Bedding a Mauser 98 - Help

J

Jordan Weber

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So I began to do something that has always given me the herby-jeebys, last night I began the process of glass bedding my new to me Mauser 98 in 6.5 swede. I know it should be a fairly easy job for most, but I had visions of gluing the whole mess together permanently and having the mash the stock off with a hammer.

I used JB quick weld and managed to get a good looking bed around the recoil leg and under the tang, all without gluing the stock to the barrelled action permanently. So I would call that a win.

I used Quick weld assuming the 2400 fish psi strength would be enough. Youtube seemed to agree with me. But maybe the wise gun nuts will not?

One question I have is whether or not I should go to the trouble of bedding the floor plate to the stock as well? There is a pillar in the rear tang action screw hole, and the front is "pillared by the interaction between the floor plate and recoil lug, is there an advantage to bedding the floor plate?

Another is how important the bedding around the tang is? Removing the action was done by prying up on the barrel, and the action kind of rocked up and out of its bedding. The tang bedding doesn't look perfect, but not bad I would say. I should probably try to get some pictures.

Another is how important is it that the bottom of the recoil lug isn't touching, several places I researched after the fact mention that, but I just bedded it in touching. Should I dremel that out and start again with a masking tape space?

Basically Im second guessing if I did it right, but as long as the recoil lug is bedded in nice and snug the rest is pretty negotiable no?
Any help you can give would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
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Don't bother with the floor plate. Pillars can be beneficial if properly set up. However, one can argue that glass bedding around the tang area is one large pillar. Regarding the bottom of the tang, it should be fine - just ensure that the area is clean and free of debris. Go and shoot your rifle - I've seen less than perfect bedding jobs that did wonders...
 
I agree with cosmic - the proof of the job is in the shooting. Some opportunities you might consider, if it doesn't meet your expectations - Verify clearance between the fore stock and the barrel - originals with full stock want a bit of "up" pressure only at the front end of the long stock. Scrape the bottom of the recoil lug bedding with a 1/4" chisel to provide a bit of clearance - .030" -ish. Bed the first inch or two of the barrel ahead of the recoil lug, so there is adequate support both ahead and behind the front action screw. Scrape out some bedding at the back end of the tang - to give .030 or .050 clearance between rear of tang's edge and the bedding. Bed the rear "pillar" but only after wrapping your action screw with a few layers of tape to get that action screw in the middle of, and not touching, the "pillar". Remove the tape once epoxy is set up. And, all of the foregoing can be totally wasted effort, because it might shoot just fine already.
 
Thanks for the feedback guys.

Main reason I bedded it was to make sure I wasn't going to end up with a split stock. As long as its a little more of a solid home for the action I figure it should be better than it was
 
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