I had a couple of issues. When doing the initial cleaning, I noticed part of the front sight bead protruded into the barrel about 2mm. A little cleanup with the Dremel fixed that. The other issue was the bolt that holds the stock to the receiver came loose after only 5 rounds (#7.5 birdshot). Took it apart and replaced 2 of the 4 washers with a lock washer and put some blue Loc-Tite on the threads. I've put probably 50 more rounds through it after that with no problems.
Backpacker FRT#
- Thread starter Rocket Surgery
- Start date
Rocket Surgery
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
K-Roc
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Outer Ottawa
You think with these fixes you would trust this gun with slugs? Haha... I'm not sure I would. Sounds like your totally blew into pieces!
Personally, I would be hesitant to add any loctite to the buttstock receiver bolt, the lock-washer should be enough.
In my case the M10 buttstock bolt has six washers, so it does not sound too relevant regarding the washer count. Also, I don't remember having anything going loose on my Backpacker, and all I have ever shot from mine were slugs, mostly 3" (and 3" Magnums, though some say there is no difference between the two, my shoulder sure felt the difference). Though I still have ways to go to shoot 50 shells from mine - 20ish so far.
In my case the M10 buttstock bolt has six washers, so it does not sound too relevant regarding the washer count. Also, I don't remember having anything going loose on my Backpacker, and all I have ever shot from mine were slugs, mostly 3" (and 3" Magnums, though some say there is no difference between the two, my shoulder sure felt the difference). Though I still have ways to go to shoot 50 shells from mine - 20ish so far.
The consensus on these guns seems to range from "works perfect" to "needs tweaking." Yeah, the lock washer ~should~ be enough but I figured if I had it apart, might as well add a second layer of safeguard. I don't see myself ever needing to pull it apart again but in case I do, that's why I used the blue Loc-tite instead of the red stuff.
Rocket Surgery
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Yeah after tightening up the fore end screws and tabbing a bit extra on the latch, it still falls off when firing a 2.75 slug. The #6 Steel I fired was fine, mind you once in a while it was difficult to break open to take out the spent hull. I had a new front bead installed, it seems if you aim so that you can see only the very tip of the bead, and hold directly under the target, you can hit it true. This gun tends to shoot high, but I'm guessing it's the barrel length, no big deal you just need to take a bit more time with your shots or install a massive front sight. Maybe I'll try to install some kind of screw into the fore end, but that'll require a tool to take it down, whatever.
Rocket Surgery
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Apologies for the double post, I know it's terrible forum etiquette but I think I have figured out how to fix the loose fore end issue.
I'll get pictures later, but people who own these shotguns will know exactly what I'm talking about, it seems simple to explain. On the fore end, where the wood meets the metal, and there's the 2 rear screws that attach things together, this is where I believe the fault lay. The factory workers seem to have bored out the holes where the screw heads rest so large, that the wooden forearm can 'float' with the screws firmly inserted. This in turn will create a vertical 'gap' where the wood and metal portions of the fore end meet, causing a crappy melding of the fore end 'clip' to barrel 'clip receiver'.
To sum this up, if you loosen your two rear screws on the fore end, you might notice there's play. The fore end wood can float back and forth horizontally because the two rear screw holes are over sized. Right now I have just moved the fore end into a position that gives me a firm lock on the 'clips' and screwed it all in tightly. This means that there is no longer a gap between the wood on the fore end, and the metal, resulting in a MUCH tighter mating between barrel clip receiver and fore end. I realize this is a crappy solution because under recoil, the fore end is going to float around and eventually fall off again, but fixing those two rear screw holes may be the answer. I may just try filling them in with some kind of compound that will keep those screws in a tight position (wood meeting metal), and file down the fore end clip as needed if there's too much pressure.
If this is the case and my problem is fixed, I'll post some detailed pictures for the DIY crew. I'm not sure if CanAM is doing repairs on these guns or just swapping them out for new ones. I'm only seeing a couple people from my forum search results that had this issue, and they both said he's just swapping them for new product. I probably could have taken a crap in his inbox (with all caps and bad grammar) to get this one swapped for new product, but the girlfriend dumped my ass and I have nothing to do with my life, so I may as well spend two weekends fixing a $149.00 Chinese shotgun so I can look smart on the internet.
I did also find a brony on Reddit who used camo tape to keep it together. I'm sure you could also use zip ties or a garden hose clamp in a pinch.
Thanks for reading, I'll try to get some results soon.
I'll get pictures later, but people who own these shotguns will know exactly what I'm talking about, it seems simple to explain. On the fore end, where the wood meets the metal, and there's the 2 rear screws that attach things together, this is where I believe the fault lay. The factory workers seem to have bored out the holes where the screw heads rest so large, that the wooden forearm can 'float' with the screws firmly inserted. This in turn will create a vertical 'gap' where the wood and metal portions of the fore end meet, causing a crappy melding of the fore end 'clip' to barrel 'clip receiver'.
To sum this up, if you loosen your two rear screws on the fore end, you might notice there's play. The fore end wood can float back and forth horizontally because the two rear screw holes are over sized. Right now I have just moved the fore end into a position that gives me a firm lock on the 'clips' and screwed it all in tightly. This means that there is no longer a gap between the wood on the fore end, and the metal, resulting in a MUCH tighter mating between barrel clip receiver and fore end. I realize this is a crappy solution because under recoil, the fore end is going to float around and eventually fall off again, but fixing those two rear screw holes may be the answer. I may just try filling them in with some kind of compound that will keep those screws in a tight position (wood meeting metal), and file down the fore end clip as needed if there's too much pressure.
If this is the case and my problem is fixed, I'll post some detailed pictures for the DIY crew. I'm not sure if CanAM is doing repairs on these guns or just swapping them out for new ones. I'm only seeing a couple people from my forum search results that had this issue, and they both said he's just swapping them for new product. I probably could have taken a crap in his inbox (with all caps and bad grammar) to get this one swapped for new product, but the girlfriend dumped my ass and I have nothing to do with my life, so I may as well spend two weekends fixing a $149.00 Chinese shotgun so I can look smart on the internet.
I did also find a brony on Reddit who used camo tape to keep it together. I'm sure you could also use zip ties or a garden hose clamp in a pinch.
Thanks for reading, I'll try to get some results soon.
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