Barrel temperature, or quality of ammunition?
- Thread starter lgannon
- Start date
I doubt that barrel temperature is relevant. Don't waste money on any temperature gauge.
Groups sound sort of average.
I would suggest getting some true .308 match ammunition, and very carefully trying the rifle with that. Hornady 155gr Match, and their 168gr TAP rounds seem to be outstanding.
What kind of scope are you using?
You do not mention the sort of groups that you can shoot with other rifles of known accuracy. The shooter is always a factor.
Groups sound sort of average.
I would suggest getting some true .308 match ammunition, and very carefully trying the rifle with that. Hornady 155gr Match, and their 168gr TAP rounds seem to be outstanding.
What kind of scope are you using?
You do not mention the sort of groups that you can shoot with other rifles of known accuracy. The shooter is always a factor.
Agreed, the ammo you are using is quite average hunting ammo, the bullets will not give you match results. Buy one box of match ammo and try a couple of 5 shot groups, that should give you a clear indication of how the rifle/shooter perform
ultimate_monkey
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Another vote for the ammo, ####ty ammo = ####ty groups, I have my 5r bedded and the trigger lightened, with a 175SMK over 42.5gn varget at .015 off the lands the rifle will shoot .5moa at 100 yds and at 300 I have managed groups at .5moa as well and I feel that useing sand bags would shrink the groups just a hair aswell
Redding is my preferance for quality.
But RCBS will do just fine.
There are many, many tricks of the trade so to speak, to create accurate ammo.
Buy and read multiple manuals.
If you are going to a gun show, buy a few older manuals. They sometimes have really good info thats left out of newer version.
Accuracy is about consistancy in ammunition/firearm/shooter.
If you want the basic 1" group at 100, that shouldnt take long to achieve.
But if you want to keep sub MOA at extended ranges, thats were the "sum of all the little things you do" will get you there.
Talk to lots of experienced reloaders, and take what you feel is sound info and try it.
The thing to remember is when you have a good result at the range, it means very little unless you can repeat it at least three times.
Buy yourself a Chronygraph. They are one of the most important tools to have (even if you dont reload).
Ask some of us Gunnutz for our thoughts and Ideas.
There is some very talented shooters/reloaders on this site!
Its helped me imensely.
Have fun and straight shoot'in!
But RCBS will do just fine.
There are many, many tricks of the trade so to speak, to create accurate ammo.
Buy and read multiple manuals.
If you are going to a gun show, buy a few older manuals. They sometimes have really good info thats left out of newer version.
Accuracy is about consistancy in ammunition/firearm/shooter.
If you want the basic 1" group at 100, that shouldnt take long to achieve.
But if you want to keep sub MOA at extended ranges, thats were the "sum of all the little things you do" will get you there.
Talk to lots of experienced reloaders, and take what you feel is sound info and try it.
The thing to remember is when you have a good result at the range, it means very little unless you can repeat it at least three times.
Buy yourself a Chronygraph. They are one of the most important tools to have (even if you dont reload).
Ask some of us Gunnutz for our thoughts and Ideas.
There is some very talented shooters/reloaders on this site!
Its helped me imensely.
Have fun and straight shoot'in!
I took out my new 700 5R three weeks ago. With 168 gr SMK in WW brass over 46gr of WW 748, OAL 2.810", I got consistent 0.6" groups at 100 m. These are my "general purpose" reloads and not tuned to the new rifle by any means. Buy yourself Federal 168 gr match ammo just to try and see what the rifle/shooter/scope combination can do but, by all means, get into reloading as recommended by others here. I have used RCBS, Redding, Lee and Bonanza dies and other reloading equipment and frankly I have not seen any superiority of one over the other. I have used the competition dies by Bonanza and Redding for .308 and the RCBS for .223 and I am very happy with all. The latter, with its micrometer and in-line seating die is particularly easy and fast to use. You will be neck sizing so a good quality die (I use the Lee collet) is a necessity but after several firings you will need to full resize so you need both types.
