Bedding a synthetic stock

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devo20

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thinking about bedding my 10/22, its got a synthetic stock and would really like to keep it. Anyone try to bed a synthetic stock, heard that the bedding compound doesnt stick as well as in a wood stock. Thinking of using Devcon??
Any info would be helpful.
-Thanks-
 
devo20 said:
thinking about bedding my 10/22, its got a synthetic stock and would really like to keep it. Anyone try to bed a synthetic stock, heard that the bedding compound doesnt stick as well as in a wood stock. Thinking of using Devcon??
Any info would be helpful.
-Thanks-
Click to expand...

I am always amazed at the lengths guys go to for their 10/22s. But surprise factor aside, JB Weld is easy to find. Steel or aluminum filled Devcon epoxy works. System West epoxy thickened with colludial silica. Take your pick. What I suspect will give you more trouble is some sort of mould release. My little bottle of Acraglas mould release is getting low.
 
Just use a two part epoxy that has metal shavings init for tensile strength. As for a release agent just put on a couple coats of car wax and buff off just like you would on the car, pops right out after. Be sure to rough up the surface and drill some anchor holes so the epoxy has something to anchor itself to.
 
the stock is not 100% solid there are reliefs in areas that are completley cut out under the barrel area, this is okay right. How much JB weld would I need and would it bond to the synth stock??
 
You may want to rough up the areas where you're going to apply the bedding compound and use a degreaser or non-residue cleaner after roughing to remove the plastic dust. Don't expect a huge improvement in performance. Unless you've already done so, the biggest performance gain with the 10/22 is in changing to a match barrel.
 
I used acraglass in my 10/22 synthetic and it worked very well. I would definetly rough the are in which you are bedding and because it has been hollowed I would also use a moulding clay to contain the bedding compound so you are not bedding the entire forend and it ensures good consistent contact from that area to the barrel.

Brownells acraglass bonds amazingly well to synthetics so no need for drilling your .22LR (unless you really feel it is needed) and it comes in a kit with release agent if ordered as a kit. They have a non-flammable kit that is OK to ship anywhere. Good luck and let us know how you make out with it! :D
 
so you build up the area with the molding clay and than apply the bedding material over the clay?? I would really like to use JB weld, easy to find.
 
You said the area under the barrel is cut out, well you do not need to bed the whole forend of the stock so you will make kind of a retaining wall with clay. You also have to put a release agent on the clay so you can remove it after the bedding compund is hardened.

As far as the JB weld I have only used it in metal on metal situations but I am sure it would work just fine for the application. Follow the directions of dryfire, INTIMIDATOR and maple_leaf_eh and choose which setup would work best. You could always practice using some metal pipe and some wood to test certain release agents.

As mentioned before in this thread I don't know how much accuracy will improve with this but keep us posted.:)
 
so make the bedding section and remove the clay and than re install the bedding in the area in the stock??-not sure what but going to bed the reciever first and re check accuaracy. Want to make a fairly accurate gun with no aftermarket parts, that is my goal.
 
devo20
I appreciate you may not have done bedding before. If you place modelling clay into the action area and build up from that you defeat the purpose of the bedding. The bedding will be swimming on top of the modelling clay.
The clay is used as a dam to retain the bedding compound in the areas that you place it until it cures. Something else you may want to do is apply a band(or several layers) of masking tape around the barrel to center the barreled action in the stock while the curing takes place. You will have to ensure the tape bears on part of the stock which will create this relief.
All the best with your bedding job.
 
I have a synthetic stock so the stock is hollow, I was wondering how to bed the front section of the action with no support under it from the stock
 
Maybe post some pictures of the action area of the stock. If the hollows are large under the action you'll need a lot of bedding material to fill the void.
Let's see what you're up against!
 
okay, I will try I do not have a digital camera but I will try, I floated the barrel to begin with last night and it rocks lengthwise now-will this go away when I bed the action
 
When the bedding cures and if it's laid in well ,the action should not rock in any direction. However, your stock may still flex because it may not be that solid to start with. Especially if it has a lot of hollows in the factory molding.
 
I think im going to fiberglass the voids in the stock and than I will also have a base to bed the small area of the barrel
 
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