Baikal (TOZ) SxS question.

No problem with slugs or buckshot through that gun. Use rifled slugs (as opposed to sabot slugs that are designed for rifled shotgun barrels). You'll find that one brand of slugs will produce much better groups than another brand might through the same barrel. It pays to buy 2 or 3 different brands and to pattern them to see which gives the best performance with your particular gun.

I have 3 of that particular model - in 12, 16, and 20 gauge. I made the effort to locate and acquire them because I'm especially fond of upland bird hunting with SXS hammerguns and there are precious few hammerguns available that were proofed for nitro shells. The Baikal is no beauty contest winner, but this particular model is light enough to carry all day and very well balanced.

Nitro proofs means that you can shoot modern nitro (smokeless powder) shells. Virtually anything on the shelf in 2 3/4" shells can be used. The exception is steel shot. While you can get away with shooting steel shot, it should only be done through the right-hand (modified-choked) barrel and only with #4 steel shot, or smaller. Using larger steel shot and/or shooting steel through the full-choke barrel can risk bulging the barrel.

I don't know if you bought the gun because it was a SXS, because it's a nitro-capable hammergun, or even because of the more than reasonable price but, whatever your motivations, in my opinion you made the right choice. Your 66 will be ruggedly dependable, versatile, ideally suited to the uplands (hopefully that's what you wanted it for), and best of all - a lively and responsive game gun for a scandalously low price.

Congratulations on a shrewd buy (I don't even have to ask you what you paid for it. I know they sell at below the $300 mark).
 
Thanks for the long and very informative reply straigthshooter, I paid $250 for it and my motivations, I always wanted a SxS with external hammers. How can you tell if this shotgun is nitro proofs?
 
Thanks for the long and very informative reply straigthshooter, I paid $250 for it and my motivations, I always wanted a SxS with external hammers. How can you tell if this shotgun is nitro proofs?

The Tula (TOZ factory) proof mark for final nitro proof is an "H" in a circle. The shadow on your image makes some of the proofs hard to see, but I believe the nitro proof is the one appearing in the bottom left-hand corner of the water table in the barrel flats image.

I also know that this model was nitro proofed, so I'd be confident of same even if your proof mark were illegible.
 
Had one similar years back. They have super tight full chokes. On the grassy praires it was no big deal to easily roll running jackrabbits @70 yards with 0 buckshot. Just be mindful of no mechanical safety, those big trigger guards have alot of empty room on the sides to catch anything hanging or poking into them when the hammers are cocked back. I am not the only shotgunner to have a close call with this design, and muzzle control saved the day. It's funny how we mere mortals have no problems with our father's Cooey single barrel shotguns, but I once had a close call with this SxS. IMHO, only #### the one hammer back shortly before use.

My two bits.......
 
...Just be mindful of no mechanical safety, those big trigger guards have alot of empty room on the sides to catch anything hanging or poking into them when the hammers are cocked back. I am not the only shotgunner to have a close call with this design, and muzzle control saved the day. It's funny how we mere mortals have no problems with our father's Cooey single barrel shotguns, but I once had a close call with this SxS. IMHO, only #### the one hammer back shortly before use.

My two bits.......

A subject fraught with pitfalls no matter how you look at it. I'd never argue against any safety best practice, unless it was so onerous as to undermine the original purpose of the activity. Still, as a fervent SXS hammergun hunter, I have difficulty imagining hunting with an uncocked gun. I mean, if this were feasible, wouldn't it be better to forget about mechanical safeties and just not #### any gun until preparing to fire?

I have never had an unintended discharge of an open hammer gun. But, that doesn't mean it'll never happen. With all my guns, I rely on muzzle control for safety, not mechanical safeties nor by carrying an uncocked gun.

I believe that your approach makes good sense when carrying the gun to and from hunting. It could work well enough with some forms of game that generally allow a second or two to collect your wits before vanishing into the bush. Game birds, though, often require instantaneous reaction or the opportunity will be lost. In these situations, I doubt anyone could ####, mount, acquire the target, and fire fast enough.

The only practical method I've found for carrying open-hammer guns is with the action open and the hammers down at all times, except while hunting. While hunting, I carry with the action closed and both hammers cocked. If hunting with a partner, I carry the loaded, cocked gun in the cradle carry position (see ht tp://homestudy.ihea.com/hsafety/04fieldcarry.htm) with the muzzle to the left if my partner is on my right, or in the two-handed ready position with the barrels pointed straight up, if my partner is working to my left (you may have guessed, I'm right-handed).

Brutus is correct in that each of us has to evaluate our own attention span, our body type, and our tendencies. Then, we have to make safety the first priority. While there are indisputable "Laws" of firearms safety, our individual approach to safety with different action designs depends on a long list of factors.

This post was intended not to provide a prescription for SXS hammergun safety, but the contrary; to show that good safety practice is a context-specific discipline. And that reliance on factors over which we exercise full control (such as muzzle direction) is superior to reliance on mechanical systems or the actions of others (over which we have no control).
 
I just noticed on my gun that the left barrel is not flush with breech about 1mm (see pic).


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They don't fuss over these guns. Provided that they are on face, the barrels are adequately regulated, and the locks work properly, no further effort goes into aesthetics. Not well finished, but you could look at that as an opportunity. You can do the finishing yourself and learn a few things along the way. You will notice other areas where they've cut corners (pardon the pun) - checkering overruns, tool marks on the barrels, wood that alternates from flush to proud on opposite sides of the same lock, to name a few. These guns are rugged and amazing value for the price. They are not examples of attention to fit and finish details.

My 12 ga. is centered better, but the fences are slightly oversized the same as yours. I tried to take the same shot/angle to facilitate comparison:

TOZ66%20top%20view.jpg
 
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