Bedding action had an unintended side effect.

223submoa

223submoa

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I bedded the action in my 700 this past weekend into my HS precision varmint stock. I haven't had the opportunity to shoot it yet (damn weather here has been S*** :mad:) but tonight I decided to do a little dry fire practice when I noticed something strange, and awesome. The bolt action on my rifle has gotten MUCH smoother. It's buttery smooth now. It was never terrible, but bedding made a huge difference! I can only assume that the stock was somewhat uneven and was placing stress on the action causing minute binding of the bolt. I'm very pleased! Now hopefully my groups have shrunk to go along with this!
 
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hmmm, something is missing in this story.
bedding the action has nothing to do with the smoothness of the trigger.
nothing at all
 
Maybe without the bedding, the torque of the receiver screws was causing the action to flex a wee bit causing it to bind. Now that it's been bedded, the receiver is all supported so no more binding? Just my wild guess.
 
A can't imagine a centre fire rifle receiver would be able to twist with just pressure from the mounting screws, or a slightly out of spec stock.

Should be a hell of alot stiffer than that I would think...
 
That was my thought too. Its the only plausible explanation I could come up with.

Trinimon said:
Maybe without the bedding, the torque of the receiver screws was causing the action to flex a wee bit causing it to bind. Now that it's been bedded, the receiver is all supported so no more binding? Just my wild guess.
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Nah I bet your front action screw was a tad proud now with the bedding it sits below flush in the action! Where was it binding on closing/cam over or when pusing the bolt forward?
 
Hmmm, there's a thought! It wasn't binding terribly or anything, it was just stiffer. It was when moving the bolt forward and backward. Closing the bolt is the same as it was.

DG Photography said:
Nah I bet your front action screw was a tad proud now with the bedding it sits below flush in the action! Where was it binding on closing/cam over or when pusing the bolt forward?
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onthehunt said:
The magazine must have been pushing agains the bottom of the bolt. You must have seated the magazine a little lower after you bedded the stock.
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SCORES!!!!! I was just about to type a reply! The action sits higher in the stock now so there is more clearance between the mag body/ instert. You usually get this with floor plate mags.
 
Stress free bedding is important. It is possible to slightly bend an action with tight screws and poor bedding... and no stock is machined perfectly. Did you bed the stock using the screws tightened down or loosely with a wedge under the barrel taking the weight?
 
guntech said:
Stress free bedding is important. It is possible to slightly bend an action with tight screws and poor bedding... and no stock is machined perfectly. Did you bed the stock using the screws tightened down or loosely with a wedge under the barrel taking the weight?
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Which is the best way? I often see people wrapping the barrel near the action in several wraps of electrical tape?
 
swissinn said:
Which is the best way? I often see people wrapping the barrel near the action in several wraps of electrical tape?
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I don't think there is any one 'best' way. I do prefer wrapping the barrel with masking tape until the barrel is held centered in the stock supporting the action level in the stock. I have two long headless action Allan screws very slightly tapered in the action. No trigger in place. The bottom metal taped in place. These long screws center the action where it should be in relationship to the bottom metal. I often have to mill a little clearance on the recoil lug area as often it holds the action too far forward and the action screws bind. When the barreled action with the masking tape and the screws goes in the stock with the bottom metal easily and lies there level, it is ready to glass bed. I always have one layer of tape on the front, sides and bottom of the recoil lug before I apply *Johnson's paste wax as a release agent.

After the bedding has cured the long headless action screws are removed first, then the barreled action easily lifts out.

* $6 for a large can in the US. Lasts for many years of professional use. Shoe wax will perform well too. Better than the release agents offered by the companies.
 
This is pretty much the method I used. It seemed to work quite well.

guntech said:
I don't think there is any one 'best' way. I do prefer wrapping the barrel with masking tape until the barrel is held centered in the stock supporting the action level in the stock. I have two long headless action Allan screws very slightly tapered in the action. No trigger in place. The bottom metal taped in place. These long screws center the action where it should be in relationship to the bottom metal. I often have to mill a little clearance on the recoil lug area as often it holds the action too far forward and the action screws bind. When the barreled action with the masking tape and the screws goes in the stock with the bottom metal easily and lies there level, it is ready to glass bed. I always have one layer of tape on the front, sides and bottom of the recoil lug before I apply *Johnson's paste wax as a release agent.

After the bedding has cured the long headless action screws are removed first, then the barreled action easily lifts out.

* $6 for a large can in the US. Lasts for many years of professional use. Shoe wax will perform well too. Better than the release agents offered by the companies.
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Bedding is not flat and you were flexing the action when you tightened down the bolts. This caused the bolt to bind in the action.

Very common with many factory stocks. To test, just loosen the rear bolt and run the bolt.

Some you can feel the action bend as you tighten, loosen the action bolt. Some you can see bending the action.

Proper bedding levels this out so the action has to sit properly and hopefully straight. Bolt then travels properly through the action.

Simple but not always understood....

Jerry
 
swissinn said:
Which is the best way? I often see people wrapping the barrel near the action in several wraps of electrical tape?
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Stress free and level is the goal.... So put the barreled action into the stock and see if/how it rocks in the bedding. Can be pretty hilarious how wonky the fit is.

Now use shims/tape to ensure the action, lug and first part of barrel is level when the action is bolted down. It will take some trial and error which is why quality bedding costs ... it takes time to set it up properly.

When the bedding compound is added and the action replaced, the level is reconfirmed so that the bedding is indeed as desired while it cures. Take it all a part, clean it up and recheck for shrinkage.

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/743265-Why-Proper-Bedding-is-Important

Some before and after videos of an HS stock I did.

I want an interference fit between the metal and the bedding. I do not tape the recoil lug. More difficult to take apart but results are superior in my opinion. The bedded action feels like it is one with the stock WITHOUT any bolts.

Jerry
 
I have DG's 30-338 Lapua and that is what it feels like. You could literally shoot it without action screws, its that snug. Best bedding job I've ever seen.
 
Mystic Precision said:
I want an interference fit between the metal and the bedding. I do not tape the recoil lug. More difficult to take apart but results are superior in my opinion.

Jerry
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I have to say I have not seen an improvement in accuracy when bedding all of the lug...no loss either but no gain ... and it makes it a pain to take apart and reinstall the barreled action... and the possibility of the lug shaving a bit of bedding compound and this getting trapped at the bottom is always there...

if one does not want screws glue it in...
 
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