Barrel break in??
- Thread starter Katana
- Start date
To answer the OP's question about cleaning, I use 'wipe out' - available in cans (pressurized) or plastic bottles (liquid). Spray into barrel - let sit for half an hour - patch out. If using liquid then soak a patch and run through barrel - let sit half an hour and wipe out. I rarely use a brush and if so only one with nylon bristles.
The old 'myth' that break in's wear barrels out quicker so a barrel maker can sell more barrels is still alive... it's a joke.
It is interesting what Kreiger and Lilja have to say about it. Two of the best makers out there...
Go on their websites and look it up yourselves you lazy turds...
It is interesting what Kreiger and Lilja have to say about it. Two of the best makers out there...
Go on their websites and look it up yourselves you lazy turds...
I've only seen it mentioned in one owners manual I have read...
Barrel Break-in
There are many ways that people recommend to break in their barrels. The following is our recommended method, but certainly not required. Additionally, your warranty does not hinge on this method of break in. We have many customers who shoot sub-minute of angle from their standard button-rifled AR-15 barrels and have done NOTHING special with regards to break in.
A note of warning: Breaking in a barrel does not make a barrel inherently more accurate. What it will do is make it more consistent throughout it's life, allow it to consistently meet the barrels highest level of inherent accuracy, and give it's longest life. For these reasons we do recommend a good quality break in procedure. We will not attempt to go into great detail with regards to why this is important. Nor will we describe what it does to the barrel as far as breaking it in or any more of the more scientific reasons and effects of this procedure. Many volumes of books have been written with regards to break-in and we will not attempt to rewrite any of it.
Fire, Clean, Treat, Lubricate and Fire Method
1.Clean the barrel well.
◦Make sure the patches come out clean and white.
◦Use the cleaner of your choice (do not use ammonia-based cleaners). Use of a lead or copper solvent is okay, but use only when necessary.
◦Make sure you have the barrel cleaned and any solvents removed or neutralized in the bore.
◦Apply the lubricant-bore treatment (we recommend Weapon Shield).
◦Dry the bore with a clean dry patch.
◦Use the quality ammunition of your choice and fire ONE round.
2.Repeat Step 1 for the next 24 rounds.
3.At round 25, repeat Step 1. Change from firing ONE round to THREE.
4.Repeat Step 3 until you have fired 50 rounds total.
5.At round 51, repeat Step 1. Change from firing THREE rounds to FIVE.
6.Repeat Step 5 until you have fired 100 rounds total.
7.After firing 100 rounds total clean and treat the bore as in Step 1, then fire for a group. Your barrel is now broken in.
You may choose to use another method if you wish. Again, if you do choose a different method, or choose to accelerate the process this does not void your warranty. We do not recommend lapping of the barrel.
Barrel Break-in
There are many ways that people recommend to break in their barrels. The following is our recommended method, but certainly not required. Additionally, your warranty does not hinge on this method of break in. We have many customers who shoot sub-minute of angle from their standard button-rifled AR-15 barrels and have done NOTHING special with regards to break in.
A note of warning: Breaking in a barrel does not make a barrel inherently more accurate. What it will do is make it more consistent throughout it's life, allow it to consistently meet the barrels highest level of inherent accuracy, and give it's longest life. For these reasons we do recommend a good quality break in procedure. We will not attempt to go into great detail with regards to why this is important. Nor will we describe what it does to the barrel as far as breaking it in or any more of the more scientific reasons and effects of this procedure. Many volumes of books have been written with regards to break-in and we will not attempt to rewrite any of it.
Fire, Clean, Treat, Lubricate and Fire Method
1.Clean the barrel well.
◦Make sure the patches come out clean and white.
◦Use the cleaner of your choice (do not use ammonia-based cleaners). Use of a lead or copper solvent is okay, but use only when necessary.
◦Make sure you have the barrel cleaned and any solvents removed or neutralized in the bore.
◦Apply the lubricant-bore treatment (we recommend Weapon Shield).
◦Dry the bore with a clean dry patch.
◦Use the quality ammunition of your choice and fire ONE round.
2.Repeat Step 1 for the next 24 rounds.
3.At round 25, repeat Step 1. Change from firing ONE round to THREE.
4.Repeat Step 3 until you have fired 50 rounds total.
5.At round 51, repeat Step 1. Change from firing THREE rounds to FIVE.
6.Repeat Step 5 until you have fired 100 rounds total.
7.After firing 100 rounds total clean and treat the bore as in Step 1, then fire for a group. Your barrel is now broken in.
You may choose to use another method if you wish. Again, if you do choose a different method, or choose to accelerate the process this does not void your warranty. We do not recommend lapping of the barrel.
Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
Not sure how sending lead down a pipe WOULDN'T add to bore wear?
With some F Open and popular magnum chambering eating up a bore in 700 to 800rds, breaking in a barrel with 100rds BEFORE any type of load development (likely another 100rds), seems a bit wasteful
BUT, that is entirely up to the end user to decide.
Jerry
With some F Open and popular magnum chambering eating up a bore in 700 to 800rds, breaking in a barrel with 100rds BEFORE any type of load development (likely another 100rds), seems a bit wasteful
BUT, that is entirely up to the end user to decide.
Jerry
What does a barrel look like when looking through a microscope? depending on how the barrel was finished will depend on how the bore surface looks. some barrels are not finished very well and have little metal jags sticking up from the manufacturing process, these little jags peal copper off the jacket as the jacket passes by, that copper stays in the barrel and can build up. if you clean that copper off, the next bullet passing by will lay those jags down a bit more and then a bit more, if you don't clean the copper off then it builds up and builds up and can affect size and shape of the next bullet passing by. Great barrels are often lapped or have extremely fine finishes and have no little metal jags stick up so the first shot lays down little to no copper. As you can see it totally depends on the barrel. In fact no two barrels are a like. what affects accuracy is copper build up in the barrel, you need to do all you can to mitigate that.
I was about to say the same thing, take a hand lapped match grade barrel, they are smooth as a babies bottom, the only thing you may be breaking in is the lands slightly. then you take a factory Remington that is the last barrel made off a particular reamer, I have had several. during break in (i shoot 20 single shot clean then 20 3 round clean, if its still really hard to clean shoot 5 shot groups while building up hand loads and clean every group) I have done this process while shooting through a chrono graph and i have seen changes in the first 20 rounds up to 130 fps....... so if you think barrel break-in is a joke.... im not buying . in the first firings the copper and power residue can lay under the jags being bent over in the barrel. once the steel has layed over the copper/powder mix you will have a difficult time removing it. this will lead to corrosion in the barrel reducing barrel life and causing inconsistency. also it makes a big difference for how easy it is to clean your rifle in the future.
just my opinion of course...
