Bang Inc. 686 trigger springs

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Has anyone else used these? Any comments? The text says they work best with Federal primers because Feds are softer I suppose. I prefer CCI. Anyone use this kit in conjunction with CCI primed reloads?


Miculek S&W Revolver Spring Kit. K, L & N Frame. This kit includes a recontoured mainspring and reduced power trigger return spring for optimum trigger pull and fast trigger return. It is designed for competition and speed shooting and fits K, L, and N frame S&W revolvers. For best results, use Federal primers.
 
Have not heard of that outfit but I've been more than happy with the Wolff kits I've bought. And the springs they supply are not primer sensitive.
 
Thanks BCR. Where did you order/obtain yours from? Also, can anyone suggest whether to use a factory standard mainspring, or a reduced power mainspring? I use this firearm for target shooting but it also has to be safe and reliable for whatever else I might use it for.
 
Also, can anyone suggest whether to use a factory standard mainspring, or a reduced power mainspring? I use this firearm for target shooting but it also has to be safe and reliable for whatever else I might use it for.

The factory spring can be altered, and it will still function correctly. A reduced power spring will work also.

The easiest change you can make is to adjust the Strain Screw. Once you are happy, shorten the front of the screw.

If reliability is a concern, always lean towards the heavier side and don't hesitate if reliability is suspect.
 
I have used the Bang Inc Spring Kit for my 686... Bang inc is Jerry Michlek's company. Who better to give you advice on Revolver shooting than a world champion Revolver shooter....

I have my DA trigger pull down to 7 lbs with Jerry's spring kit. and i also bought his DVD on a S&W revolver trigger job..

The reason they say to use Federal primers is they have a reputation to be a little softer than the others.. I can report that winchester primers dont work with a 7 lb trigger pull 100% of the time. So far all my Federal primed 38sp ammo has worked well...

The one thing you can do to help with ignition is to replace your firing pin with an extended firing pin from Cylinder and Slide (Brownells).. The extended firing pin along with the federal primers will give you the 100% ignition ...

I would go with the Bang inc kit.. i actually have another one on the way for my 625..:D

RDG
 
I can only speak to the primer comparison. Couple of weeks ago I wanted to load some .38 ( I shoot PPC). Supplier was out of Federal so I bought CCI primers. Not one of the 4 PPC guns would shoot 6 out of 6 without a misfire. These S&Ws have pretty light triggers but I've never had a problem using Federals.
 
The vast majority of wheelgun folks agree that messing with the strain screw is bad mojo. Leave it stock and get the right springs. I don't agree with Lodi's idea of shortening it.

Mind you on one gun I got tired of waiting for my second order to arrive so I did thin out a stock mainspring as Lodi is suggesting. It's worked out well enough that I haven't needed to swap the Wolff spring in for it. So for now I've got a spare.

I got my kits directly from Wolff. It's easy to order from them directly.

Keep the total at under $100 to avoid the whole export permit nonsense and they can mail it direct to your door. They've got a minimum shipping cost so get some kits for your other guns or talk to some buddy's to get kits for theirs. If you get the total for the order up around $80 to just under $100 before shipping then it spreads the shipping costs out. Otherwise one kit is a bit silly once you factor in the cost of shipping.

With the strain screw left stock and the Wolff reduced power main spring combined with the softest rebound block spring I have yet to find a primer I can't pop. Well.... other than some old estate reloading stuff I got. I didn't find out until later that I was sticking 40 or so year old primers into my .38Spl reloads. But between the Wolff equipped guns and my Pietta cowboy guns I still had more FTF's with the stock Piettas than with the Wolff/S&W's. With fresh primers they are as reliable as the day is long.
 
The vast majority of wheelgun folks agree that messing with the strain screw is bad mojo.

That's a new one on me, especially from "the vast majority of wheelgun folks". What's the reasoning behind not altering the strain screw?

Granted the work needs done correctly. But with changes or alterations to the rest of the guts acceptable, I'm not sure why the strain screw is such a big no-no.
 
That's a new one on me, especially from "the vast majority of wheelgun folks". What's the reasoning behind not altering the strain screw?

Granted the work needs done correctly. But with changes or alterations to the rest of the guts acceptable, I'm not sure why the strain screw is such a big no-no.

CGN isn't the only forum I'm on. The other revolver folks on revolver forums abhor those that mess with the strain screw. The term "Bubba" keeps coming up.... :D They point out, and rightly I feel, that the screw is there to be a strip down aid rather than an adjustment.

Part of it is because when you alter the strain screw it alters the curve and thus the overall length of the mainspring. And that changes how it pulls at the connecting link to the hammer. And that changes how the hammer accelerates.

It also ruins the strain screw for future use if the next person wants to set up the gun correctly.

Now before I come across as all high and holy I should point out that I'm guilty of trying out my revolvers with the screw used as an adjuster. But I've only done this as a trial to see how much reserve I've got for popping the primers with the Wolff spring kit or with the one gun where I ground and polished the mainspring to a thinner section. I didn't leave it that way for longer than part of one range session or cut it down.
 
This is all terrific information fellows, thanks. I'm going look at both products again (wolff, bang) and I'll let you know what I ordered. Great stuff, thanks again.
 
It also ruins the strain screw for future use if the next person wants to set up the gun correctly.

Now before I come across as all high and holy I should point out that I'm guilty of trying out my revolvers with the screw used as an adjuster. But I've only done this as a trial to see how much reserve I've got for popping the primers with the Wolff spring kit or with the one gun where I ground and polished the mainspring to a thinner section. I didn't leave it that way for longer than part of one range session or cut it down.

This is what I was kind of alluding to, it seems acceptable to alter other parts but not the strain screw.

I too have been working over Smiths for many many years and have found that, with just a few exceptions, stock parts can be adjusted to give a very smooth pull that can be light also.

What I have seen change over the last several decades is that the public in general has moved from actually working on guns, to just changing parts. People are watching videos on how to change the parts yet do not learn how the individual parts function or interact with other parts. Many of the "custom" parts today are in essence just modified parts as you described above. The end result being very very similar to each other.

Oh well, life goes on.:cheers:
 
It also ruins the strain screw for future use if the next person wants to set up the gun correctly.

Well i could see not bobbing a hammer but strain screws are cheap from Brownells.... I ground mine down on my 686 and have a 7 lbs DA trigger pull (along with Bang inc spring kit) as Jerry Micheluk suggests.. and have no problems with it.. Plan on doing the same on my 625.. I guess im not just a purist.. more of a rebel.. LOL

RDG
 
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This is all terrific information fellows, thanks. I'm going look at both products again (wolff, bang) and I'll let you know what I ordered. Great stuff, thanks again.

I ordered the reduced power kit from Wolff. Two kits (main and rebound springs) and shipping $43.00. I'll let you know how it all goes. Thanks again.
 
Well I received the kits I ordered and got around to doing the install today. Haven't been to the range with it but dry firing.....wow, what a difference. I installed the reduced power mainspring and the 13# rebound spring (kit comes with 13, 14, & 15# springs). Now this isn't accurate by any means but for the purpose of comparison, using an old spring & dial fish scale, stock DA read 12# pull, stock SA read 4# pull. With the Wolff kit installed the scale read 7# and 2# respectively. This should improve my scores at Bulls Eye a bit ;).
 
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