Bayonet Pattern 1907 Lithgow 1916

amiga

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I have an bayonet I don't know much about but have found some stuff on the net about it...A Pattern 1907 bayonet for the Lee Enfield #1MkIII .303 rifle. Australian WWI issue. Made by Lithgow in 1916.

What the 3MD stand for in front of Serial #?

Early Lithgow inspection mark, Lithgow manufacture mark,Early Lithgow proof mark, Bend test mark, proof
.....and wonder what it is worth.. not bad shape, lot of bluing on the blade,! nick in blade ,different # on blade and scabbard

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I think the "3MD" stands for "3rd Military District". The number beside it is probably a unit marking.

It looks like the blade was blued and re-used for WW2 service but that is not uncommon for Australia as their bayonets and SMLEs are quite well made. It also has a scabbard which is typical of the post WW1 style. I find this type of scabbard quite robust so I would not have any hesitations taking it into the field.

I have a Sanderson made 1918 blade that went a similar route after WW1 but it went down to South Africa and was used a heck of a lot as the wood grips are nearly gone on it. Blade is sharper than any kitchen knife I have run across so I could shave with it in the field if I wanted :D.
 
3MD = third military district, headquartered in Melbourne, Australia.

It's probably worth around $100 assuming it's not been sharpened.
 
It does not look like it it has been sharpened....How do i tell? There is 1 pic of the blade ,Tell me what you think.
or what to look for..............Thanks
 
Look at the edge of the blade and examine it closely. If you notice any nicks or pitting on the blade, follow it and see if the pitting forms on top of the sharpened edge. You can also run your finger along the sharpened edge to feel for any imperfections and to see if it has been sharpened recently.

From what I can see, it doesn't look re-sharpened to me.
 
x2 if it has been re-sharpened it was very well done. From the bayo tip down through where the edge curves will be "tell tale" as that is the most difficult place to keep things uniform. Also focus on where the edge ends near the handle there shouldn't be any weird angles to the edge as it finishes. Imho
 
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