Basic milsurp wood repair and tlc

I sense another thread that should be stickied!
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Hugh,

I did a forestock replacement on one of my Ross Rifles. I managed to find walnut of the same grain. I used a narrow curved bladed knife to cut a rough barrel channel. Then I used a 6" piece of 3/8 dowel wrapped with sand paper to clean and widen the channel. I joined the old stock and new stock together under the barrel band.

Here is a photo of the stock before the outside of the replacement piece has been sanded.
rossjan291ej3.jpg
 
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Steppenwolf said:
Hugh,

I did a forestock replacement on one of my Ross Rifles. I managed to find walnut of the same grain. I used a narrow curved bladed knife to cup a rough barrel channel. Then I used a 6" piece of 3/8 dowel wrapped with snad paper to clean and widen the channel. I joined the old stock and new stock together under the barrel band.

Here is a photo of the stock before the outside of the replacement piece has been sanded.
rossjan291ej3.jpg
Click to expand...

All done with hand tools I'm assuming?

Do you have any pictures of the join you used? I was thinking something similar to a mortice and tennon, but as it's going to be covered anyways I'm not too worried.
 
H Wally said:
Well - got the stock stripped down this afternoon.

Here are the new markings that showed up. From left to right, 7 41, Z, two indistinguishable markings that don't really show up, and finally, a faint star just behind the trigger guard.

rossstock008.jpg
Click to expand...

That almost looks like a maple leaf. It would make sense.
 
Steppenwolf said:
Hugh.

I drilled a 1/4" - 1" deep hole, lengthway in each piece. I used Gorilla glue with 1/4" dowel.
Click to expand...

That would be a lot easier.

Went out looking at various dies etc today as well, liked the look of minwax, but it said that it should only be applied on bare wood, so I guess linseed oil wouldn't work with it. Is it possible to bring an untouched piece of walnut to the same colour using repeated coats of linseed oil?
 
I have tried matching up pieces of wood. First of all, try to find a piece as close as possible to original. This may mean that you have to strip down a bit of the original where it won't show, if you don't want to remove original finish. If you do want to refinish original, strip it down first & then match. Because it hardly ever matches exactly, I then start with stains. I like miniwax, but have also used others. There are liquid stains and paste stains & I have used both and mixed to get colours I want. If you have a bit extra of the new wood, experiment on it until you get what you want. Better to start wilth a little lighter colour and add more coats to suit. If you need more brown add cedar more reddish, mahogany, darker, walnut etc. Two manufacturer's stains of the same name will not produce the same colour, you have to experiment. Once the wood looks the same, start with the Boiled Linseed or I prefer Tung oil. It be harder to match a finsihed stock than if you are trying to match two stripped pieces.
 
I wouldn't use stain at all. It SUCKS on hardwood. Look for some oil-based leather dye - works much better.

Also, if you look around, you may find some north american walnut that is already a close enough match - then you just need oil, not stains.
 
I may have just the guy that could help me with that, will have to wait until the summer for it though. Also know some good old fashioned shoe makers in the same area that would likely just let me skim the dregs from some bottles if I explained what I was up to.

Almost forgot - I went out today looking for BLO, Canadian tire, home depot, and a few smaller stores didn't have it. I'm limited in movement, but any ideas on where it's usually available?
 
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