Bedding - how to keep epoxy out of action screws?

kayaker1

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Hi all,

As the title implies, how do you keep the epoxy/bedding compound out of the action screws and screw holes in the stock when doing a bedding job?

I am thinking of doing a thin bedding layer on my Savage 11, just to get the receiver and rear of the recoil lug well fitted to the stock

(its the wet noodle plastic stock on the package rifles)

Cheers
 
Fill the screwdriver slots and around the base of the heads with smeared on candle wax. If you heat it until it's soft and pliable with a hair dryer or the like it'll go on and shape with a finger nicely. And any excess smears will just be that much more release agent.
 
Thanks,

But don't you need to re-insert the screws and tighten them slightly once the bedding compound is in in order to create some some downward tension of the action into the stock?

I am just not sure how you apply the epoxy to the bedding area, drop in the stock and then insert the action again screws without getting the threads full of epoxy?

Obviously one applies release agent to the screws first, just incase. All the bedding jobs I see have bedding right up against the edge of the screw holes in the stock. How do they do that without getting the epoxy on the threads?

Confused...or just being a dumb-azz?:redface:
 
guide screws

Get a set of headless guide screws. Screw them into the action and coat all with release compound. Action should not be under screw tension while bedding in any event so don't use the original screws while bedding. The guide screws just maintain action alignment with the holes in the stock. Hand set to proper depth and secure lightly in the stock. If you have already free floated the barrel build the barrel up with masking tape at the front of the fore end to a level fit to keep the whole thing from tipping in the stock from barrel weight.
 
Get a set of headless guide screws. Screw them into the action and coat all with release compound. Action should not be under screw tension while bedding in any event so don't use the original screws while bedding. The guide screws just maintain action alignment with the holes in the stock. Hand set to proper depth and secure lightly in the stock. If you have already free floated the barrel build the barrel up with masking tape at the front of the fore end to a level fit to keep the whole thing from tipping in the stock from barrel weight.

Ahh! Makes perfect sense!

I guess some basic threaded rod with the same thread pattern/diameter from the hardware store should suffice for the guide screws?

Thanks
 
Yep, no tension on stock. Insert screws ( or threaded rods) to line holes up, then wrap tubing or tape around the stock and action to hold it together, no stress.

If you cover the screws in wax, it should keep most bedding out of the holes. If some seeps in there, you can drill the hole out with a drill bit when you separate the stock and action...
 
"...cover the screws in wax..." Use the release agent. The heat generated by the curing epoxy will likely melt wax. Waited too long(yapping with the boss of the shop), one time, with the mixed epoxy in a cup. Friggin' thing smoked like a smudge pot and was too hot to touch.
 
kayaker1;
I’ll toss this out for your consideration with the warning that I’m not a trained gunsmith, only a serious student of the rifle who fools with them as a hobby/addiction.

You mentioned getting threaded rod at the hardware store for your action alignment screws. In general, the action screws are a finer thread than is commonly available at a hardware store at least that is the case here in southern BC.

One is well advised to check what is required carefully with a thread pitch gauge as one really doesn't want to mess up the action threads. :(

The other issue with threaded rod is that the threads protruding from beneath the action should likely be taped up and coated with release agent or they may grip the epoxy compound and not make for a smooth release.

I can recall breaking one stock at the wrist when I was taking out of the bedding and I really can't recommend it as a good way to start your day off. :(

I would have to think that stocker’s solution is definitely the best, but it does require purchasing the correct guide screws.

While I've not done this, as a stop gap measure it might work to grind the heads off of a set of action screws, but obviously they would not protrude out the bottom of the stock as well as the real thing.

To answer your original query, I use either kid’s Plasticine or paste floor wax and have had no problems with either. I do note that I use a marine epoxy from Industrial Formulators as a bedding compound and while there is an exothermic reaction as it cures, it is apparently not enough to cause melting issues with the floor wax I’ve been using.

In closing, I’ll say good luck to you in your bedding job, its good to see folks learning by doing. As a by the way, my records indicate that the last stock I bedded made an even 5 dozen since I started back in the day and I’m still learning and reading threads like this to see what they can teach me.

Regards,
Dwayne
 
I use paste wax on the screws, then put a heavy coat of grease on the screws, threaded holes and inside the action where the epoxy will get pushed by threading the screws in. Nothing sticks to grease, not even paint.
 
You mentioned getting threaded rod at the hardware store for your action alignment screws. In general, the action screws are a finer thread than is commonly available at a hardware store at least that is the case here in southern BC.

One is well advised to check what is required carefully with a thread pitch gauge as one really doesn't want to mess up the action threads.

Thanks for that. After my last post I gave this some thought! I may just buy the guide screws. Savage uses a 1/4" 28tpi along with Remington, and weatherby so for $5 its likely they will be used again!

Yes, messing up the threads in the action would be a major PIA!!!

Thanks for info guys.


PS, who sells guide screws in Canada?
 
kayaker1;
While I'm not sure if they have them and this is a guess, but I would try Western Gun Parts in Edmonton. They have always been extremely helpful when I've dealt with them on anything thus far. They've known what they had anyway or pointed me to where I could find it.

Back not many years ago, I had a now passed on friend who had a post box in Oroville, WA, so we'd order from Brownells a couple times a year and split the frieght.

In my experience now, Brownells is a little hit and miss with what they are able to send to an individual in Canada. I believe they are more prone to send to a dealer/gunsmith however.

As noted in the thread that was linked a couple posts back, one can likely get a ¼-28 die from an industrial supplier and make your own with not too much trouble?

Again, good luck whichever way you decide to go.

Regards,
Dwayne
 
Thanks Dwayne,

Yep, Brownells and Midway have them but shipping to Canada seems to be an issue, at least for Midway. I try WGP for sure.
 
i just did mine... acraglas and release agent everywhere but the screws... used pam spray on them and turned them slightly every 3 hrs just to be sure. Worked excellent.
 
i just did mine... acraglas and release agent everywhere but the screws... used pam spray on them and turned them slightly every 3 hrs just to be sure. Worked excellent.


I have used Pam as a release agent for bedding a Lee Enfield forestock and the recoil lug on the Savage I want to bed properly now - it worked extremely well too!
Where did you get your screws from?
 
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