AYA Number 1

There is one rule about Spanish guns. There are no rules.

Looking inside and seeing gold locks is not an indication it's a #1 and an AyA #1 of 25 years ago is not the same as an AyA of today.

There was something about this thread that was nagging at me so I reread portions of Terry Wieland's book Spanish Best and discovered what it was.

If the date of manufacture is correct it is a DIARM gun. DIARM was an abortive attempt in the mid 80's by the Spanish government to consolidate various gunmakers in one operation. AyA was the largest maker involved and was permitted to retain it's own brand. DIARM lasted less than 4 years.

An AyA made in the DIARM era is not as highly regarded. It might be every bit as good a gun as others made a year before or after or might not.

Assess the gun for yourself. At $2,000 it sounds like a good deal but resale on Spanish guns never has been great and if you are acquiring in hopes of making a profit you might be disappointed.
 
DIARM or not ... if in the condition described ... and IT IS an AyA No. 1, - $ 2,000 remains a very good price.

If you're that unsure, why not obtain an independant appraisal from a knowledgeable dealer ???
 
Well I bought it and had it appraised by Stuart Newby as well as cleaned inside-He says it is worth about $5000 and I got a good deal. Now for the bad news-I just don't shoot it very well as the 26 inch barrels are a bit short for my liking and i can't get used to the double triggers. Any idea how to get a fair market value for it or trade for a good O/U ?
 
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AyA aYa

I think the honourable thing to do is offer it to your good pals onCGN, first!

Did it turn out to be a sidelock with detachable plates? If you have a picture link it would be most helpful, thanks.



FM
 
Yup it is a sidelock with detachable plates and gold plating inside in very good condition. Sorry no pictures as I am computer challanges but if anyone wants I will phone and discuss in whatever detail they wish-made in 1977 before the DIAM Fiasco! What i realy want is a CSMC 16 Guage RBL-from what I know this might be a doable trade?
 
AyA

Frodo,

That's quite a choice. Are you also looking at any of the SKB made Ithaca sxs since they are (the 280E, for one?) just about the same as the Connecticut Shotguns round action?

What about the AyA didn't work for you?

Thanks,

FM
 
Had not thought about the Ithaca --the AYA has 26 inch Barrels and seemed light up front to me but then I spend 95 % of my time swinging a 30 inch waterfowl gun. As well I just can't get used to the double Triggers and kept trying to bend the first trigger.
 
I'm envious of your double triggers, since my AYA No. 1 has a single non-selective trigger and I'd much prefer the double trigger version. Seems like it's almost impossible to find the "perfect" used gun, but I'm still looking.....
 
Perfect

Do AyA no 1 sidelocks come with sling swivels?

I shot Ithaca sxs with double triggers for many years and once trained always preferred for upland. Not sure about trap shooting.
 
AyA

Not that I like the idea of swivels on doubles but thanks for the information.

If I'm not mistaken the newest AyA offerings all have steel shot proofed barrels--that's a step in the right direction.



FM
 
For a smoother swing, you should be gripping the barrels, not the foreend.

And give the dual triggers time and practise; after a while it'll seem natural.
 
Grouse Man said:
For a smoother swing, you should be gripping the barrels, not the foreend.

And give the dual triggers time and practise; after a while it'll seem natural.
Click to expand...

I am gripping the barrels but as far as adapting to DT it seems unlikely to happen with the amount of ST shooting I do!
 
No different from me; I learned. Shoot a few rounds of skeet, or whatever it takes. The straight wrist is what jogs my mind to remember that there are two triggers.
 
Going between a single and double triggers is like going between an automatic and standard transmission. It just needs a little practice.

It also helps not to mix configurations. My sxs are double trigger, auto safety while the o/u are single trigger/manual safety. When I pick up my sxs I've practiced enough that instinctively I know the safety has to come off and my finger has to go to the second trigger. Put a single trigger on a sxs or an auto safety on an o/u and either I'm reaching for the non-existent second trigger or yanking the trigger on an o/u still has the safety on. :redface:
 
Aya #1

Longwalker makes an important point. If you're buying it as a shooter, you should have a good idea what you want/need in terms of length of pull, balance point, drop and heel and comb, cast, etc. and that the gun will fit or that the gun can be modified to fit without diminshing it's appearance. I would suggest that you also research the AYA #1 a bit, so that you will know what to look for in terms of any well intentioned, but ill-advised modifications made to the gun after it was built. Also, if you plan on shooting it a lot, plan on using light, lower pressure loads. The gun likely weighs about 6.5 pds (less than many modern 20 g sxs guns) and was likely proofed at somewhere between 9,000 and 10,000 psi. It is commonly recommended that load pressures be no more than 75% of proof. Even 1 1/8 ounce factory target loads can exceed 10,000 psi (e.g., 3 1/4 dram trap handicap load). The barrels aren't likely to fail, but you will shorten the life of the gun considerably (not to mention that of your shoulder).
 
Yes, make sure the gun fits you. If you decide to buy it, get in touch with Kent (through Fassteel on this site, if you want). They distribute low pressure nitro shells with felt wads in 2 1/2", by Game Bore (in 12 gauge they're called "Pure Gold"). They're a bit more money than target loads, but they're loaded to the pressure ranges that won't damage the gun, or punish your shoulder. A flat of those will last any hunter many a season. Neither the gun nor the shells are intended for high volume clay shooting, obviously.

All of the above assumes the firearm under consideration is sound.
 
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