Barrel Lining Smith

I note McMaster does not deliver to residential addresses in Canada.

Another option is kbctools.ca.
 
antiqueguy said:
Seen a few guys using those bits for full length mainly when reaming out old muzzleloader barrels to rebore/reline.
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I'm not saying you can't do it by any means.

When TOW was still shipping liners to Canada, I picked up a few in different calibers.

tiriaq is telling you how it is.

22 liners, unless you special order a larger diameter can be drilled out with a hand drill. I've done it. Not the best method but if you're careful and only doing a one off, go for it.

Anything larger shouldn't be attempted for safety concerns even if it is possible to drill larger holes with a hand held drill.

I saw one done in four inch stages on a drill press, with the table rotated to a 90 degree angle and the vice holding the barrel bolted to it.

The fellow who did the job went to a lot of work, making up four inch extensions which were drilled and tapped on opposite ends.

He made up one each 6 in, 8 in, 12 in and four 4 in extensions, then drilled and tapped the end of his bit. It worked, but it was a lot of fiddling and not something that most smiths would do because of how much time was involved.
 
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tiriaq said:
Track makes it clear on their website that they do not export liners.
Their liners are made by a business in Tennessee(?). There is a Cdn company who imports these liners. Priced per inch, they are not inexpensive.
A liner drill sized for the liner is required. If one cannot be purchased ready to go, a drill of the appropriate size can be altered with a pilot ground on it, the cutting edges reground and an extension added.
I have installed both small .22 liners, nominal 5/16 diameter, and centerfire ones, .500 in diameter. The challenging part is getting the liner and drill. Once these are on hand, running the drill through the barrel and bonding in the liner are pretty straightforward. Once the liner is in place, reaming the chamber and making extractor cuts are no different than fitting a new barrel. Vintage barrels tend to be rather mild steel, and easy to machine. The hole doesn't need to be reamed - as drilled is fine. If anything the minor marks left by the drill help the bonding agent adhere to the barrel.
The cost of the drill, liner and chambering reamer are going to be significant; then there is the charge for installation.
I have a Remington Model 1 1/2 in .32RF with attractive exterior and horrible bore. Great candidate for lining and centerfire conversion. Never been able to talk myself into buying the necessary liner and tooling.
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The company that makes barrel linners is : T. J . 's In Alexandria , KY. 3652 Neitner Road . Zip Code 41001.
Phone # 859-635-5560. Ask for Mike Sayers .I have made several orders to them for linners. Sometimes they shipped to Canada and
sometimes not. I have also had their linners shipped from Track of the The Wolf. ,,,,,, BUT laws keep changing
They have a full list of linners available.
 
Heard that they have shipped in the past. No harm in asking. TJ's liners are hammer forged. Most others are buttoned. Buttoned .22 liners 5/16" in diameter can show the rifling pattern on the exterior of the tube.
Further to the discussion of liners, I have installed tubes in ML shotgun barrels. Pulled a .750" diameter reamer through the 12ga barrel with an electric drill, then bonded in a length of seamless 4130 Cr-Mo aircraft tubing. Machined the end of the tube to match the face of the breech plug, then smeared the bore and liner with JB Weld. Pushed it it a bit too far, then turned the breech plug in. The plug forced the liner forward, so the face of the plug was in hard contact with the liner. Worked well.
When installing a liner, be sure to plug the bore to keep bonding agent out of the bore.
 
I am surprised that no one has suggested pulling a drill down the barrel. I have sleeved 2 or 3 barrels that way. I have turned a series of D bit type reamers and threaded them on to a long shaft. The barrel is mounted on the T slotted base of the cross feed and the drill turned by the lathe. It is important to taper both ends of the D bits because guaranteed you (or definitely me) will try to drill to far before clearing the chips and twist the D bit off the shaft. The short taper on the back of the bit allows me to drive the bit backwards out of the barrel without it digging into the hole already drilled. It also takes a series of drills to reach the desired diameter and I have a short pilot section on the front of the D bit and they do seem to follow the bore accurately. Obviously you have to start with a caliber over 30 cal I have used bearing retaining Loktite to hold the liner in place. The D bits in the photo below were made before I realized the need to taper the trailing end

cheers mooncoon

iV6WIKJ.jpg
 
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