Beginner Shotgun

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Pantharen

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Live: Comox, Work: West Van..
I was out in the snow playing with my takedown 22LR today... Some fellows were in the area as me, with some shotguns, let me try them.. Only one I remembered was a short barreled pump action Savage, which hurt every time I tried to shoulder fire it..

What would you recommend for a beginner 12g. (Price is a huge factor, I'm not rich)
 
A brand spankin new Maverick 88 will set you back about $225 , it'll cycle everything and take a beating. It's made by mossberg.
 
what is the difference between the barrel lengths? besides the amount of kick, the savage I fired today, I do believe it was an 18(ish)" barrel and my shoulder is sore and bruised.

Also the guys I were out with were talking about Breech. Now I know this much a closed breech means a tighter spread pattern, and an open breech means a wide spread pattern. But I really dont know what a breech is??
 
Do yourself a favor, and stay away from the tactical crap, they are impractical for hunting, or shooting clays. Find a gun with a 26" to 28" barrel, with interchangeable chokes. As to the breach, it is at the end of the barrel opposite the muzzle, and has nothing to do with the pattern. The choke determines the pattern. As to felt recoil, it isn't directly a factor of barrel length, it's a factor of weight, gun fit, recoil pad, and the action type, as in gas operated semi autos producing less felt recoil.
 
The breech is the back end of the barrel and its where you insert the shell. it has nothing to do with the spread of the pattern made by the pellets. Choke is the constriction inside the muzzle and that is what affects the size of the pattern. Recoil is a combination of a lot of things. Lighter guns kick more than heavy guns. Some ammunition kicks more than others because of speed and weight of the shot. Some guns don't have soft recoil pads, just butt plates. How you stand, and how well the gun fits you also affects felt recoil.

Good advice on getting an inexpensive pump with multiple barrels. Lets you try out lots of things and discover what you like. Hunt some waterfowl, hunt some upland birds, punch some paper with slugs and buckshot and try your hand at the clay target games. I'd be willing to bet you'll find something you really like.

Edit: Stubble jumper, you beat me to it
 
Remington 870 Express is good bang for your buck. Also the Winchester SXP Field looks very interesting. I wish they made it in 20 gauge, I would buy it today!
 
Pantharen said:
what is the difference between the barrel lengths? besides the amount of kick, the savage I fired today, I do believe it was an 18(ish)" barrel and my shoulder is sore and bruised.

Also the guys I were out with were talking about Breech. Now I know this much a closed breech means a tighter spread pattern, and an open breech means a wide spread pattern. But I really dont know what a breech is??
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That would be the choke. "Full choke" has a tight pattern. Cylinder bore is the most open. There are a couple levels in between. Chamber length would be the other factor. Most shotguns are chambered for 2 3/4" shells, with some coming in 3" and 3 1/2". Those are mostly good for costing you more money to shoot and hurting the shoulder. You can always put a smaller shell in a larger chamber, but no the opposite (2 3/4 in 3" but not vice versa).

Newer shotguns will typically have a choke system where you can screw in the choke you want. Older shotguns typically will not. They will be fixed. Some shotguns have different barrels available for you to buy, which can change things like chamber length and barrel length.
 
Just my 2 cents - my first entry shotgun was the Benelli Nova. Relatively inexpensive, and I have a blast with it shooting clays. Only have fired target loads in it.
 
R&R Rancher said:
The breech is the back end of the barrel and its where you insert the shell. it has nothing to do with the spread of the pattern made by the pellets. Choke is the constriction inside the muzzle and that is what affects the size of the pattern. Recoil is a combination of a lot of things. Lighter guns kick more than heavy guns. Some ammunition kicks more than others because of speed and weight of the shot. Some guns don't have soft recoil pads, just butt plates. How you stand, and how well the gun fits you also affects felt recoil.

Good advice on getting an inexpensive pump with multiple barrels. Lets you try out lots of things and discover what you like. Hunt some waterfowl, hunt some upland birds, punch some paper with slugs and buckshot and try your hand at the clay target games. I'd be willing to bet you'll find something you really like.

Edit: Stubble jumper, you beat me to it
Click to expand...

as soon as I logged off, and went to bed, I knew I had messed up.. I ment Choke, and not the breech.

When bird season comes up, smoked duck is awfully nice. I also like Quail, Pheasant, and Grouse too. I had a lot of fun yesterday trying to hit the Clay targets..

Thank you everyone for your valued input, it is very appreciated.
 
My first Shotty was a rem 870 express. I still take it hunting as I can beat the crap out of it and it takes it. $350 or less with one barrel, $500 or so with two. I rarely put the slug barrel on. I personally think even the Express is better quality than the Maverick, but to each their own.
 
PatchRat said:
If quail and grouse is the sort of thing you want to be hunting, you'll probably be better off with a 20 gauge or a .410. There's a lot less recoil, and you'll cause less damage to the meat.
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For someone starting out I would not recommend a .410 it is capable of grouse and quail but if you are shooting them on the wing or interested in hunting waterfowl it will be of marginal use. As far as damage to meat goes, I have never damaged meat with my 12's or 20's.
Someone new to shotguns looking to try their hands at as many facets of their use as possible would be well served by a 3" 12 gauge or 3" 20.
 
If recoil is a concern and money then get a used 12 gauge Remington 1100. Lots of them around. Easy on the shoulder and pocket book. Reliable and you can shoot anything with them depending on chamber size. If a pump hurt your shoulder the first time it probably will again. Felt recoil with a semi is so much less than a pump no matter whether you are shooting buckshot, slugs or target loads. And don't waste your money on the tactical stuff
 
A 20 gauge gun is all you need for clays and grouse, and will be adequate for ducks over decoys. A 12 gauge will give you more killing power for ducks and geese, and still be fine for clays and upland game (though heavier to carry in the field).

Pumps work fine and are cheaper than autos, but autos are softer on the shoulder. Stick with a 26" or 28" barrel and screw-in chokes, and you can do just about anything with it. No need for 3.5" chamber.

Now that you've seen how challenging and satisfying it is to hit flying targets, you'll get no satisfaction out of shooting birds on the ground with a shotgun. When people say get a .410 for grouse, generally that's what they have in mind.

And those guys with the tacticool shotguns? They were probably shooting 3" slugs or buckshot.
 
One other consideration if you are on a tight budget, find out the price and availability of the ammo you plan to shoot. I shoot a 12 gauge and my wife shoots a 20 gauge. I can buy shells cheaper for the 12 than the 20. In my area not much of a selection available of cheaper 20 gauge ammo, especially non toxic for waterfowl. When my 12 year old daughter got her hunting license, I started her on a fitted 12 gauge. She just shoots lighter loads.
-Ken
 
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