any other suggestions?
Click to expand...


if you think its a fire control part issue , i have a bunch of hammer, trigger discons, that are new take off i could let you have dirt cheap.
just trying to help not pimp my gear.
lmk if u need anything
bbb
 
Works great now! After the previous owner was kind enough to replace the initial upper with a different upper, and I took apart the lower and found that the disconnector spring was installed upside down (flared end on the top) which would explain my bump fire issue, it is finally operational haha.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom