BC Gunsmiths to bore out a muzzle brake?

[tiriaq]

Four thou total clearance is less than I use, but if it works for you, great!

 

[I Dont Care About You]

Easy Peasy ! Align it up in a drill press vise and drill it yourself

This. The drill bit will follow the existing hole.

He did my sks brake and installed the hical mag adapted.

Priced really great too! 88 dollars for the threading of the Barrell and install of the muzzle brake.

Faaak, I threaded two SKS and have no desire to do any more. Threading right up to the spinning front sight is just a wee bit stressful to say the least. One wrong move and bad sh!t is gonna happen.

 

[cueball]

I might be late to the game, but what about unscrewing the brake and taking it to a local machine shop? Should be relatively easily for them and they have all the equipment.

 

[SigWig]

Spencer at Ascent Firearms in Coombs on the Island is your man.

Tag for later

 

[Crraved]

Vancouver gun lab located in burnaby, bits of pieces in delta or rusty wood trading in mission

Do you have any experience with Vancouver gun lab? They seem to do good work but there aren't that many reviews out there for them

 

[wildhog007]

Do you have any experience with Vancouver gun lab? They seem to do good work but there aren't that many reviews out there for them

No experience with them sorry.

 

[struff55]

Well maybe for you but I know I could drill it out strait with a cobalt drill bit
Yes a lathe is better but it’s not hard to do in a good drill press vise and.
Plus 020 thou would be as tight as I would go ! JMO

Glad you explained how a muzzle brake functions

ya thanks for the enlightenment i only built about 60 rifles in my life time
Bubba is alive and well on gun stupid

 

[remington jim]

ya thanks for the enlightenment i only built about 60 rifles in my life time
Bubba is alive and well on gun stupid

Yes you certainly ARE Bubba

 

[kamlooky]

If I had to open out a brake and did not have the barrel, I would chuck up a piece of scrap, and thread it to fit the brake. Mount the brake on the threaded spud, then bore it out. At least the bore of the brake would be coaxial with the threads.

Well that’s just plain good thinking.
Thanks for the tip.

 

[woodchopper]

If I had to open out a brake and did not have the barrel, I would chuck up a piece of scrap, and thread it to fit the brake. Mount the brake on the threaded spud, then bore it out. At least the bore of the brake would be coaxial with the threads.

I have 3 of those made up, about 6 inches long and in 1/2" 9/16" and 5/8" threaded,

also very useful to drill all the holes when set up in a rotary table on the milling machine.

 

[DeadShot519]

Use a drill press. Get set up by using a drill bit that is size for size with your current bore diameter. Then switch to the drill bit size you’re looking for finish with. This will get you as true to center as any home lathe out there. Then drill. I could probably have done it physically faster than it took my fat fingers to type this.

 

[Licensed to kill]

Don’t know anything about brakes but but it seems to me that, if the brake was made “properly”, the bore should be perfectly concentric with the body and therefore, if you chuck it up in a 4 jaw, perfectly centred with a dial indicator on the outside it will be perfectly centred on tje inside then just open it up with a boring bar, polish and done. The only need I can think of for having it screwed to the barrel for this (avian, assuming it was made concentric in tje first place) is if the outside of the brake is such that it dies not have partaken sides long enough to ensure a square set in the chuck. I must be missing something because this seems about as simple a mod there is. While I have no use for or desire for a brake, I would appreciate those “Im the know” can show what I am missing/overlooking.

 

[remington jim]

Don’t know anything about brakes but but it seems to me that, if the brake was made “properly”, the bore should be perfectly concentric with the body and therefore, if you chuck it up in a 4 jaw, perfectly centred with a dial indicator on the outside it will be perfectly centred on tje inside then just open it up with a boring bar, polish and done. The only need I can think of for having it screwed to the barrel for this (avian, assuming it was made concentric in tje first place) is if the outside of the brake is such that it dies not have partaken sides long enough to ensure a square set in the chuck. I must be missing something because this seems about as simple a mod there is. While I have no use for or desire for a brake, I would appreciate those “Im the know” can show what I am missing/overlooking.

why do you " Might think your missing/overlooking anything " ? see post #54

 

[I Dont Care About You]

if you chuck it up in a 4 jaw, perfectly centred with a dial indicator on the outside it will be perfectly centred on tje inside then just open it up with a boring bar, polish and done.

Boring bars are not made that small.

There is a way around that problem but the easiest method is to just run a drill down the hole. The drill will follow the existing hole.

 

[DeadShot519]

^ although I do have boring bars down to 1/4” I would definitely just run a drill thru the hole. I think some of y’all are overthinking this. The current hole is center. Chase it with another drill to open it up and it’s going to be center. You would have to put some serious effort in to f*c* this up. It would take a true trained moron.

 

[woodchopper]

yup my smallest boring bat is 6mm.

I set up a brake in the lathe and then drill them out, just not all at once. I will use multiple bits and then come up to the last one.

this is one of the latest one that I am experimenting with, its still pretty dirty, I just did a heat blackening, heat it up with the torch and then plunge it into light oil.

 

[I Dont Care About You]

^ although I do have boring bars down to 1/4” I would definitely just run a drill thru the hole. I think some of y’all are overthinking this. The current hole is center. Chase it with another drill to open it up and it’s going to be center. You would have to put some serious effort in to f*c* this up. It would take a true trained moron.

A 1/4" boring bar is teeny. At that size I'd mount an end mill into a tool holder and use that as an ersatz boring bar. Its a wee bit janky but it works just fine.

 

[guntech]

This. The drill bit will follow the existing hole.

If you think a drill will follow an existing hole, please explain how a pilotless drill will wander off while drilling a bore out for a liner. It requires a pilot on the drill to stay on track... and I have done many.

Concentricity based on the actual bore is all important with brakes. One reason why many prefer to dial the bore in, thread the muzzle, fit the brake and lastly bore the brake clearance. It's the easiest way to achieve the best results.

.22 brakes were the smallest I bored... drilled out 20 thou undersize and then finish bored a few thou at a time.

 

[fingers284]

If you think a drill will follow an existing hole, please explain how a pilotless drill will wander off while drilling a bore out for a liner. It requires a pilot on the drill to stay on track... and I have done many.

Lot of difference between drilling a hole less than 3 inches in depth to one 20 inches deep.

 

[Licensed to kill]

If you think a drill will follow an existing hole, please explain how a pilotless drill will wander off while drilling a bore out for a liner. It requires a pilot on the drill to stay on track... and I have done many.

Concentricity based on the actual bore is all important with brakes. One reason why many prefer to dial the bore in, thread the muzzle, fit the brake and lastly bore the brake clearance. It's the easiest way to achieve the best results.

.22 brakes were the smallest I bored... drilled out 20 thou undersize and then finish bored a few thou at a time.

What do you know??, You are just an actual gunsmith that has actually done this successfully several times FOR A LIVING