Bedding a model 70?

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hawk-i

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I've got a Winchester mid 80's model 70 young ranger in 243 that I'd like to bed using Devcon Alum. putty. Should I bed the complete action including an inch or so in front of the lug or just the lug area to the mag well and a little at the rear tang area. I've read doing just the two small areas will work as good as doing the complete action and is a lot easier. Looking for input from those that have bedded the model 70.
Thanks
 
hawk-i said:
... just the lug area to the mag well and a little at the rear tang area.
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I'm in the less-is-better crowd. Though I'd also include the bottom metal as well as pillars or a substitute. I would also ensure that there is no contact other than with the bedding material.

Note: The stock screws generally have the threads swaged, rather than cut. The diameter at the threaded portion is larger than the shank. Pay attention or the screws can be trapped by the bedding compound.
 
hawk-i said:
I've got a Winchester mid 80's model 70 young ranger in 243 that I'd like to bed using Devcon Alum. putty. Should I bed the complete action including an inch or so in front of the lug or just the lug area to the mag well and a little at the rear tang area. I've read doing just the two small areas will work as good as doing the complete action and is a lot easier. Looking for input from those that have bedded the model 70.
Thanks
Click to expand...


Read BUMs post #3. The only thing I would add to that would be bedding pillars.

Some people even use the bedding compound to fill in the action screw holes to form pillars. Just make sure to use plenty of release agent on the screws, action and trigger guard area on the bottom side as well.

This system seems to work well, first time, every time.

As was mentioned in post #2, less is better but only in some cases. It's fine if you have a stabilized stock. If your stock needs to be refinished as well, that means it should be sealed against the elements too. This should be done before you bed anything.

It doesn't matter how good a bedding job is, if your stock isn't sealed and sucks up moisture, the first time it's out in the sunlight or frozen, it will change everything. Have you noticed how heavily factory finished wood stocks are? That is one reason why so many of them lose accuracy along the way. As the finish wears off, the sealant goes with it and moisture slowly creeps in.

That's why composite and laminated stocks have become so popular.
 
Thanks for the replies, I think I will bed the complete action...I'm doing it in two seperate steps, I've just finished drilling out the action screw holes and bedded in pillars to the height I needed and will next do the action bedding (thought I'd do a better job with less mess this way). So my next question is when applying the two layers of masking tape to the front, bottom, and sides of the recoil lug....do I tape the side of the lug on the vertical flat all the way to end of the mag well or just the 1/4 inch (the width of the lug) back and not worry about leaving clearance on the rest of the vertical flat? Hopefully I've worded this so you understand what I'm asking.
Thanks
 
From the tight fit of my M70 I would hazard a guess that Rick only used a light dusting of fairy dust on the metal. It is TIGHT! It still comes out, but it won't fall out even if you turn the stock upside down. I suppose there's a good reason for that.

When I bedded my M98 I coated the underside of the action with Penaten cream (baby bum cream). Worked like a charm. You don't want too much space between the lug and the bedding or you haven't accomplished a thing.
 
I ended up tapping the front bottom and side of the lug area (only because everything I read says to do so). Seems like it worked out ok, its still a very tight fit. I've only bedded remington and savage actions before this and on both of them the lug is a seperate piece between the action and barrel so I was unsure on the integrated action/lug on the winchester. It looks like the winchester action would be at least twice as stiff as the round remington and savage actions....one would think this would aid in accuracy but yet the round actions seem to dominate in competition.
Anyways, thanks for the comments.
 
A well designed action would not have any vertical surfaces but these surfaces would have a degree or three of draft. This makes the gun easier to take apart when soaked hunting or on the range for dry out etc. When I do a Win I put a layer of tape on these surfaces. The rounded portion is still there to register back into the bedding and when the gun goes back together it does not take a few shots to settle in. The same treatment goes for lugs that don't have draft etc. A few minutes more work but better for the customer on the range or in the field.
 
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