Bedding/Tie Down Options ... SR22 in a Boyds?

jt_trouble

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Hey all.

Well I just noticed that my Sr22 that I have installed in a Boyds Tacticool, has a bit of side to side play. As well as barely noticeable, but very noticeable to me ... up and down play.

It all pivots at the front hold down screw in the stock.

I recently bought another SR22 and I took off my .920 off my current one and traded it off for the .750 that came with the second SR. That's when I started to notice this problem, which wasn't there with the .920 installed. My main rifle in the tacticool is destined to have a .750 SS Barrel once Dlask starts to make them, and I don't want this "play" in my stock to affect any accuracy that I can tweak out of the set up.

Bedding is an option, but will only solve half the problem.

Any ideas on how to solve this?
 
JT....just use a bedding pad approx. 1" in front of the take down screw.

IIRC .. when I called Dlask, the new Stainless 10/22 barrels will be .920 for 2" and then drop to .750 ... so a pad would take out the up and down.

What about the side to side play ?
 
So the new barrel is a heavy sporter tapered design?!
You would either have to:
- Change your stock to one that accepts standard barrel and hone it out to match the heavy sporter taper barrel dimensions
OR
- Use bedding compound behind & on the sides at the back of the receiver, plus a little in your barrel channel
 
So the new barrel is a heavy sporter tapered design?!

Yeah, they told me that those who bought the original full .920 SS, that they were front heavy and unbalanced

You would either have to:
- Change your stock to one that accepts standard barrel and hone it out to match the heavy sporter taper barrel dimensions
OR
- Use bedding compound behind & on the sides at the back of the receiver, plus a little in your barrel channel

Like the stock so I'll have to try out bedding out the barrel for the full .920 length and free float the rest. And either bed or shim the back of the receiver for the side to side.

Thanks for the tips!
 
I thinking of asking for a length of 18.5" and threaded .. I know the consensus is that the optimal length for a .22lr barrel is 16" ... but I just have to be different.
 
You could bed it but I would recommend something a little different. I did this on my most recent build and it worked awesome. I drilled a .25" hole in the back of the reciever and found a wood screw with a .25" head and screwed it into the part of the stock behind the reciever. It works very well and I didn't have to mess with bedding. I will still put a bedding pad under the first couple inches of barrel though.
 
You could bed it but I would recommend something a little different. I did this on my most recent build and it worked awesome. I drilled a .25" hole in the back of the reciever and found a wood screw with a .25" head and screwed it into the part of the stock behind the reciever. It works very well and I didn't have to mess with bedding. I will still put a bedding pad under the first couple inches of barrel though.

I thought about that as well. But using a cross pin jig trough one of the trigger group holes, much like Kim (elimsprint) did to hers/his. Just wasn't to keen on messing with my stock in case I screw it up :D

Got any pics of how you did yours?
 
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You could bed it but I would recommend something a little different. I did this on my most recent build and it worked awesome. I drilled a .25" hole in the back of the reciever and found a wood screw with a .25" head and screwed it into the part of the stock behind the reciever. It works very well and I didn't have to mess with bedding. I will still put a bedding pad under the first couple inches of barrel though.

Savagelh...
Could you still get the bolt stop pin inserted after the wood screw was installed?
Did you use a screw with a counter sunk head on it?
How did you know where the receiver was going to sit in the stock when you drove the screw in w/o the trigger group pinned to it?

Oh ya....and Kim is a him :D
 
i just used a standard pan-head screw i found in the garage. As far as how did I know where it was going to sit well I put two layers of masking tape on the bottom of the barrel and snugged it down. I then marked my screw hole. It worked out well because the barrel was free floating when I reassembled everything. I had to file the screw down so the head was the right diameter but that was easy with a cordless drill and a file.
 
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