Archangel SKS video installation

Bolt B'tard said:
Those are all going to be converted package deals? Nice.

My stock showed up yesterday. Wrapped it up and under the tree... Merry Christmas to me :)

BTW Dave, seeing as you and your guys have done this waaaay more often than most of us, what is your go to method to remove the gas tube pin to get the wood hand guard off? Has the hammer and pin punch worked well for you? Any other tips?

Thanks,
BB.
Click to expand...


Ya, magic box. If you dont have one, locate the smallest side of the pin & use a sharp centerpunch to start it moving. It will push on the center & flare up the edges of the pin. If that doesnt work, flip it & try the other side. If that still doesnt move, drill each end, only a millimeter or so, just enough to remove the rear ferrule, dont drill the gas tube. you can then remove it, push out the rest of the pin & reassemble with one of the the new supplied pin. Put it in a vice, flatten the end & smooth with a large flat punch, a few strokes of the file & fit! If its still too tight, i put more angle on the top rear of the gas tube to allow the cam to cam over it, these handguard tubes are tight! Hope thats clear!
 
Used to use my hand, but it takes its toll on your hand eventually, when you do as many as i do, a soft hammer makes life a lot easier....
 
hical.ca said:
Ya, magic box. If you dont have one, locate the smallest side of the pin & use a sharp centerpunch to start it moving. It will push on the center & flare up the edges of the pin. If that doesnt work, flip it & try the other side. If that still doesnt move, drill each end, only a millimeter or so, just enough to remove the rear ferrule, dont drill the gas tube. you can then remove it, push out the rest of the pin & reassemble with one of the the new supplied pin. Put it in a vice, flatten the end & smooth with a large flat punch, a few strokes of the file & fit! If its still too tight, i put more angle on the top rear of the gas tube to allow the cam to cam over it, these handguard tubes are tight! Hope thats clear!
Click to expand...

Thanks Dave. As I suspected, it's more a matter of what works for your particular gas tube pin. Start with the simplest methods and go from there... I'll work on it this weekend.

BTW, I placed an order for a couple of the pro-mag 5/30 mags for the SKS as they were (and still are) showing in stock on the 24th. Hopefully this is accurate and my order can be filled.

Thanks again,
BB.
 
hical.ca said:
The pins can be quite easy or range to very stubborn, you may be lucky !
Click to expand...

I was not.

I got it out without marring the cap or pin hole, but it put up one hell of a fight... much pounding, center punching, drilling and swearing. In the end it came out in two pieces. A sacrifice to the gunsmith gods by way of a drill bit, pin punch, and the gas tube wood (it split) was required, though. I don't envision ever putting any of the wood back on.

After that it went quite smooth. Pin went back in with a few firm taps and was easily peened after assembly and is easy to file smooth, being aluminum.
I did have to do a light filing on the angle/ramp of the gas tube end where the lock bar holds it in place; maybe 0.5mm or a touch more.

I was hoping that the storage compartment in the grip would fit the buttstock cleaning kit from the original stock, but alas, though it fits like a glove it is too long and you cannot close the door. If you remove the bore guide/cap the kit will fit, but there's no room left for the bore guide.
I did manage to install the cleaning rod as there is a hole/channel provided in the new stock for this. It sits in there firm... no rattle and wont fall out. Just gives it a little more of that AK look.

For anyone that hasn't tackled this yet, a few notes:
1) The trigger guard gap filler must be pinched together then slid off to come out... not obvious at first glance and no mention how it comes off in the instructions. And don't forget to install the trigger assembly spring provided in the kit before you snap in the trigger group!
2) Check the inside of your SKS fore-end cap that goes on the front stock... mine had burrs of metal in there that made the whole barrel/action assembly sit too far forward. Easily removed with a Dremel.
3) When you fit the stock for the first time, get it snug in place then remove it. Look for any wear spots that might indicate where some light in-letting may be required.
4) If you are new to SKS duckbill mags, the bolt must be locked open to install or remove these mags.

All said, not a bad project. Took me about 3 hours all told... but I'm fussy, so YMMV.

Hope some of this info helps others a little.

BB.
 
We do then in the store for locals, or sell complete rifles already built. Most arent that difficult, but when you get a bad one, they are bad!
 
Thanks for the video. Glad you mentioned the two pins as I did not see them tapped to the back of the cardboard. The replacement spring bag was loose in the packaging so that came out with the stock. I ended up needing a second pair of hands to help with drifting the pin out as I couldn't come up with a good way to secure it in a vise/etc. It didn't want to go without a fight but its out now.
 
The extra pins were my request, they were going to suggest using the original pins, until i pointed out the fact they usually fail or bend at least, i have personally done over 100 SKS gas tubes! Thats why they are taped to the back...
 
first minute in thoughts: what grace! what finesse! (is Russian gun, likes to be slapped around!:)

second minute thoughts: big hammer, hit gun, is Russian gun, likes to be slapped around!


very nice vid, concise, lots of info. thanks


only thing id want is the bayonete on mine if i ever get rid of the wood on mine
 
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