Barrel block for attaching barreled action to stock

[Evanguy]

I'm in the process of making a stock for my F-open rifle I'm building, the receiver I'm using is a Stevens 200 and I'm using a 30" Shilen match select bull contour chambered in 284win and a Basix SAV2 trigger.

now I'm really liking the idea of using a barrel block to attach my barreled action to the stock. For a few reasons, one is simplicity when it comes to building the stock, the second is hanging such a large heavy barrel off the bedded action is bound to cause action stress and third, id like to stay away from bedding the barrel or really having anything touching it other then within the first few inches to let the barrel have its own uninterrupted harmonics, and finally id like to have the receiver free floated as well so there is basically zero stress on the receiver at all

I'm very new to this and I know this is the most "normal" way to do it, but I wondering if it has potential to work, and if not id always be able to buy or make a new stock for the rifle.

I'm planning on making the stock out of aluminum since its a lot easier to work with then wood/ laminate

I'm wondering on your thoughts and if know if this is a viable option.

Jerry, if you are reading this id love to hear about your experiences with it.

here are a few links to builds using this setup

http://www.accurateshooter.com/guns-of-week/gunweek075/

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2013/04/11/

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2015/08/advanced-barrel-block-f-class-stock-from-new-zealand/

 

[SND]

So long as the barrel has a few inches of straight shank go for it.
Watch overall weight, 22lb. You can go to 3" maximum width on the forend.
I'd say use a ski forend set up for it to track straight/level(mill out some of the underside) flat bottoms roll a hump in the sand back. You can use a bipod if preferred but then you have to include it into the 22lb.

You'll need a good sandbag for the rear as well. Edgewood are used a lot but Protektor are alright too and probably still a fair bit less $.

 

[dan belisle]

Precision Shooting did a number of articles on barrel blocks, back in the day. Might be worth looking some of those up. - dan

 

[Mystic Precision]

As you found my feature rifle, tried it for a few years. Concept sounds great but in F class you will run the barrel way hotter then in most other disciplines AND that did cause issues.

Could they be overcome? Maybe but with the demands in scores increasing, going back to a simple non barrel block set up was the most prudent direction.

And it has worked out very nicely.





The action has no problem supporting the weight without the block.

Jerry

I have no problem running a prefit in F class and will do so again this season.

 

[Viper26]

Which trigger are you running on that Jerry?

 

[Mystic Precision]

Rifle Basix Savage 2

The only light trigger we can get in Canada for the side bolt release Savage actions.

They have worked very well for me... fussy to set up but once done, work great. Remember that some of the "fuss" has to do with the variations in the actions themselves.

PM or email....

Jerry

 

[Evanguy]

Thanks for the replies guys. you have given me some stuff to think about for sure.

ill be honest, one thing I didn't not consider was the heating up of the barrel, and that may cause issues with the fitment of the barrel block, and if the block heats at the same rate, it seems the barrel would go from hot (in the chamber area) to cold (where the barrel block is) and then back to hot(the rest of the barrel after the block) and that may cause odd/unpredictable things to happen as it heats up.

if I could use some type of plastic bushing within the barrel block like glass filled Teflon or a Nylatron type plastic that wouldn't mind the heat at all.

but it seems doing it the "normal" way will work just fine. so I may play around with the idea in the future, but as for now ill use the conventional way, as to not hinder my self before I even get to shoot the rifle.

SND, so I must have missed it in the rules, but your saying if I use a front bag instead of a bi-pod, that the bag will not add to the weight of the rifle, but a bi-pod if used does count in the allowed weight? that's great news, I thought one had to use a bi-pod and were only allowed a rear bag. if that's the case i will get a nice front and rear bag for shooting, thanks for the tip on the cut out section of the ski, and also for the suggestions of shooting bags to buy. and for the width, ill make sure its under weight by a few ounces,



also Jerry, yes it was your article that got me on the idea of this, then I searched it a bit more and found others also doing it, but as many as I though, so then I figured id ask about it, thinking there may be a reason why others aren't doing it.
also what is that rifle chambered in? we are going to have basically the same rifle chambered in a different caliber and using a different stock, what scope mount are you running there? well your scope will be out doing mine for a while, but I may be able to find a nice used scope that someone has upgraded from. I know we just got squared up but I'm going to need a few parts still.you will get an email once my wife gets over what I have spend in the last few months on my projects or taxes come in, what ever comes first lol.

 

[Mystic Precision]

In open, the pedestal rest is not included in the rifle weight as long as the rifle can be lifted off the bag without the bag/rest lifting. 3" wide forend.

In FTR, the bipod is required and is included in the overall weight. My blue rifle above is in 308.... I may fit an open barrel down the road but happy with FTR for now.

F class puts to much thermal stress on the block so to make it work, would need more complexity then I care to bother with.

I am using Farrell Steel bases. EGW steels bases are another option and lower if that matters.

There are some lower dollar optics that will serve you well.



Just started testing this Delta and very impressed. Quite abit less money then the Sightron SV.



The Sightron SIIIs make for an economical entry point with excellent service. I think the 8-32 is the value option for this sport.

Jerry

 

[SND]

Also check with Peter at Hirsch Precision if you need some other things, local, carries lots of everything and always very helpful.
Regarding Tripod, you can make one fairly easily. The front bag in FO is fairly small and made to fit 3" wide forends.

Any kind of plastic bushing would cause more issues sooner or later.

 

[cody c]

Jerry, it looks like you have a long single stack mag for that savage, what have you dont to the mag/magwell for it?

 

[Mystic Precision]

Jerry, it looks like you have a long single stack mag for that savage, what have you dont to the mag/magwell for it?

The action started life as a Stevens 200 SA.. so a repeater action. Just glued in a single shot follower from Hi Score... bedded the stock to support. I likely have a few followers kicking around still.

Done...

Jerry

 

[SND]

How's the rifle coming along?

 

[Evanguy]

Well i have all the parts now minus the scope and stock. I have started the stock though.

I put it on the back burner for a little while now due to other projects mainly fencing for animals, lambing and getting one of my fields ready for 1000 grape vines next spring.

Im in need of a savage barrel nut wrench. Ive emailed Peter about one a few days ago and waiting for a reply.

There is one thing that im wondering about though. Its the throat length in my barrel. It seems its setup for factory length rounds or 100-130gr bullets.. The bullet needs to be seated near .690" into the case to get it to chamber with 180gr bullets. Its .500" of bearing surface into the case. But the neck is only .250" long. So i think i want to get the barrel rethroated to take a longer over all length so i can seat the bullet only .250" bearing surface into the case.(the full neck length). Giving me a .250" longer OAL and more case capacity.

But i do hope to get this shooting within the next month.