in your opinion do you think small base dies are going to be required or will fl sizing be enough ???
I've never needed small base dies to load for any semi auto I've owned and that includes around ten AR-15's, both my ACR's (6 different barrels), Three HK SL8-4's, AR180B-2, my Swiss Arms, a couple AR-10's, three M305's, my RFB, and my Modern Hunter. I always suggest that people try regular dies first and if there are problems with chambering then try small base. All you can do is try and see if it works. It's starting to sound like these rifles are not very consistent from one rifle to the next so even if regular dies work fine for one person they may not work for the next.
The most important thing is to full length size every time. I've known a few guys that tried to reload for their semi the same as they do for their precision bolt action and it just won't work if you only neck size them. Also remember that these are not precision bolt actions, you have to consider the needs of the gas system which means keeping projectile weight in range with what they were designed for which means 147-180 grain projectiles and a powder with a burn rate slightly slower for the projectile weight. I've seen them function outside that range but if you go too heavy it can be hard on the rifle and cause functional issues with high bolt speeds.
(no I don't still own all those rifles but I handloaded for all of them)
And of course Jerry is 100% correct, your bullet tip should not contact the feed ramp at all while chambering if everything is set up correctly. An out of spec mag or a projectile loaded too far out may change that and cause issues but the bullet tip shouldn't contact the ramp. Crimping is mostly to prevent the bullets from being pushed into the case while they are in the magazine and the rifle moves backward under recoil and the cartridges don't move until they are pushed by the front of the magazine hitting the bullet tip, same idea as to why you push your scope/optic mount forward on the rail till it stops before tightening it down so it doesn't shift forward when the rifle recoils.
I did notice that my break is not perfectly square to the barrel - indexed perfectly. Wonder if that has a bit to do with it.
That shouldn't affect accuracy unless you mean not square as in cross threaded and maybe the bullet is striking the brake. Have a look at your brake, it should be very obvious if there has been contact with the projectile.
It's a brake not a break by the way, and yes it makes a difference even though we all know what you are talking about. Sorry, just a little pet peeve of mine.
I use small base dies for loading semi. Is it needed?? I don't know but it's what i did for my 305 and what I'm doing for the 102. Same with factory crimp I do it to all my semi loads some say it's good some say it's bad. Personally I would load with what you have and see how it works for you and you rifle.
Good, bad? it depends what you are doing it for, typically it seems that crimping reduces accuracy slightly from my experience but at the same time it can be necessary with some rifles to prevent projectile push back or just to make your neck tension a little more consistent. If you are using one and are happy with the results you are getting then keep doing it. I own a factory crimp die for 223, 300BLK, 6.8 SPC, and 308win but have only used the one for the 300BLK so far and it did reduce my accuracy slightly but not enough that I was concerned about it.
I tend to agree. I am going to try without crimping first because adding crimping to the equation complicates things and can result in differing velocities due to minute length differences and/or brass thickness or hardness. If racking rounds in the chamber pushes bullets in I will crimp them. How do you like the factory crimp die?
That's the best thing about the factory crimp die, case length does not affect the crimp given as the die bottoms out on the shell holder to create the squeeze around the entire neck, it doesn't rely on the case moving up into a constriction to create the pressure.