Good luck and enjoy your new rifle
Good luck and enjoy your new rifle
Trimming to length and neck sizing works. However, as the brass is fired, expands to fill the chamber, then retracts again, some work hardening takes place. My .308 target rifle has a tight chamber and after three or four firings and neck sizing I have a hell of a time to chamber the round. Maybe if I marked the orientation of the case in the chamber the problem would be reduced but who the heck wants to do this, takes the fun out of shooting. I am also told by some benchrest guys that after several neck sizings only, the accuracy drops and they have to full length resize to bring the case back to minimal SAAMI chamber dimensions. I cannot verify this because I don't shoot .250" groups at 200 m
Militiades:
After multiple firings & neck sizing, normally some of the cases will start to become tight.
Just set your full length die so that you have about 1.5 turns away from the shell holder when the press ram is fully extended.
Then size a case.
Try the sized case in the rifle (empty of course).
It will/should be tight still.(thats O.K.)
then adjust the die closer to the ram (fully extended again) by 1/8 turn.
Size the "same case", and try it in the rifle.
Repeat this prosess until "that case" suddenly chambers just right.
Set your die lock ring.
This die is now set for that rifle.
Size the rest of your tight cases at this die setting.
This essentially just bumps the case shoulder and taper just enough to function properly.
Then shoot and neck size as normal.
Every now and then, "bump" full length size them again to regain proper function.
Doing this does a couple of things,
1.) minimizes the amount of sizing the case goes through, thus reducing "some" case fatigue.
2.) preserves the "majority" of the fireformed cases bore alignment.
If this sounds interesting to you, give it a try.
Its worked for me for at least 25years.
If any of you other gunnutz have something to add for lgannon, feel free.
There are many ways to skin the cat, and this is only one of them.
After multiple firings & neck sizing, normally some of the cases will start to become tight.
Just set your full length die so that you have about 1.5 turns away from the shell holder when the press ram is fully extended.
Then size a case.
Try the sized case in the rifle (empty of course).
It will/should be tight still.(thats O.K.)
then adjust the die closer to the ram (fully extended again) by 1/8 turn.
Size the "same case", and try it in the rifle.
Repeat this prosess until "that case" suddenly chambers just right.
Set your die lock ring.
This die is now set for that rifle.
Size the rest of your tight cases at this die setting.
This essentially just bumps the case shoulder and taper just enough to function properly.
Then shoot and neck size as normal.
Every now and then, "bump" full length size them again to regain proper function.
Doing this does a couple of things,
1.) minimizes the amount of sizing the case goes through, thus reducing "some" case fatigue.
2.) preserves the "majority" of the fireformed cases bore alignment.
If this sounds interesting to you, give it a try.
Its worked for me for at least 25years.
If any of you other gunnutz have something to add for lgannon, feel free.
There are many ways to skin the cat, and this is only one of them.
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That's a nice way to minimize case hardening and preserving chamber fit. Thanks. I haven't used this method for some years because of differences among different brand of cases I was using back then and forgot the technique. Now I tend to stick to one brand and buy a couple of hundred of the same lot so it will be just right.
Trigger son, trigger...........
Heavy or poorly adjusted triggers are hell on shooting good groups. You can have all kinds of good ammo but if you are pulling the rifle trying to make the trigger break............. BAD BAD BAD.
Heavy or poorly adjusted triggers are hell on shooting good groups. You can have all kinds of good ammo but if you are pulling the rifle trying to make the trigger break............. BAD BAD BAD.
Ducimus:
Bumping every time is a good idea as well. Especially with match chambers.
You stated : Does neck sizing make a difference in a match barrel?
yep!
In a match barrel, it makes "less" difference because tolerances,misalignment, and clearances are already minimized.
But the sum of all those little variables equal a big result in consistancy.
Therefore neck sizing tends to result in a much more significant difference in a standard chamber "normally".( Tolerances,misalignment, and clearances are more loosely controlled to facilitate ease of function).
Case/Bore alignment is beneficial to almost all rifles.
Thats my take on that.
Bumping every time is a good idea as well. Especially with match chambers.
You stated : Does neck sizing make a difference in a match barrel?
yep!
In a match barrel, it makes "less" difference because tolerances,misalignment, and clearances are already minimized.
But the sum of all those little variables equal a big result in consistancy.
Therefore neck sizing tends to result in a much more significant difference in a standard chamber "normally".( Tolerances,misalignment, and clearances are more loosely controlled to facilitate ease of function).
Case/Bore alignment is beneficial to almost all rifles.
Thats my take on that.
