Bedding your scope base...

I think the silicone will be pretty effective, just be aware that the silicone will remain for a good long time. Which is both a blessing and a curse. A blessing because it will inhibit corrosion, a curse if you ever need to adjust the bedding or want to blue or paint the action or the stock.
 
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Splatter said:
I think the silicone will be pretty effective, just be aware that the silicone will remain for a good long time. Which is both a blessing and a curse. A blessing because it will inhibit corrosion, a curse if you ever need to adjust the bedding or want to blue or paint the action or the stock.
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It would cause difficulty in paint or blue adhering to their respective components: However, I am somewhat unorthodox, or maybe traditional... so that shouldn't interfere with what my preference is. I am almost finished building my own stock for a T3: I started a thread a few months ago about appropriate wood and settled on American Beech. It has proven to be a very hard wood, but is very strong and lovely grain - a plus for choosing wood in the first place. Desiring an attractive wood stock, I also laminated several 3/16" layers bonded with Gorilla glue. Wanting to maintain the appearance I am dwelling on the idea of simply applying a coat of linseed oil to preserve and protect the wood, and as this would be inside and out, theoretically should shed all moisture keeping the wood stable despite humidity or precipitation. The only concern I have is the linseed oil reacting negatively with the glue and perhaps softening the quarter inch it would penetrate. If anyone might have some insight on that, contrary to what I hope, I can hire my friend to clear coat it at the repair shop. No matter what I do, the wood will be darkened. I should post this question in the gunsmithing sub-forum.

If photobucket cooperates, I intend on posting pictures of the process I undertook last fall cutting the beech tree down, milling, allowing to dry etc. to whenever I can finish - I hope it will be this week, as I only need to attach sling swivels, cut the but to length with recoil pad and then seal. It is intended as a target rifle, so it might fit best in this sub-forum.
 
Longshot said:
And the point of this would be...?
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Bases, at least single piece Farrel bases are thicker than the receiver piece they are mounted too. If there is a gap, even minute as a hair; athough nothing adverse will likely happen, there is stress imposed on the base and the receiver. Bedding the two provides a mating surface that is within thousandths or ten thousandths of an inch variation at most thereby eliminating the above of a few problems. Essentially it boils down to how accurate and consistent you want your rifle to shoot: As Ferrari would shave an ounce here or there, to ultimately make a car a hundred pounds lighter, a tiny bit of precision here and there... no matter how OCD it may seem does result in tighter groups.

If you are talking about my last post... sorry, I was prattling on about something that has slight relevance at least for me. Studying "Ambiguity/Subterfuge 101" for my upcoming infiltration and subversion of lieberalism - a far fetched and last ditch effort to save the seemingly unsaveable from a fate worse than death... living a life wasted in ignorance, closemindedness and stupidity, oppressing those dissidents of lieberalism.
 
I have bedded the scope base on one of my BAT BR rifles. The only reason that was done is because the action is a multi-flat and the base is made for a round action. Used JB to bed it to the action. I believe I did not even use release agent. When it comes time to remove the base nothing that a little heat from an iron won't cure.
 
Longshot said:
So a minutely stressed base hampers accuracy ....how?
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that stress is transferred into the scope when ever thing is torqued down, and that CAN (not always) effect how the scope functions as far as adjustment and repeatability, not a problem, if you sight in and shoot one distance all the time, sight in, dial up and down a 100x and lets say the stress makes the adjustments not move exactly 1/4moa, now that youve dialed all over the place, youve essentially lost your zero, as well as if you need to dial up say 19moa, and the adjustments are functioning properly now youve only come up say 18 1/4 and your left trying to sort out why your 3/4 moa off, scope, bullets, powder charge, wrong velocity, bad chrono data?
 
I just can't see either a minute amount of stress on either the scope, with its internals on the inside OR a minute amount of stress on a thick action from a thin base causing anything. Sorry just me. I have never bedded a mount and done just fine. Sounds like a waste of time.
 
Longshot said:
I just can't see either a minute amount of stress on either the scope, with its internals on the inside OR a minute amount of stress on a thick action from a thin base causing anything. Sorry just me. I have never bedded a mount and done just fine. Sounds like a waste of time.
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In some cases it may be a waste of time, but it is very little time or money...

If you tighten one end of a base and the other end lifts off the receiver, obviously the fit is incorrect... bedding that base correctly will fix it.

Not all things done can be immediately demonstrated to affect accuracy but most accuracy shooters will want to eliminate anything that may adversely affect accuracy. Having a base fit the action perfectly with no stress is just one of the little things.

Each to their own...
 
dito on the JB weld and forget the release agent. Just glue the sucker on there.

Oh... and use a one piece scope base. Glue that on and it will help prevent action deflection under the weight of the barrel.

If you ever decide to take it off, just put it in the oven for a while - or the bbq.
Then you can remove the screws while it's hot
 
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