Are most muzzle brakes created equal?

newshot

newshot

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I have a 270 wsm browning x bolt and am thinking of putting a muzzle brake on it. A Vais one was recommended to me. I really don't know much/anything about this other than my 270 really jumps off the table when I shoot it. I figure you precision guys may be the best to ask.

Any tips are appreciated. Thanks!
 
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not trying to be a jerk but, it sounds like you need to work on your position a bit first. with out getting to long and drawn out, you want to be "squared" to the ride and directly behind it as possible.. a 270wsm isnt a big recoiling calliber (XX matter of opinion and nothing more XX) and shouldnt "really" jump off the table then fired, this can also be cuased by a bad flinch, when one instictivly pulls away from the recoil of a rifle.


as far as breaks go! there will be many different options to choose from, but we need more info... is the increased noise goin to be a problem (annoying range members) do you shoot alot of prone if any?

some breaks are suprisingly quiet, while others make a .223 feel like a swift slap to the face for the person beside you, if you spend alot of time laying in the dirt, your goin to want somthing that doesnt have vent ports on the bottom.
 
I am new to rifles and I am sure their is room for improvement with my position, but the recoil is not really my problem, as in it isn't bashing my shoulder or uncomfortable. The issue is that the barrel is jumping up making a follow up shot very time consuming. I may do some prone shooting, but mostly from a table or while out hunting. I am not too worried about noise, more performance.

Actually, I am sure I was flinching a bit too and will work on that.
 
I would recommend more trigger time with your rifle before you buy a muzzle brake. If you are flinching now, you will flinch more with a brake.

And to answer your question: No, not all muzzle brakes are created equal. There are many threads on this subject, please do a search.:) The Vais brake you mentioned is a decent choice and doesn't slap you too hard with blast.
 
newshot said:
I am new to rifles and I am sure their is room for improvement with my position, but the recoil is not really my problem, as in it isn't bashing my shoulder or uncomfortable. The issue is that the barrel is jumping up making a follow up shot very time consuming. I may do some prone shooting, but mostly from a table or while out hunting. I am not too worried about noise, more performance.

Actually, I am sure I was flinching a bit too and will work on that.
Click to expand...


if your not finding the recoil that bad, then i would suspect that its position and i would work on that befor spending the money on a good break, here is an easy way to check for a flinch...

go with a friend to the range, set your rilfe up on the table, turn away and have them load the rifle, with a live round OR no round.. and have them close the bolt and put the safty on. get behind your rifle and in your shooting position, have them balance a quater on the barrel


take your safty off and make your shot. If there was a round in the chamber it goes bang. if they left the chamber empty the coin should stay on the barrel when it goes click, if the falls off you have a flinch, repeat this a few times making sure its random when there is and isnt a round in the chamber. then from there you know you have a flinch to work on

as for postion, do you know any more experianced precission shooters in your area that would be able to help you out?


i hope that makes any sense
 
Oh yeah...I forgot about the search button...VAIS worked, muzzle brake worked....even muzzle break worked...no excuse really...if I think of one I will post it immediately and expect an apology.

Those tips make perfect sense. It is how I learned to kick my flinch with my pistols, just used snap caps and live rounds mixed in mags and shuffled my mags. Good tips and appreciated. I usually look for the store bought purchase before working on the skill and then realize I should start from working on the skill and end up buying something different after I know what the hell I am talking about. That is another habit I need to break, but I KNOW I am not alone there.

Thanks clauber for the feedback on the VAIS as well. I am still interested to hear how it lines up against other brakes.
 
haha i think we all have the habbit of buying things.. i dont think its the habbit of buying products to make one a better shooter but the habbit of buying stuff cuz its cool! i know i have the same habbit! i just lucked out that i was toought to shoot on a single shot 22 with peep sites when i was just a kid! so its engrained in me that....

TECHNIQUE BEFORE TOYS!!!


if i had my way , all my rifles would have breaks cuz i love the feeling / sound of a loud break. but i dont think i would be welcome at the range if i did that lol
 
I have three braked rifles. I have a slot/small hole brake from HS on a 6.5 pound 325wsm, a ATRS gill brake on a 338 edge and a homemade brake for a 300 win mag. The HS brake only takes the recoil of this light rifle down to what you would expect from a standard 30-06, and adds little to the volume. The atrs brake takes the 338 down to a 243 recoil level, but it won't make you popular at a range.

If you are looking for a brake to really cut recoil I would go with a port style brake. The rear most port should be machined at 90 deg to the barrel with the forward ports angled back more towards the shooter, this design cuts the pressure wave that reaches the shooter.
 
Look up the holland quick discharge. The brake works great and has no bottom ports. Have it on a couple weatherby's. My fiancee can shoot a few hundred bucks worth of reloads in a day no problem on her 300 Wby. Provided i let her. Just a warning, these brakes will not make you any friends at a range. Lol.
 
Another vote for the Holland Brake, having no holes on the bottom makes a big difference in keeping the muzzle down.
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"...the barrel is jumping..." You using a padded rest? Put the rifle on the rest at its balance point. Usually just forward of the receiver.
 
I definately have the rifle more controled now, but I still think a brake will help, especially for follow up shots.

The holland brake sounds like a great choice but I can't find one in canada and they won't ship them from the states. Any idea on a source for these in canada or a similar one I can get here?
 
Before going with a brake, be sure that you are willing to accept the fact that even a single shot with a braked rifle, without hearing protection, can cause permanent damage to your hearing.
 
newshot said:
I have a 270 wsm browning x bolt and am thinking of putting a muzzle brake on it. A Vais one was recommended to me. I really don't know much/anything about this other than my 270 really jumps off the table when I shoot it. I figure you precision guys may be the best to ask.

Any tips are appreciated. Thanks!
Click to expand...

I have 2 muzzle braked rifles 378WM w/KDF slim line, 300WM w/Jennings slim line. Big Bores n hot loads will Jump, Shooting position n form will lessen your muzzle jump. use of a sling will help out while bench resting n using a proper padded rest or sand bags resting forend n rear stock.
my 270WM and 308W, never required any brake.
A brake will take the snap out of the rifle n help your follow up shots.
Holland breaks are better, see a gunsmith for one.
Bin Dair Done Dat.
 
My vote is for the Holland radial discharge brake. I have one on my 338LM and it recoils less than my 308. The ports are angled backwards but the blast does not seem to reach the shooter. Now if your standing beside me, well that is a different story.

Holland brakes are carried by a few smiths around here. PM me if you cannot locate one.
 
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