Can anyone offer me some recommendations re. what should be inspected/checked on a milsurp rifle before firing? I always completely disassemble, inspect and do the standard clean and lube before firing, but is there anything else a new owner of a milsurp should do? I just purchased a No.1 mk3 from a member here and am looking forward to firing her, but just want to make sure I'm not missing an important safety step? Or should a gunsmith always do an inspection before firing? Thanks all...
Before firing inspections on milsurps
- Thread starter langet
- Start date
On all the milsurps i've bought, this is the inspection method i used:
1. Look over the outside to see if there are any cracks, big dings, bulges, or other glaringly obvious problems.
2. Open the bolt/action and inspect the action area for deep pitting, cracks that are visible on the inside.
3. Put a piece of paper in the action to direct light in, and have a look down the bore. Maybe run a brush/patch down if there's big fuzzys or chunkies, or rifling is not visible.
4. If there's a large amount of rust or grease or dirt, whipe it off with steel wool and an oily cloth. Depends on my mood. As long as the action functions and isn't clogged with crap, i might wait. Why clean it all up if it's not going to work?
5. At first shooting, does the bolt/action close properly on a loaded round? Lugs engaged, no slop or play? Good to go! Ler 'er rip!
That's it. I wouldn't worry too much about. We all gotta go sometime.
1. Look over the outside to see if there are any cracks, big dings, bulges, or other glaringly obvious problems.
2. Open the bolt/action and inspect the action area for deep pitting, cracks that are visible on the inside.
3. Put a piece of paper in the action to direct light in, and have a look down the bore. Maybe run a brush/patch down if there's big fuzzys or chunkies, or rifling is not visible.
4. If there's a large amount of rust or grease or dirt, whipe it off with steel wool and an oily cloth. Depends on my mood. As long as the action functions and isn't clogged with crap, i might wait. Why clean it all up if it's not going to work?
5. At first shooting, does the bolt/action close properly on a loaded round? Lugs engaged, no slop or play? Good to go! Ler 'er rip!
That's it. I wouldn't worry too much about. We all gotta go sometime.
....and first shot I put down range my cheek isn't on the stock and my support hand is well forward and beneath the barrel. I know, I know....just makes me feel better. 100yr old Enfield=somebody F-ing with it somewhere down that long line.If everything goes well with my "1st live fire" {carefully inspect the fired brass}, then I nestle that bad boy into myself and let 'er rip!
midnightpossum
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- East Kootneys
Hmm.. I can see buying a milsurp from an individual, and getting it checked out from a gunsmith.... however,whats your thoughts on buying from a dealer?
If you can remove barreled action out of the stock:
-run your index finger along entire length of the barrel and see if you can feel any bulges of signs of welding.That will indicate bullet stuck in the barrel,cut,removal of projectile and re-welding
-check underside of the action for cracks of drilled holes(even bore light will show cracks)
-inspect all screws.damaged screwdriver slots might indicate that rifle have been handled improperly by someone without knowledge of tool use.Chances are treats will be stripped as well.
-run your index finger along entire length of the barrel and see if you can feel any bulges of signs of welding.That will indicate bullet stuck in the barrel,cut,removal of projectile and re-welding
-check underside of the action for cracks of drilled holes(even bore light will show cracks)
-inspect all screws.damaged screwdriver slots might indicate that rifle have been handled improperly by someone without knowledge of tool use.Chances are treats will be stripped as well.
A lot of MILSURPs left military technical surveillance and control many moons ago. There are plenty of opportunities for those in private hands to have been dicked with to one extent or another over time, so it pays to be careful. Once you have encountered a cracked receiver or have seen a loose fitting barrel re-installed by hand with loctite or plumbers tape, you like to go a little slow before grabbing some ammo and heading for the range.
After a detailed stripping and cleaning I recommend a functional check to see if all features are working as intended-safety, trigger, sights, cocking, etc.
After this it is worth checking the receiver for a crack (they are out there). This can be done in a couple of ways. First, you can immerse the receiver in solvent and let it dry. If there is a crack, the solvent will accumulate and be visible in it after it has evaporated from the surrounding surface. Second, you can strip the rifle down to the barreled receiver only and then suspend the rifle by grasping the end of the barrel. Next, tap the receiver with a piece of wood or a screwdriver handle. You should get a ringing/resonating sound like a tuning fork. If you just get a dull thud/thunk investigate further.
Being somewhat fastidious and protective of my eyesight, I also keep a set of headspace gauges on hand for any of the MILSURP calibers that I have or aquire. One piece bolts with a number that matches the receiver will generally show proper headspace. 2 piece bolts, like the Lee-Enfield, or un-numbered bolts or mis-matched bolts are worth checking with the gauges as these are easily exchanged among rifles. In the case of the LE, bolt heads can be readily swapped. Headspace gauges are cheap insurance. Firing pin protrusion is also worth checking, especially in a rifle with a floating firing pin like the Garand. The tip of the firing pin should also be checked for roundness as a precaution against a deformed or rough one puncturing a primer.
, you like to go a little slow before grabbing some ammo and heading for the range.After a detailed stripping and cleaning I recommend a functional check to see if all features are working as intended-safety, trigger, sights, cocking, etc.
After this it is worth checking the receiver for a crack (they are out there). This can be done in a couple of ways. First, you can immerse the receiver in solvent and let it dry. If there is a crack, the solvent will accumulate and be visible in it after it has evaporated from the surrounding surface. Second, you can strip the rifle down to the barreled receiver only and then suspend the rifle by grasping the end of the barrel. Next, tap the receiver with a piece of wood or a screwdriver handle. You should get a ringing/resonating sound like a tuning fork. If you just get a dull thud/thunk investigate further.
Being somewhat fastidious and protective of my eyesight, I also keep a set of headspace gauges on hand for any of the MILSURP calibers that I have or aquire. One piece bolts with a number that matches the receiver will generally show proper headspace. 2 piece bolts, like the Lee-Enfield, or un-numbered bolts or mis-matched bolts are worth checking with the gauges as these are easily exchanged among rifles. In the case of the LE, bolt heads can be readily swapped. Headspace gauges are cheap insurance. Firing pin protrusion is also worth checking, especially in a rifle with a floating firing pin like the Garand. The tip of the firing pin should also be checked for roundness as a precaution against a deformed or rough one puncturing a primer.
