AR15 barrel in stall. Use locktite?

B

Brianma65

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
197   0   0
Location
Canada
Hey , so I finally got my barrel and tools, and am ready to install.

I’ve been seeking advice and rather than adding to the old threads, thought it better to start a new one,each and every time .... ha ha

So my question,for the final piece of the puzzle.

Once I apply the anti sieze, do I need to apply any blue locktite, to anything?

Gas block screws? Etc.

I’m gone torque it down like a Russian virgin, (Nice n tight) and then do a final torque of 40 ft lbs.
Backing off three times.

Sound about good?C9376576-150A-4313-A706-1466E58668A0.jpg
 

Attachments

  • C9376576-150A-4313-A706-1466E58668A0.jpg
    C9376576-150A-4313-A706-1466E58668A0.jpg
    28 KB · Views: 401
Brianma65 said:
How do you stake the set screws?
Click to expand...

"Staking a screw usually involves driving a bit of metal from the surrounding area into the screw slot to keep it from turning. LocTite and other glues will work, but often make the screw harder to remove than staking." (Copied from another source)
 
DP-12 said:
"Staking a screw usually involves driving a bit of metal from the surrounding area into the screw slot to keep it from turning. LocTite and other glues will work, but often make the screw harder to remove than staking." (Copied from another source)
Click to expand...

Plus lock tight is not rated for the heat produced at the gas block. (Depending on use)

You can stake with a punch and hammer. Or you can test your assembly with lock tight and then stake it.. or pin the gas block for ultimate security.

Definitely use a vice, good centerpunch and look up a how to video on YouTube.

Plenty of pictures of good stake jobs and bad stake jobs.
 
Not hard. The metal is not so hard that it won't bend. Just make sure you use the right hex keys.

On the side note... you should never have to remove it.... onice the barrel is worn out you should buy a new gas block too.
 
Don't locktite the barrel nut or you will have a hella time later trying to remove it. With 30-80 ft/lb of torque, the nut isn't going to twist loose by your hands.
 
For barrel nut I agree if you are between 30 - 80 ft/lb it should be just fine. All 3 uppers I've built never came loose range from 1000 to 3000 rds now. I blue loctite all my gas block screws. My barrels came with one dimple so I didn't bother to do the other. So far, touch wood, nothing came loose either ;)
 
Barrel nut:
-no loctite ever. It will melt under heat anyway. And will be contaminated with the thread grease.
-Use MOLYBDENUM grease. ANTI-seeze "can" corrode aluminum anodizing.

Gas block screws: High temp loctite. I can't remember the number but it's not the BLUE one. Again the gas block get's real hot. Regular BLUE loctite will melt or get soft and become very ineffective.

Cheers.
 
Ugh. I would never EVER use Loctite (or equivalent) on any firearm part. Grease the threads and torque to proper spec. The "right stuff" is Aeroshell 64. A tube is $20-$30 and will probably last a hundred lifetimes.
 
I would use a good quality torque wrench and properly torque the barrel and nut. In fact all your firearm screws should be properly torqued. I have used medium locktite for barrel thread protectors that get loose with use with good results but that is it for locktite.
 
I use red locktite (262) on the gas block set screws and have never had one back out.
Staking is overkill and is going to damage both the gas block and your set screws when/if you want to change things up or if you use it enough to shoot out the barrel.
Aeroshell is a great item to have to say you have it, but not need as there are plenty of other suitable substitutes.
To each their own though, whatever floats your boat.
 
Last edited:
Cpt.Flan said:
Barrel nut:
-no loctite ever. It will melt under heat anyway. And will be contaminated with the thread grease.
-Use MOLYBDENUM grease. ANTI-seeze "can" corrode aluminum anodizing.

Gas block screws: High temp loctite. I can't remember the number but it's not the BLUE one. Again the gas block get's real hot. Regular BLUE loctite will melt or get soft and become very ineffective.

Cheers.
Click to expand...

I’m pretty sure green is high temp locktite. I’ve used it on trans mounting studs in aluminum cases and it breaks free with a bit of heat and some torque. Won’t strip the aluminum threads. Blue is basically useless in high temp applications and red will give you a hell of a time if you’re dealing with soft metals.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom