Barnes X bullets .270 win.
- Thread starter bat119
- Start date
Back in my younger days we didn't have chorneys and we would keep putting in powder until the primer blew or the bolt was hard to open then back off a grain or two.I am amazed we still have fingers and eyeballs, but back then asbestos wasn't dangerous either!
I take it you mean a Chrony?
I still trust primer pocket tightness after five rounds more than any Chronograph readings.As soon as I think that I have my load,I load up three cases with that load and fire and reload those cases five times.If the primer pockets are still tight after five firings,the load is likely safe,if they are loose,I reduce the powder charge.
The fact is that even with identical components,and barrel lengths,the maximum velocity for a given powder/bullet/case/primer often varies by 100fps or more from manual to manual.I am not talking with the same charge of powder,but rather the maximum load with that powder.That alone should be proof that some barrels simply won't safely produce the same velocities as other barrels,with identical components.
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I use the "chorny" as a guide to let me know if the powder I am using is giving me the velocity the cartridge is capable of, if my pressure signs appear before my target velocity is reached I will try a different powder. Sometimes the problem may be something else like the brass after forming a wildcat is to thick in the neck and needs to be trimmed down. The chorny is by far the most valuable tool for reloading I own.
Your getting closer.
According to which manual?The manuals often differ by over 100fps,and sometimes much more,even when using identical barrel length, powder,primer,case,and bullet.Which manual do you believe has the correct velocity to expect out of your rifle?If the velocity is exactly as listed in one manual,but 150fps above the velocity in another manual for the identical components and barrel length,do you assume your load to be safe in your rifle based on the velocity?If the velocity from your rifle is the same as in one manual,but 150fps below that in another manual,do you continue adding powder?
When loading for a friends 30-378,we discovered that the maximum velocities listed for identical components and barrel lengths varied by almost 280fps in two manuals.
When loading for my 300wby,I discovered that the Nosler manual listed a higher velocity for the 300win mag with a 24" barrel than for the 300wby with a 26" barrel with both using the same 165gr bullet.Common sense says that one velocity must be wrong,but which one?
I do chronograph my own loads,but I normally use the readings to compare different loads that I am considering,or to compare velocities when changing lot #s of components.If no other pressure signs are evident,I don't get concerned about the velocity unless the readings are 100fps or more above the highest velocity listed in any of the manuals,or they are 100fps or more below the lowest velocity listed in any of the manuals.
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The standard for a .270 is 130 gr. around 3000 Fps most cartridges have such reputations, as for reloading manuals I would say the Hornady is on the low end and P.O. Ackley ( my hero) is on the high end ( max load is 61 Grs. 4831 compressed load) these books are for general information only and never taken as gospel. Some people run into the first pressure sign and back off why shoot a 270 at 2600 fps? This happens a lot, I've seen the look of distress after firing their pet load over a Chrony ( I am getting better) for the first time and find their loads are 300 Fps slower than factory. Speaking of factory try firing a factory load of the same weight over a chrony does your load measure up?
That depends on the cartridge.When I owned my 257wby,and 300wby,my loads averaged 50fps slower,but my accuracy was better,as was case life.Weatherby factory loads often showed pressure signs.With the 7mm remmag,my loads were about 75fps faster than the factory loads of the time.With the 7mmstw,my loads are about 150fps faster than the factory load,because the 7mmstw Remington factory loads are pathetically mild.
50 fps is good, factory loads are fairly hot as they are only intended to be fired once, I feel the same way about my hunting loads I want my gun to shoot to its maxium (safely) and brass life is of no concern as I only fire one or 2 shots per animal, the brass can be thrown away after the season. I always go the field with fresh brass put through a sizing die and trimmed. Target shooting and plinking are a differnet matter and shooting at max speed is not important.
The problem with that theory is that short brass life due to expanded primer pockets is a pressure sign,and the brass is not the only component exposed to that pressure.The action is also exposed to that excessive pressure,and unlike the brass,you don't just use it once and throw it away.Over time,that excessive pressure creates fatigue on an action,and in time that fatigue can lead to an action failure.Depending on just how excessive that pressure is,that could take a few hundred or perhaps a few thousand rounds.But it's your head that will be next to that action if it let's go,not mine.
this gun has already been through a war and a thousand loads by myself, it was my only gun back in the 70's you see, I had a mag particle done on the lugs a while back and it was given a clean bill. You want to see what an action can take, read P.O. Ackley but never do anything he does and use his loading data very carefully!
As I posted previously.
"Depending on just how excessive that pressure is,that could take a few hundred or perhaps a few thousand rounds."
How about the rest of the action where the lugs engage?And a while back,isn't now.Aircraft are inspected often,yet stress and fatigue fractures still occur.You will likely never have to endure a stress or fatigue failure of that action,but then again you just might.Is an extra 50fps or 100fps worth significantly increasing the odds of that action failure?
I said my hunting load is 3050 fps and has been for over 25 years this is not an excessive load and the brass lasts for at least 5 loads, then I toss them out, standard rule! brass is cheap why mess around trying to get a lot of loads out of them? If the primer pockets are still tight after a few rounds why would this hurt the gun? I have access to a mag particle test any time I want one, I checked in my log book lst time the .270 was checked was about 6 years ago and I havent shot in for more than 7! thats why I I want try to try some new bullets and get this old favorite out of the closet.
So do you hunt with fresh brass and throw it out after firing it once at game,or you keep that brass for at least five loads.
And if you are sure that your hunting loads are safe for five loadings,why not use them for target shooting instead of throwing them out?
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I put together welding packages for maintenance most are A105 CS, 9cr 304, SS 316, ss 347 etc. as part of the package a welding test Ndt, mag or other test is available. There is some down time during these jobs and my good buddy doesn't mind me giving him a few little odd jobs although I have not tried testing the whole gun just the lugs. As for keeping brass while hunting if I can find them I keep them.
Pathfinder
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Northeast Ontario
I use 54 gr. of Imr 4831 for a 150 gr. hornady sst. That gives me about 2850 on avg. which is very accurate for that bullet, Im willing to bet you can work up a few grains higher with the tsx bullet .
Pathfinder
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Northeast Ontario
That's a good to know, I guess he will find out when he works up, Just hope he doesnt' start at 54 grs.......
