Barrel length/fluting and effects on accuracy

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cammer

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I realize that removing weight from a benchrest rifle is not something that is often done but I figured that you guys would be the most qualified to answer my questions.

I currently have a Ruger M77 MKII Target in 22-250. It is a 10lb+ gun with scope. It gets carried more than it gets shot off of bags and usually I am following a pack of hounds. Anyone have opinions as to whether it is worth trying to lighten this rifle or if I should sell it on CGN and look for something lighter?

I would be interested in thoughts on the following:

-fluting the barrel
-shortening the barrel (currently 26")
-putting the laminate stock on a diet

How much effect will any/all of those have on wieght? Accuracy?

I am able to do the wood work myself. Any suggestions on smiths to do the barrel work?

Thanks in advance.

Cam
 
I would guess about a pound + could be shaved off by turning the barrel lighter and drilling the stock without too much loss of accuracy... I wouldn't suggest shorter than 24 inches in that caliber... I don't think fluting would be as effective...

I would recommend buying a lighter rifle... less bulky to start with...
 
I agree with Jerry and Dennis.

Fluting saves little and is NOT recommended for a button rifled barrel. Cost $150-250

Shortening the barrel will help, but may affect balance, if you're prepared to look at those extreme measures, you'd be better off with rifle specifically for the purpose. Sell it and get a purpose-built rifle.

As for a gunsmith, Dennis (Guntech),Mick McPhee, Bill Mackereth, Dave Jennings, Corlane Sports etc...
 
Faced this decision with one of my rifles a number of years ago. The first thing that occurs to me now is that one can easily introduce problems with any of the modifications suggested. At the time, I was reluctant to have the barrel turned down because I was concerned with introducing problems if the job wasn't done accurately and I was concerned about losing velocity by cutting the barrel down. So, went with fluting and the smith allowed his cutter to chatter while grooving the barrel. Part of the explanation was his going too deep (I wanted quite a bit of weight reduction and didn't think of this happening.). The rifle worked OK and accuracy was still acceptable, but I was never pleased with the barrel from then on. If I were going to do it all over again I think I would just shorten the barrel. I just think it is easier to do a decent job than with either of the other two alternatives and I think velocity losses are usually minimal unless you do something really radical. Had a friend who shortened his around the same time and velocity loss wasn't all that much. Things worked out fine for him. On the other hand, there is the option offered by Mystic Player. Maybe that's the best one.
 
My understanding is that the best accuracy from the barrel is realized when it is cut so the tightest portion of the bore is at the muzzle. If this length coincides with a short stiff barrel, all is good.
 
Thanks for all of the advice. All of the answers were exactly as expected but - admittedly - not what I wanted to hear. I didn't want to see the Ruger go but there is definitely not room in my safe for a rifle that I am not going to use.

I have been thinking about going with a Savage 16 in 22-250. I have a Model 111 in 300WM that is a great shooter and would like the stainless that the 16 offers.

Now, what am I going to do about a decent stock for that 16...?

Thanks again.
Cam
 
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