bedding a 98
- Thread starter bingo1010
- Start date
- Location
- Ft. Mac. Alberta
Make sure you either tape the back of the tang so after the bedding you can take the tape off and have some clearance, or remove some bedding after you
bed it is set up.
Otherwise you may crack the stock at the wrist.
Cat
bed it is set up.
Otherwise you may crack the stock at the wrist.
Cat
- Location
- Ft. Mac. Alberta
Nope, becuae the front end actually fits into the recoil lug anyway!
Cat
Cat
gunasauras
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Western Manitoba
If you are bedding an area, relieve the area so there is lots of room for bedding compound....too thin a coat of compound could mean it'll flake on you. The rougher you leave the area to be bedded the better too. You'll get better adhesion between the compound and stock that way.....
bingo....another way
1--If there is a small tube/pillar or what ever you call it on your Parker Hale floor plate that the front action screw runs thru CUT IT OFF with a hacksaw then file the area you cut flush and smooth...
2--Cover that area and rear screw hole in the floor plate with scotch tape...
3--Knock that steel tubing out of the rear and drill a hole that just fits inside inletting..ie larger than the old hole that the tubing was in..
4--Then tape your floor plate into place with a heavier tape....
5--Put your bedding in place (does'nt leak out of the screw holes cause of the tape) I used Industro Weld (JB weld)
6--mount barreled action in bedding
7--Use a small sharp blade and cut a slit in the scotch tape for the action screws to go in..I use the factory stock screws covered with Trewax tightned just snug (fill screw holes with wax also)...no need for headless screws ...after about 4 hrs give the screws a little turn so they will come lose later
8-- you end up with epoxy pillars and I found it to be way easier....drill out the screw holes to one size larger than the screws......
This method is not my idea as a friend told me about it.... I just finished doing two Huskys and a Brno...I'm very satisfied with the results...good luck and have fun!~~~~
1--If there is a small tube/pillar or what ever you call it on your Parker Hale floor plate that the front action screw runs thru CUT IT OFF with a hacksaw then file the area you cut flush and smooth...
2--Cover that area and rear screw hole in the floor plate with scotch tape...
3--Knock that steel tubing out of the rear and drill a hole that just fits inside inletting..ie larger than the old hole that the tubing was in..
4--Then tape your floor plate into place with a heavier tape....
5--Put your bedding in place (does'nt leak out of the screw holes cause of the tape) I used Industro Weld (JB weld)
6--mount barreled action in bedding
7--Use a small sharp blade and cut a slit in the scotch tape for the action screws to go in..I use the factory stock screws covered with Trewax tightned just snug (fill screw holes with wax also)...no need for headless screws ...after about 4 hrs give the screws a little turn so they will come lose later
8-- you end up with epoxy pillars and I found it to be way easier....drill out the screw holes to one size larger than the screws......
This method is not my idea as a friend told me about it.... I just finished doing two Huskys and a Brno...I'm very satisfied with the results...good luck and have fun!~~~~
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The part which is the most problem on a Parker hale is the trigger housing. The tang actually sits on the trigger housing so it is the housing which is bedded to the stock. The trigger housing must be held up against the tang positively. This can be done in a number of ways but the use of a steel or aluminum pillar is probably as good as any. I have used a guide screw with a step on it to hold the housing up tight against the tang and this worked as well. Regards, Bill.
