Balance Beam or Digital Scale

So really any reloading scale is accurate enough........it's simply a question of preference? Speed, ease of use, pretty color, etc.

Seems to me that the balance beam is easire to use for a novice like myself......way less things to worry about

Most of the stuff about care and maintenance of digital scales can be summed up as common sense or 'read the manual'.. you really only need to worry about the exotic stuff when your'e troubleshooting an actual problem. Tare frequently, re-calibrate at the start of every session and a few times during a long loading session (it's quick) and if you're really paranoid then measure the included check weights once in a while to make sure the scale reads what you expect it to read.

..aaaand here's where I have to gracefully bow out because we have reached the limits of my n00b knowledge. I'll just say that I bought a digital scale partly because I am also a novice and liked the simplicity of putting something on a platen and reading a number.
 
I have both but ultimately rely on my Pacific balance beam scale, because I find my MTM caseguard electronic scale to be finicky.

Get a balance beam scale for peace of mind. Get the electronic as a complement and an aid to faster weighing.
 
Last edited:
I have asked the wrong question........What I should be asking is:

For loading Cowboy Action pistol rounds and a few hunting rifle loads (.30-30, .22-250) how accurate do my powder charges need to be?

Do I need to be +/- .01gr or .1gr or 1gr to make accurate enough loads for these uses?

Nick

As important, how accurately do you want to shoot?

If the goal is cast bullet minute of close range gong, any decent scale is plenty good enough to keep track of your bulk loading.

if you want true precision for competition or LR zapping, then holding to 0.1gr or less is important.

I have yet to find a balance beam that will hold 0.1gr of powder. Most are +/- 0.1 to 0.2gr. For hunting, and general shooting, no problem at all.

I really doubt any reloading scale will be much worst so if you are seeing variations over 0.5gr, you have to check the gear cause something is not working right

So if you want to make safe, decent shooting stuff, any scale.

if you want match ammo, use a quality digi scale.

Jerry
 
Went with the GemPro 250. Picked one up on Amazon for 120.00. Going to get it today. Had it shipped to my US address.

If I get time I will write a review.
 
Went with the GemPro 250. Picked one up on Amazon for 120.00. Going to get it today. Had it shipped to my US address.

If I get time I will write a review.

I have one. The only problem with it is its sample time. It takes a few seconds for it to register when you trickle more powder into the pan. This isn't much of a problem, after a while, though. You'll quickly learn your powder/trickler combo to be able to trickle fairly precise amounts.

Your biggest problem is going to be letting go of the accuracy it offers you. Do you really need 1/50th of a grain accuracy? Do you really need to be swearing and reaching for the tweezers when you accidentally trickle 25.12 gr instead of 21.1 gr? :)
 
I have one. The only problem with it is its sample time. It takes a few seconds for it to register when you trickle more powder into the pan. This isn't much of a problem, after a while, though. You'll quickly learn your powder/trickler combo to be able to trickle fairly precise amounts.

Your biggest problem is going to be letting go of the accuracy it offers you. Do you really need 1/50th of a grain accuracy? Do you really need to be swearing and reaching for the tweezers when you accidentally trickle 25.12 gr instead of 21.1 gr? :)

For me right now anyway......I don't even intend to buy a trickler. I am only loading Cowboy Action Shooting rounds in .45 colt. I need a scale that offers good repeatability and is fast and easy to use. I get what you are saying about digital scales and trickeling but for my purposes (Loading .45 Revolver loads at 6.5 grns) I just need to know that the powder measure is set for consistent charges. If I am off by a .2 grns in either direction I am not going to redo the round.

I also am worried about having to deal with knowing how much each charge is out (I.e. the resolution of .02 grns) I can get pretty anal with these types of things and I may have to put some black tape over that last digit until I get into loading more precise charges.

Thanks for your tips and i think I made the right decision here.
 
Both have their pros and cons. Both need recalibrating from time to time. I have used both extensively in laboratory settings. I have digital scales so sensitive they come with draft shielding as even your breathing in front of it can alter the reading due to their extreme sensitivity. Something like this:

http://www.wholesale-scales.com/images/amw_AL-311_main.jpg

In the end, for me, the 2 largest factors are that you can get a decent balance for a lot less than a precision digital balance. If you have the money to spend, and intend to use often/regularly, I'd get a digital personally. They are faster/easier to use, while maintaining EXTREME precision. However, they are quite a bit more money, so if I only used it occasionally, I'd consider a balance.

In fact, since my father was a molecular biologist (genetics), and I spent quite a few years working in labs myself, I have acquired a high precision balance, a sonicator, a vacuum oven (came in very handy when I was making my own polyurethane engine mounts a few years ago, drew the bubbles right out of the liquid, and held the temp at the perfect curing temp) as well as a few other handy lab items like scoopulas, glass ware, micropipettes, etc.
 
I prefer the quicker to use digital scales.
They cost more.

I have a gempro 250 and think it's a good value for the money, once properly warmed up.


It depends how much precision you need, and how much money you have.
 
I have one. The only problem with it is its sample time. It takes a few seconds for it to register when you trickle more powder into the pan. This isn't much of a problem, after a while, though. You'll quickly learn your powder/trickler combo to be able to trickle fairly precise amounts.

Your biggest problem is going to be letting go of the accuracy it offers you. Do you really need 1/50th of a grain accuracy? Do you really need to be swearing and reaching for the tweezers when you accidentally trickle 25.12 gr instead of 21.1 gr? :)

Mine tends to lose it's calibration from time to time..anyone notice that?
 
I use balance beam scales. I was at the range and saw someone I know blow a case and have to smash the bolt open. Turns out the electronic scale they used was cheap and low on batteries when they made that round. 505 doesn't need batteries.
 
RCBS Ohaus 10/10 for me. Foolproof.
Sensetive to a couple kernels of stick powder, and unlike my couple of brand name digi's, this one stays put on it's setting once zeroed and locked on a charge weight.
With the beam's 'approach to weight' feature, I find the 10/10 much faster than the (fussy and inconsistent) digi's.

The reloading sessions, they seem much more relaxed and enjoyable without any electronic 'wonder' tools on the bench.
(Exception: the drill/driver at trim/anneal time.)

I'm an old fart.
 
I use balance beam scales. I was at the range and saw someone I know blow a case and have to smash the bolt open. Turns out the electronic scale they used was cheap and low on batteries when they made that round. 505 doesn't need batteries.

dont use a cheap scale, and dont use batteries.
make sure it's on a few hours before you use it.
use your checkweight at the beginning and end of your reloading session. it should weight the same, just like the pan.
if your 20 grams checkweight is 10 grams at the end, something went wrong somewhere.

Quite fool proof....
 
If the scale runs on batteries and not a powered adapter, odds are it's likely not that "high precision" of a digital scale.

And mistakes can be made with balance beams just as easily. Arguably more so, so let's just leave it at that.
 
Balance beam, weight standards and a powder charger. Inexpensive, effective and accurate. No batteries.
 
Back
Top Bottom