Is there any advantage to bedding the barrel channel in a wood stock? I am in the proccess of bedding the action in an inexpensive rifle. The bedding kit I bought gives instructions for the option of also bedding the barrel. What would be gained by this? By the way, this rifle has a very small diameter (probably whippy) 30 cal barrel.
Bedding an action / barrel
- Thread starter Davidf
- Start date
The general thought is that it is better if the entire barrel is not bedded. If it is, and there is any change in the wood, the barrel will be affected. Some prefer to cast in a bedding pad toward the tip of the forend, as well as at the breech of the barrel under the chamber. You can try it both ways, adding or removing the pad at the tip. Sometimes the barrel can be bed without a pressure point, the rifle tested, then cardboard shims are used to create upward pressure. If this works better, then a pad is cast it. If you want a neat moulded barrel channel, which does not touch the barrel, just apply plastic electrical tape to the barrel, and coat it with release agent. This will create a slight gap.
My .35 Whelen has a Douglas #2-profile barrel which means it is .600" diameter at the muzzle. With the .358 " bore, this makes for a light-weight,' whippy' barrel.
When I first bedded the rifle, I did just the action and 2" of the barrel, leaving the rest free-floating. It didn't shoot worth a darn-as in 2-2.5" groups.
I next put a pressure point at the tip - still didn't shoot.
As a last resort I neutral bedded the barrel full length. By that I mean I put acra-glas gel in the barrel channel and assembled the rifle. There is no pressure on the barrel.
The rifle is now capable of sub-moa groups if I do my part.
When I first bedded the rifle, I did just the action and 2" of the barrel, leaving the rest free-floating. It didn't shoot worth a darn-as in 2-2.5" groups.
I next put a pressure point at the tip - still didn't shoot.
As a last resort I neutral bedded the barrel full length. By that I mean I put acra-glas gel in the barrel channel and assembled the rifle. There is no pressure on the barrel.
The rifle is now capable of sub-moa groups if I do my part.
gth said:
Actually, I read about the concept in an article by John Barsness in Rifle Magazine. IIRC, he speculated that some light,whippy barrels don't vibrate in a consistant manner and the presence of the bedding dampened any weird vibrations.
Anyway, it was worth a try and if nothing else, the epoxy seals the wood.
Like River Rat says, I have been full length bedding my rifles for quite a few years. The first one was a very light contour 30-06 about 20 years ago. It went from shooting 2" groups to under an inch. Tried the next one the same and it worked. Almost every one has been FL bedded since.
I have probably done two dozen or more since then, and every one has shot very well. Some that would not shoot worth a hoot were completely transformed into wonderfully accuarate hunting rifles!
I do it all at once, so the action area and barrel channel is all one pour. Tried doing it separately, but it never turns out as good.
Ted
I have probably done two dozen or more since then, and every one has shot very well. Some that would not shoot worth a hoot were completely transformed into wonderfully accuarate hunting rifles!
I do it all at once, so the action area and barrel channel is all one pour. Tried doing it separately, but it never turns out as good.
Ted
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bedding the barrel channel
Some of the best custom smiths do the channel to the extent that they are neutral bedded. Of course this is done in the wood...ohhh I wish I had that talent
A quality full-length neutral bed with a quality-bedding compound is very secure and a veryyyyyy major warp would be required to change POI.
Some of the best custom smiths do the channel to the extent that they are neutral bedded. Of course this is done in the wood...ohhh I wish I had that talent
A quality full-length neutral bed with a quality-bedding compound is very secure and a veryyyyyy major warp would be required to change POI.
Bedding the barrel on a light stock and barrel combo makes everything a bit more solid. Remember it is a hunting gun and if it holds zero for three shots then that's all you need. You are guaranteed that when the barrel gets hot the zero will change.
Mystic Precision
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I would only barrel bed if using a temp and moisture stable stock ie lam or composite. Never in a solid wood stock. It takes precious little movement in that stock to change POI and barrel tuning.
I have free floated every rifle I have worked on (many) and have never found an issue finding a load. I do bed under the first 1 to 1.5" of barrel, the rest is free floated with lots of room between the stock and barrel.
I never know what I will face hunting so make sure weather will not affect my rifle. All solid wood stocks move due to environmental changes, just a matter of how much.
Simple test. Take the stock you have now, measure fit and alignment of foreend. Take out action, put stock in a pail of water from the forend to the trigger guard. Leave for 15 mins, longer if you hunt on the Wet Coast. Remove and reassemble action.
Does it fit? What changes do you see? I have seen stocks move 1/2" warping. They returned to orig shape after drying but imagine what is happening to your rifle while this stock moves around.
Yes, these were sealed stocks (I use epoxy). Water will find a way into the wood.
Jerry
I have free floated every rifle I have worked on (many) and have never found an issue finding a load. I do bed under the first 1 to 1.5" of barrel, the rest is free floated with lots of room between the stock and barrel.
I never know what I will face hunting so make sure weather will not affect my rifle. All solid wood stocks move due to environmental changes, just a matter of how much.
Simple test. Take the stock you have now, measure fit and alignment of foreend. Take out action, put stock in a pail of water from the forend to the trigger guard. Leave for 15 mins, longer if you hunt on the Wet Coast. Remove and reassemble action.
Does it fit? What changes do you see? I have seen stocks move 1/2" warping. They returned to orig shape after drying but imagine what is happening to your rifle while this stock moves around.
Yes, these were sealed stocks (I use epoxy). Water will find a way into the wood.
Jerry
Ian Robertson said:
It isn't a matter of holding zero for three shots, it is a matter of has the point of impact changing... it was sighted in.... but that was a week ago...
With a bedded barrel I have seen that very problem occur and the point of impact change 3 inches at 200 yards, simply due to the forend movement. It requires a very stable piece of wood not to move and a very accurate rifle to note the difference.
