Bedding an action

Survival Bill said:
Will this work with synthetic stocks as well?
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Some of the cheaper "tupperware" stocks are hard to get the bedding to stick in. It sometimes requires that the bedding area be dug out or roughed up with a dremel tool or drill to get a mechanical bond to the stock.

Around the receiver and the 1st two inches of the bbl channel should be enough.

SC..................
 
I 've done a bunch of them...and would advise starting out with something that isn't too important...like a converted military job....the first one I did about 30 years ago was a Swede..it turned out great...but there have been a few failures...nothing that couldn't be corrected though...and remember..if you screw up (usually by not coating everything properly with release agent (and crisco makes a good substitute for the green film stuff) just stick the gun in a real cold freezer for a day...the steel will shrink away from the glass)....my later efforts (usually on synthetic stocks that nearly always have to be glass bedded anyway) were perfect...its really not that hard to do a near perfect job...but read up on the correct bolt action rifle glass bedding points and the correct order in which to do them (all at once is always a bad idea from my point of view)....one tip...sharpen up some plastic picnic knives to cut away the semi-hard (wait till it hardens slightly) bedding agent when it squeezes out above the stock...nothing worse in my mind than scratches on a rifle barrel caused by a sharp metal knife used for this purpose. Plastic knives can be made very sharp but they won't scratch steel. Thats my two-bits.
 
Rob, that two bits of advice is worth big bucks to anyone who will take it. I have seen more than one rifle devalued big time because of the very scratches you are talking about.

I use wooden tungue depressors sharpened like a chisel to do the same thing, but plastic knives are an even better idea. 8)

Ted
 
Greetings all, I'm new to forum and like the great advice and comments.

I just purchased my first bolt action always had Pump action, my new baby is a 2 yr. old Ruger M77 MKII 300wsm with B&L 3x9 scope.
I'm considering bedding the stock, once the stock is bedded will I be able to remove or service trigger without having ti remove barrel to the stock and damaging the bedding.
This rifle measures 46"length and the barrel is 26" long, the new 2005 model of this rifle measure 42"length with a barrel of 22", I'm also considering cutting and crowning the barrel to 22",what are the Pros & Cons in shortning this barrel.

Thanks
Mike
 
For the infequency with which I bed rifles, I just get my smith to do it. Not much more money than buyign the kit and doing it yourself :idea:

As for bedding compount, I've heard that Steel-bed or similar prodcts are better and more durable than acraglas...
 
If you are going to do your own bedding job, there are a couple of things that need to be done to do a job that makes it all worth while. As mentioned above, if its an injection molded stock, rough up the surfaces that you intend to bed. If it's wood or fibreglass, make sure that there isn't any oil in the area to be bedded. (Oil in the bedding area may be the cause of any rifles accuracy problem) Mix up the glass with lots of flock to make it stiffer when applying. Put a paper shim under the barrel to give a little extra clearance. If possible install pillars front and rear. Pillars make a bedding job a slam dunk. You can do an excellent job without pillars, just a little more care needs to be excercised. When tightening the action screws, just snug the forward screw and just make the rear screw tight enough to just hold it in place. When the glass has cured for a couple of days, remove the action from the stock and cleanup the bedding of excess glass, release compound etc. KEEP ALL OIL OR ANY LUBRCANT OUT OF THE BEDDING. Drill out the screw holes (in the stock :wink: ) to make sure that they don't come into contact with the screws when they are tightened. When final assembly is done, there shouldn't be any movement of the rear of the receiver after the front screw is tightened (not to tight) and the rear screw is snugged up. With pillars, you can tighten quite a bit more without concerns, a nice option when you don't have a torque wrench. Tse are just acouple of tips to save some grief. There are a lot of other things that can be done as well, maybe some of the other guys have some suggestions as well. Almos forgot, make sure to clean all of the release compound frm the receiver as well.:D bearhunter
 
Rob, that two bits of advice is worth big bucks to anyone who will take it. I have seen more than one rifle devalued big time because of the very scratches you are talking about.

I use wooden tungue depressors sharpened like a chisel to do the same thing, but plastic knives are an even better idea.

Ted
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I have bedded about 12 rifles now with great sucess but I would always let the excess Acraglass dry completely before I removed it. I used a very sharp chisel and took alot of care not to scratch the stock.

Rob, your tip is a great idea, unfortunately I just did 2 rifles over the weekend or I would have tried this method for sure. You can bet I will next time!
 
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