asked for unique. ..got black mz for my 38-55. any recipes?
- Thread starter mike44325
- Start date
Since it's a black powder substitute you should be able to get away with 55gr of it as that was the original load in the name of the cartridge. Remember that 55gr in this case is measured volumetrically relative to black powder and not actually by weight. If the cartridge is like every other black powder cartridge I know of it will be very difficult to actually get the proper volume into the case. Most of my 45-70 loads are only using 55gr of FFg because that is what will easily fit in the case with some light compression. I'm only shooting at 50 and 100yds so I don't desperately need the extra velocity.
I would make sure there is at least a little compression as it was probably designed to be used like black powder so is probably formulated to work under the same conditions (at least some compression to sometimes very high compression).
A Lee scoop set or adjustable black powder measure (usually made from brass) would be great for this.
Technically true black powder can be measured by actual weight but every substitute I've heard of is meant to be measured based off of the equivalent volume method. By that I mean if X volume of FFFg would actually weigh 55gr on a scale, that same volume would be used to make an equivalent volume charge of black powder substitute no matter what the actual weight of the substitute on a scale would be. As far as I've read most "volume equivalents" are set on FFFg and not FFg which is what I mostly use. Some people will refer to "grains by volume" or "grain volume" which are not real measurements. An article on Chuck Hawks' site by Randy Wakeman describing the issues with volumetric-weight can be found here: http://www.chuckhawks.com/blackpowder_volumetric.htm
To measure by true weight you will need to find the density difference between FFFg and Black MZ then multiple the charge you want by the density ratio to find the actual weight of Black MZ you want.
The easiest method will be to buy an adjustable black powder measure, set it for what you want, and use it either with black powder or substitute and it should in theory give the same muzzle energy with both. In the cast of a 38-55 you'd probably be looking at "40gr" of powder for a light compression, low recoil load. If you want to go up to "50gr" you will probably need a drop tube or compression die.
I would make sure there is at least a little compression as it was probably designed to be used like black powder so is probably formulated to work under the same conditions (at least some compression to sometimes very high compression).
A Lee scoop set or adjustable black powder measure (usually made from brass) would be great for this.
Technically true black powder can be measured by actual weight but every substitute I've heard of is meant to be measured based off of the equivalent volume method. By that I mean if X volume of FFFg would actually weigh 55gr on a scale, that same volume would be used to make an equivalent volume charge of black powder substitute no matter what the actual weight of the substitute on a scale would be. As far as I've read most "volume equivalents" are set on FFFg and not FFg which is what I mostly use. Some people will refer to "grains by volume" or "grain volume" which are not real measurements. An article on Chuck Hawks' site by Randy Wakeman describing the issues with volumetric-weight can be found here: http://www.chuckhawks.com/blackpowder_volumetric.htm
To measure by true weight you will need to find the density difference between FFFg and Black MZ then multiple the charge you want by the density ratio to find the actual weight of Black MZ you want.
The easiest method will be to buy an adjustable black powder measure, set it for what you want, and use it either with black powder or substitute and it should in theory give the same muzzle energy with both. In the cast of a 38-55 you'd probably be looking at "40gr" of powder for a light compression, low recoil load. If you want to go up to "50gr" you will probably need a drop tube or compression die.
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BP subs can be considerably hotter than BP.
I'd suggest a measured smaller load with some filler til you are sure it's not going to be too brisk.
Not super experienced but I've seen an antique have it's bbl threads 'poop the bed' upon switching to a BP subsitute. Very disappointing to say the least.
I'd suggest a measured smaller load with some filler til you are sure it's not going to be too brisk.
Not super experienced but I've seen an antique have it's bbl threads 'poop the bed' upon switching to a BP subsitute. Very disappointing to say the least.
