AR180B Bolting on scope rail

black_bear

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Hi, its been a long time since I posted on this site (3yrs?) but I remember I once saw a post from a member who took the plate off the top of the receiver and bolted a rail blank right through the top and used red locktite to keep it solid. Anyone remeber this thread or the member who posted it? I just want to know the size/type of bolts and nuts used to secure the rail.

Thanks!:ar15:
 
AR-180B rail mounting methods

I,am not the person that wrote the mounting method that you described but I,ll tell you how I did mine sucsessfully.After carefully grinding off the old mounting plate and mating and laying out the new rail on top I drilled and tapped the reciever and installed #6 or #8 machine socket screws I believe I got from Canadian Tire in the hardware in bins section.I used as many as the rail was predrilled for and believe I may of added an additional one or two.But before screwing down the rail with red locktite on the screws I found a heavy duty grayish epoxy and applied it in between as additional security as the reciever is rather thin for tapping and wiped the excess epoxy off before setting which blended the rail to the reciever nicely.The last step was to grind the excess screw length off from inside the reciever carefully to prevent bolt contact when cycling.I then used some auto flat black paint to touch up the top of the reciever where there was any grind marks outside of the rail.I prefer to use standard fine 32 threads per inch screws rather than gun screws as most of them are very fine pitch and require non standard taps.Hope that helps and Thanks---Dieseldog!
 
Have a gunsmith do it and make sure they mount the rail true to the BARREL and not centered on the receiver. Sometimes the barrel and receiver are not square.

Best method I've seen is a steel rail TIG'd to the receiver top.
 
Thanks for the info Diesel, and Sask do you think the reciever is thick enough to TIG? And I ended up prying off the triangular scope base w/ a screwdriver but it seems to have pulled the metal of the reciever out a bit where one of the spot welds were. How do I straighten it out? Can I just use a ballpeen hammer and hammer it flat?

Thanks!
 
Thanks for the info Diesel, and Sask do you think the reciever is thick enough to TIG? And I ended up prying off the triangular scope base w/ a screwdriver but it seems to have pulled the metal of the reciever out a bit where one of the spot welds were. How do I straighten it out? Can I just use a ballpeen hammer and hammer it flat?

Thanks!
Sell your gun before you destroy it more. :eek:
 
Repairing reciecer damage

Yes you can tig or mig it to repair as is just sheet steel.The secret before any welding on it is to thoroughly remove by light grinding or sanding of any of the phosphate finish in the welding area as this can effect or produce poor welds.Tig would be the best as it concentrates its heat in the smallest area and theres no splatter to worry about.I only have mig and stick readily available so it would be mig for me if I had to do it but you would want to cover the areas outside of where you want to weld and use antisplatter to protect against it.If your not up to it find a capable welder and becareful as I,ve found although some gunsmiths are great at gunsmithing their welding abilities can lack as I once found out.Thanks--Dieseldog!
 
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