bedding a savage

Big JD-From the hills

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I want to bed my savage 10fp le2b(one with the McMillan stock) Just wondering if anyone could tell me what places to bed, and what to leave? And if there is anything wrong with using bondo glass fliller(the green thick stuff with the fiberglass strands in it) I do have some Brownells gel if the bondo stuff is no good for this aplication.
 
Thats a long one, but to start you off, rear of the recoil lug,and follow back about an inch and half on the flat part, and also the tang. Leave a space forward of the lug, to prevent torque, and place a patch under the chamber area of the barrel, about an inch or so long.
Also remove material in these areas where bedding will go, and tighten the action bolts down 2/3 of the way for the lug , and 1/2 for the tang.
If your job was a success , you will know this when you tighten the bolts down the next day , after cleaning it up, there must be no up and down motion when tightening the bolts, if there is , you messed up , and there is some torque in the action. :)
 
Put 2 layers of tape on the bottom of the recoil lug and 1 layer on the front of the lug. Some rifle shoot better with the barrel completely free floated, some like bedding under the barrel shank. Try it without and if it doesn't shoot like you want, try a bit of bedding under the barrel shank.
 
Thats what I do, use alluminum tape , and after the prep, spray the entire action(metal, action/barrel/bolts) with Maxima chain wax, can get a small spray can at most motorcycle shops(motocross) , this stuff is the very best. :cool:
 
The purpose of leaving a clearance under the recoil lug is to prevent it from bottoming out, or bearing on bedding shavings in the bottom (from taking the action out and putting it back in).
On the first rifle I did, I used tape like the method Maynard suggested, but then I had to use a dental pick to scrape the tape out of the stock. On my other one, I just used a dremel to grind a clearance after the bedding dried.
 
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