Artificial light for chronograph.

c-fbmi

c-fbmi

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Has anyone done this and what type of lighting is supposed to be the best? I'm sure I've read that a 4' fluorescent is the correct light source and I know I have done it years ago indoors with one, but wondering if the new LED is better or the fluorescent is still the best? Any experience out there?
I'm building a shooting house for my private 100 + 200 mtr range and I am going to incorporate 2 chronographs (Oehler 35Ps) into the house, permanently set up and powered, so I'd like to know the best lighting arrangement for this. What do the different manufacturers recommend, or do they? I know what you are thinking, "look it up yourself" however I am barely computer literate and not able to "look it up myself".......or do EMTs, or e-mail pictures........get the idea?
 
Old technology ....

If you've got a bit of money you can spend , I'd look into -

Superchrono - acoustical chronograph
kurzzeit PvM-21
Magneato speed

None of them are effected by lighting conditions
 
Well U_M I already own the two Oehlers and if I'm lighting them artificially they won't be subject to changing light conditions either will they? Thanks but your post was of no assistance.
 
Fluorescent lights actually flash on and off with current cycles, and do not make good lights for chronographs. Make sure that whatever you choose is a constant light source.
 
Ah didn't know you already owned them..

In which case I would stay away from fluorescent bulbs, they flicker 1000s of time per minute (not really noticeable to the human eye) and can effect your readouts , but how much I'm not to sure . I'd think a very well lit set up using incandescent light would work well if there was no shadowing . There is a few company's that offer lighting set ups that take the place of the sky screens , but I'm not sure if they are comparable with the ohler as they are marketed for the newer cheaper shooting chrony. Etc.. But it is just light so I don't see why it wouldn't work ..

When I get home later, I'll do some google work
 
RCBS site says do not use flourescent light....instead use 60-100w incandesent bulbs mounted in aluminiun reflector dishes centered 24 inches above each diffuser.
 
You can make an LED source using hockey puck lights




They are rare earth magnets holding the lights to the diffusers - Lee Valley Tools.

or in the case of the Oehler use IR from PACT.

http://pact. com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=32&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1&vmcchk=1&Itemid=1
 
I tried the cheap LED setup and it didn't work too well for me.
I bought the Chrony LED lamps and have not looked back since.
I could have cobbled up my own led strips for maybe 1/2 the cost but if I included my time I'd be at the same cost in the end.
Some people don't count their spare time as being worth anything.
 
My buddy tried the cheap stick on pucks and it didn't work so well. For something permanently wired in I'd look at the strip lights of led that Lee Valley and others sell.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,43349,70322&p=70323
 
Fluorescent light bulbs cycle at 60 Hertz/second. That would be 3,600 Hertz (cycles) per minute. Not a constant light source and problematic for chronographs. Incandescent, quartz, or LED are all good. With a diffuser they work even better.
 
tenexx said:
You have to be careful of some LED lights as they use Pulse Width Modulation to control the brightness which also affects the Chrony's IR sensors.
Click to expand...

But I'm not using a Chrony, I'm using 2 Oehlers and without a dimmer, on full time voltage there should be no modulation.........that is built into the dimmer module is it not?
 
c-fbmi said:
But I'm not using a Chrony, I'm using 2 Oehlers and without a dimmer, on full time voltage there should be no modulation.........that is built into the dimmer module is it not?
Click to expand...

If it is full time voltage then you will not have a problem. Some of the puck type lights like those in RePete's picture are and some are not. It is said that you can see the pulse like a strobe if you move it quickly in front of your eyes. Both the Chrony's and Oehler 35's use infrared sensors.
 
I'm using battery-powered infrared strip lighting for my Chrony. (Gives me options at the outdoor range in bad weather too).

The detectors used in the Chrony are infrared, so visible LEDs don't work work with them too well.
Incandescent frosted aquarium lights is what Chronoy sells for their first-gen illuminators.
(Lot of infrared in an incandescent lamp)
 
c-fbmi said:
I know what you are thinking, "look it up yourself" however I am barely computer literate and not able to "look it up myself".......or do EMTs, or e-mail pictures........get the idea?
Click to expand...
Oh, how it warms the cockles of me geriatric heart to hear you say that Douglas.
Rest assured, you are not alone.
Very interesting thread. Nothing to contribute, but am all over this one.
I run a CED M2. Too cheap to buy the issue IR package.
 
Thanks Charlie, I'll be giving them a call tomorrow................you can't teach a stubborn old Irishman nothin', by the way !!!! I can look up phone numbers, never thought of that...........
 
I don't know if this helps but I just use one 12 volt tail light bulb over each diffuser. Really simple to set up. Go to a local auto wrecker and pick up a couple of those twist in plastic bulb holders with wire tails hanging off them. A couple of bucks each. Then, either set up an ATV battery or run a set of wires from you vehicle battery or even from you cigarette lighter to the bulbs.

Of course, the bulb holders should be mounted in a light plywood or plastic plate about 6 inches above the diffusers on a stiff wire frame that attaches to the diffuser frames.

Works extremely well, very cheap and easy as well as gives very consistent readings under all light conditions.

Remember, a Chrony or any other velocity measuring device depending on light sources will give different readings with differing amounts of light. The bulbs, eliminate this issue. The velocities may not be exact but that isn't the problem they will be close enough for assessing safety issues and load consistencies.

The only true velocity measuring units that seem to be reliable and give very close approximate readings are those units that measure the time between screens being penetrated.
 
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