BEDDING?? Help
- Thread starter K98ACTION
- Start date
Bedding
Well from what i understand of it, it is to do with the fit of the stock to the barrell. I'm sure someone will give you a better explanation than me but i'll try here.
The idea of having the stock support the barrell completely and evenly or to have it not touch the barrell at all . If you have the stock only touching the barrell in one or two places while having air around it in others is considered bad as once the rifle is fired the stock will contact the barrell and inturupt/disturb the vibrations/harmonics of the barrell. Its comparable to touching a tuning fork after you have struck a note. One of the considerations is climate (hot/cold, wet/dry) this will change day to day or from place to place and will effect where, when and if the stock contacts the barrell.
The rifle I recently picked up is bedded under the reciever area and up to where the taper starts on the barrell , the last 8-10" of stock out front has clearance around the barrell so as not to disturb it. You can slide a thin business card from the barrell end down towards the trigger 8-10"
As to how to do it and when exactly its needed you'll have to hope for answers from someone here with the experience. I've read write ups on how to do it step by step but have never had the nerve to risk being wrong, laff.
Well from what i understand of it, it is to do with the fit of the stock to the barrell. I'm sure someone will give you a better explanation than me but i'll try here.
The idea of having the stock support the barrell completely and evenly or to have it not touch the barrell at all . If you have the stock only touching the barrell in one or two places while having air around it in others is considered bad as once the rifle is fired the stock will contact the barrell and inturupt/disturb the vibrations/harmonics of the barrell. Its comparable to touching a tuning fork after you have struck a note. One of the considerations is climate (hot/cold, wet/dry) this will change day to day or from place to place and will effect where, when and if the stock contacts the barrell.
The rifle I recently picked up is bedded under the reciever area and up to where the taper starts on the barrell , the last 8-10" of stock out front has clearance around the barrell so as not to disturb it. You can slide a thin business card from the barrell end down towards the trigger 8-10"
As to how to do it and when exactly its needed you'll have to hope for answers from someone here with the experience. I've read write ups on how to do it step by step but have never had the nerve to risk being wrong, laff.
I'm interested too
I am perusing the idea of doing a bedding job on my Savage 12 VLP. it shoots sub MOA now but I want to get a little better for the long shots on prairie dogs.
This link is Savage related but i am sure the info is relative to all makes .http://www.savageshooters.com/Pages/Bedding101.html
From my research it would see worth while to do it.
I plan to give it a try soon.
I am perusing the idea of doing a bedding job on my Savage 12 VLP. it shoots sub MOA now but I want to get a little better for the long shots on prairie dogs.
This link is Savage related but i am sure the info is relative to all makes .http://www.savageshooters.com/Pages/Bedding101.html
From my research it would see worth while to do it.
I plan to give it a try soon.
K98ACTION said:OK.
This is killing me.
1. What is bedding?
2. What is Glass Bedding?
3. How do I know if my rilfe needs bedding?
4. How do I check for proper bedding?
5. Can I do it or does a Smith have to?
1. It is the contact areas between the stock and the barreled action.
2. Glass bedding is an epoxy that adheres to the stock areas you want bedded.
3. If it is a factory rifle it will probably benifit from glass bedding correctly.
4. Take it to someone experienced in accurizing rifles.
5. Obviously someone experienced would be able to do it better than you.
If it is not done correctly, it is of no value and may be a big headache. It doesn't cost that much to have done.
Here is a link on glass bedding: http://www.benchrest.com/FAQ/4.2.shtml
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A gun####h showed me the steps on the first rifle I had bedded.
I have since done a number on my own with great results.
A friend recently bedded a 243 which was giving 3"+ groups, and one load turned in a 3 followed by a 1.5. The first 3-shot group after the bedding was .83 at 200 metres. Consistency and accuracy will be the biggest advantages. Maintaining day-to-day and year-to-year point of impact is extremely important.
The fact you are asking would cause me to suggest having someone with considerable experience show you the steps - there is a lot more to it than we could cover. The previously recommended web site will convince you to get help.
I have since done a number on my own with great results.
A friend recently bedded a 243 which was giving 3"+ groups, and one load turned in a 3 followed by a 1.5. The first 3-shot group after the bedding was .83 at 200 metres. Consistency and accuracy will be the biggest advantages. Maintaining day-to-day and year-to-year point of impact is extremely important.
The fact you are asking would cause me to suggest having someone with considerable experience show you the steps - there is a lot more to it than we could cover. The previously recommended web site will convince you to get help.
Prohibited word
Yeah! I was trying to figure out what bad word you were using there?
I will check out the web site guys. But what do you think of bedding when it comes to a milsurp. I have this mauser with full wood. It's shooting your typical vertical string. A CGNer told me it may need to be bedded. For those type of rifles, is it better to have the whole length of barrel as well as the receiver bedded?
Yeah! I was trying to figure out what bad word you were using there?
I will check out the web site guys. But what do you think of bedding when it comes to a milsurp. I have this mauser with full wood. It's shooting your typical vertical string. A CGNer told me it may need to be bedded. For those type of rifles, is it better to have the whole length of barrel as well as the receiver bedded?
I suggest that you do a search on this site for the keyword bedding. If you google it, you'll find more information than anyone could ever give you. Whether you can do it yourself or not, that's entirely up to your skills. If you have two left hands, a gunsmith would be recommended. If you have tools, patience two opposing thumbs and half a brain, then you're good to go.
Pudelpointer
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Lethbridge, Alberta
K98 - if your gun is "walking" as you shoot, and returning to zero after it cools down, then floating the barrel is the answer. As the barrel is heating up the wood under it is expanding slightly and building pressure against the barrel. Now how you are going to free float a full wood stock......
You may be able to float most of the barrel except for the very end and glass bed at each end. ???
Ian
You may be able to float most of the barrel except for the very end and glass bed at each end. ???
Ian
